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I am just getting into fabricating stuff and was wondering what kind of saws you use to cut steel? I have a rip saw that works well, but I was wondering if I could use my 10" table saw or 10" miter saw for cutting steel? These saws I'v had for years and only used them for cutting wood. Can I just get a blade for cutting steel? I would like to use the miter saw for making nice accurate miter cuts. What kind of blade would you recommend if I can do this? I would be cutting 2" square tubing, 3/4-1" angle iron...nothing too big.
Get a abrasive cut off saw! You would have to get an abrasive blade for the wood saws. The woods saws arent designed to cut metal. You can pick up an abrasive cut off saw for around $100-200 depending on brand If your miter saw is a cheeper brand and you can find an abrasive blade to fit it you could use it and it would be easier to set the angles. But I would recomend the abrasive cut of saw for metal.
PS I have used my dewalt miter saw to cut alluminum that was a 1/4" thick with a 60 tooth carbide blade and slow feed thru.
I use my Milwaukee portable band saw the most.
Sometimes I use thin cut off blades on my 4" side grinder.
Tough to get at places I use air operated die grinder.
And recently I've seen people use 4" metal cutting blades put on portable grinders. These are great because they even work on the battery operated units...for remote places.
When angles are important, or if I'm doing alot of cutting, I use the stationary band saw.
i use a cut off saw quite a bit for smaller flat stock, box and angle iron sometimes i use a cut off wheel on my 4 1/2" angle grinder, it works great for cutting things you cant take to the saw, and a oxy acetelyne torch for the larger peices
They make nice skill saws that cut metal now and they work real well..My freind has one and he can go through 1/4" with it..In welding shop we had a slow rpm carbide toothed saw on a bench that was kinda like a chop saw it would go through anything.
99f350sd, i agree on the cold saws vs abrasive cut-off saws, more accurate and cleaner cuts without the nasty burr. Stationary bandsaws are ok for their intended use also. On large tubular exhaust (4 1/2") tips the and angles the bandsaw blade will wave making tight butt joints difficult. To do fab work you really need all three plus plasma, Bridgeport, lathe,Tig and Mig. Carl......o&o>...
Deffinetly get yourself a bandsaw. I operate a small metal fab shop and wouldbe lost with out my horz. band saw. The steel cutting "chop saws" do come in handy at times. The best are the Dewalts that will take a Carbide tipped blade, but the blades are $100.+++ dollars. I currently have a 9x16 inch "Rong Fu" brand band saw. I'm sure overkill for what your looking for, but they do offer smaller machines. They are also the company that makes all of the machines for: Grizley;Jet;some Wilton;Delta to name a few "Name" brands. Don't waste your money on the name, use it towards a better bigger machine. I started with one of those 4x6 band saws and sold it after it got too small to do the work(didn't take very long) but it is still in use today after24 yrs of age. Just my .02 Good luck.
stumpy2
2K1 SD,EC,4X4,5.4,AT,4;10,3.5"LIFT,33'S, TRUE BLUE
Beemer has the right idea. there wouldn't be much you couldn't do with those goodies. I cant count how many times I have had to use the all the same equipment at my work.
a cold cut saw w/ coolant would be the best. but the cheap way out would be to get an abrasive blade for your 10" miter saw. if you do, don't get the cheap thin ones get a nice name brand one and you will be fine. also make sure you remove the saw dust bag and any plastic parts (but not the blade gaurd) that will get burned up or melt.
I wouldn't try it on a table saw. you will be asking for trouble.
I think that circular saws designed for wood don't have sealed bearings like a chop saw does and bits of metal will get in there and **** it in short order.
thats ok, I don't think SkiDoo was talking about using circular saws. besides, that isn't very safe to use a circular saw for cutting metal. same principle as the table saw. you dont want to move the metal into the blade.
SkiDooHauler, one big word "DON'T" do it! Table saws and miter saws for wood spin the blade 52-5,400 rpm, the abrasive chop saws spin at 3,800 rpm and the cold saws (dry) spin 1,900 rpm. The next step up and the best is a wet cold saw, 200, 400, 600 and 900 rpm, some models vary in rpm's. There's a reason why the rpm's are slow, it's called heat and how long the carbide blade lasts as they aren't cheap. What about your safety abd the others around you? Thats why we have so many warning labels on new power tools. Yes we all have bent the rules on safety a bit but your flat breaking the laws of physics. Now i'm done, be careful and build things, Carl........o&o>.............
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