My ride is 24 years old and besides the door cable ends I've had to replace the plastic "lock pawls" on the front doors. They attach the door lock to the lock rod. When it breaks the door lock turns but does nothing. Better get a set on hand now before you need them. There is a right hand/left hand part and most sale them in pairs.
I found mine on ebay, 5 pairs for about $5

 

 

That should do it. Easier and cheaper than changing the cable.

 

 

Yesterday we got the door open from the inside, but that was a one shot deal because one of the inside cable ends broke after we opened it, although I was unaware of it. The door was never opened from the inside for 25 years because the upholstery panel was covering it. Confirmation that age is a big part of these failures.

Good thing I got the license plate housing/handle assembly removed because I ran out of time and shut the door. Today it wouldn't open from the inside handle so I had to fiddle around trying to open it from the latch from the outside license plate opening.

Still didn't get the assembly out yet, looks like the power lock actuator (riveted in) has to come out at the same time, with the inside door handle. Ran out of time, although this time I unbolted the latch and propped the door shut.

The cable ends seem to be the ticket, but the cable cover needs to be thinned down for the ends to slide on easily.

 

Got the latch/cables/door lock actuator assembly removed today. Come to find out that it appears that rather than drilling the rivet, the lock actuator can be pried off the bracket, but don't know how difficult it would be to push it back on. I'm going to try some kind of alternative fastening than the rivet because I don't have the rivet tool that's required.

Once I get right door done I'm going to do the left door because it'll just be a matter of time before those cables fail too.

 

You don't need to remove the actuator to replace the cables. I didn't with mine. It' ain't an easy fix, but it can be done. Also helps to remove the license plate mount from the door to access the lock mechanism

 

 

Having the same issues with a 94 E250 XL Extended.

First main side door wouldn't open from outside.
Then main back door wouldn't open at all.

Went to Piknpull and checked ford vans for similar latches and cables.
Weirdly, the latches and cables had been stripped out of every van (21) from 92 to 05ish except 1 van.
For something that's "not a common problem", that's really weird.
Luckily that van had arrived week or so before, so I pulled out the cables and latches on back door.
Pulled the side door complete and went on my merry way.
Come to find out when I get home, actuators have to be drilled out because they're riveted in for some reason.
Get the back door system apart, kinda get it fixed, but no way to rivet it back in.

At this point I'm pretty F-ing over it.
Definitely wish I found this thread a week ago. Would have saved me some cash and time.

Went to repair shop (Stereo / Tint / Electronics), they removed the guts of old cable system and actuators.
Replaced with aftermarket rod style, works great. They did both doors, cleaned up and greased latches, new actuators with Rod style connections, $60 a door, 4 hours $120 done and gone.
Stoked my doors all work!

1 week later, Today, both Side and Rear secondary doors won't open.
I can feel that the bottom latch releases, but not the top.
I'm guessing this is yet another cable problem?

Going to pull doors apart tomorrow and see if it can just be fixed with those billet pieces.
I'll try to take pictures of what I find and the fix that works.

 

You can use a 1/4-20 fasteners instead of the rivet to secure the actuator bracket. But as I mentioned in another post, after I drilled out the rivet and removed the assembly, I noticed that the bracket had slots so the actuator could have been removed with the bracket remaining in place.

 

Had to get on the road and didn't order parts until just now.

I did figure out with the secondary doors you can pop the ball out of the handle and just pull on it that way.
At least get your doors open until parts arrive and you have time to fix it.
That info would have been super useful couple weeks ago so passing it on.

Ordered a set today, everyone was out of Dorman, so I had to try a smaller company, will let y'all know how they fit and if they need adjusting.
Set I ordered is supposed to be for ALL rear and side doors, we'll see.
This is set I ordered, Ten bucks for everything,and free shipping at this time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ford-F-...72.m2749.l2649

 

Just a reminder that you have to shave the cable sheath a little for those ends to slide on. Otherwise you'll struggle to get them on. Other than that they work really well.

 

Hey gang, this just happened to me last night. Is this just the cable I order from NAPA, or an assembly I get from the dealer? I've been to the pull-a-part enough here in Nashville to know that none of the econolines have rear doors at all, or are stripped of parts.

Thanks for your help!

Ben

 

What cable ? You can get them in pairs on RockAuto.com Probably a LOT cheaper than your dealer.

 

Sorry! Been a blitz of a day. Right side rear door, 2000 E350. Searches of youtube and this forum leads me to a Dorman part 926-111, the metal collar that replaces the plastic part that breaks, but when I go to their site, they don't have a part number for a right rear door. So, I'm a bit confused on how to proceed.

Can anyone lend guidance? The metal part that replaces the broken plastic part at the end of the cable where it attaches to the door opening mechanism seems to be the way to go, but are the Dorman parts universal?

Thank you for any and all advice.

Ben