rear main seal
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
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rear main seal
Hi,
I am changing rear main seal on 1981 f 150 inline 6 w/ speed manual tranny. I pulled rear m. seal and there does not appear to be any wear or tear. It is rubber. Could it have shrunk over the years? Or perhaps lost its shape. i was losing 2-3 qts of oil per day
Your thoughts please
I am changing rear main seal on 1981 f 150 inline 6 w/ speed manual tranny. I pulled rear m. seal and there does not appear to be any wear or tear. It is rubber. Could it have shrunk over the years? Or perhaps lost its shape. i was losing 2-3 qts of oil per day
Your thoughts please
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
I'm in the same boat... I'm losing quarts a day. I got a new rear main seal, already changed the valve cover gasket and am picking up an oil pan gasket. How hard is it to replace? I'm very handy, just never done a rear main before. What tools will I need besides basic wrenches and sockets?
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
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From: Southern Arizona
If your engine is like most of the 300 cid sixes I've seen, you will have to pull the transmission, bell housing and clutch and flywheel. This gives you access to the one-piece rear main seal. Remove and replace the seal and then replace all of the stuff you had to remove. The pan doesn't have to come off. Be sure that it's the seal that is leaking because replacing it is not an easy job. Good luck!
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
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From: Southern Arizona
Once you get to the rear main seal, you can remove it with a sharpened screw driver with a twenty degree bend on the last 1/2". Tap it under the metal lip of the seal and pry out. You do have to remove the transmission and flex plate on the AT equipped six; it has the one-piece seal as well. I recommend you rent a transmission jack for the job if you don't have one.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
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From: Southern Arizona
Incidentally, quite often a badly leaking rear main seal is a symptom of loose main bearings. The increased motion of the crankshaft due to the increased bearing clearance will exceed the seal's ability to conform to the crankshaft. You may want to put an accurate oil pressure gage on your engine and check the pressure. If it is low, you may want to consider checking the mains especially if yours is a high mileage engine.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
That'd be basically rebuilding the engine. I don't have time to do something like that right now. I'm just going to replace the seal and make a long trip. After that, I'll probably look into rebuilding the whole engine then.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
I got half way through it today, what a pain in the ***! I don't think that tranny's been moved since in was installed in '84. The tranny cooler lines busted off, so, I'm just going to install rubber lines with bard fittings and clamps. Luckily, those were the only things that broke. I did gouge my knuckle damn near to the bone on the flywheel while removing it. That metal piece that goes between the block and flywheel is a nightmare. On another note, the rear main seal was destroyed. The metal wire was showing through all the way around and there was a couple of 1/4" sized chunks missing.
A lift and ALL my tools would make this much easier. I'm doing it on the ground with my basic hand tools... sockets, wrenches and screwdrivers. I don't have any extensions or anything fancy. All in all, I'd say it's a solid one day job... two days for a first timer. Manual trannies are so much easier!
A lift and ALL my tools would make this much easier. I'm doing it on the ground with my basic hand tools... sockets, wrenches and screwdrivers. I don't have any extensions or anything fancy. All in all, I'd say it's a solid one day job... two days for a first timer. Manual trannies are so much easier!
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
I just finished the install of my new rear main. Went to start the truck and it's acting like the battery's dead. I tried to jump it, but the same symptom. I had the battery disconnected the whole time I was working on it. Could the starter be f'ed up? Could the battery be DEAD (un-rechargable dead)?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 390
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From: Rose City, MI
did you get it started yet? sounds weird but a day after i finished putting my new rear main and cluthc kit in my starter froze up. If it still acts like the battery is dead take it to an automotive store and have it tested. might also have the battery tested. if that doesnt get it goin let us know surely we can help ya get it going again.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
I got 2 new batteries, so I know that wasn't it. The starter was turning the motor over, just not fast enough. It sounded VERY labored while turning over. Is that was your starter was doing also?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 390
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From: Rose City, MI
did that for about 2 months then it wouldnt even turn. so i was parking on hills for a few days till i had time to change the starter. autozone has a lifetime warrenty starter for like 46 dollars plus 30 dollar core. I would take the starter out and get it tested. most parts stores can test them for free.
Good Luck with it, Ben
Edit: how many cca is the battery you are useing?
Good Luck with it, Ben
Edit: how many cca is the battery you are useing?
Last edited by 85F_150driver; Aug 27, 2004 at 06:53 PM.