shocks as traction bars
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: redding, ca.
shocks as traction bars
Has anyone heard of using shocks as traction bars to get rid of wheel hop? If so, how could you mount it to an 8.8. It sounds more forgiving than solid bars if you don't have it adjusted right.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
well here is a link about them from rancho, other companies make them to appearently, I tried to find a pic of a set but couldn't find any that were on a vehicle, I personally don't know how they work but have seen what you are talking about.
http://www.gorancho.com/faq/kicker.stm
http://www.gorancho.com/faq/kicker.stm
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From: iowa
I'm with you on that one pro, they will slow down the violent twisting but I think they would only help with slowing down damage to suspension pieces but not really help with the traction issue or that is my take on it, and not worth the money, if you are good at fab, and have a couple of extra shock laying around it might not hurt but sure wouldn't spend that much money on them.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: redding, ca.
What can I do to stablize the rear end that doesn't cost $500? I have stock leafs with 4 in blocks and 2 in aal. I know blocks suck but that is what I have for now. On the 8.8 It has a flat mount on the pumpkin with holes in it. Is that for some kind of factory option I don't know about? I just want to make sure I don't spit a block in two feet of mud. Any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: USA
Chevy and some Dodge trucks, as well as the new Fords starting in '05 have the rear shocks staggered, one shock facing the front, one facing the rear, to help with axle-wrap. It's not going to be like having traction bars, but apparently the engineers feel that it does help. It would be a cheap experiment to weld on a pair of shock mounts on one side and buy one shock to see if it makes any difference...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by checkyoursix
What can I do to stablize the rear end that doesn't cost $500? I have stock leafs with 4 in blocks and 2 in aal.
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From: Rep. of Texas
Mine's comeing along, but its looking more like $50-$70, but I made a full bolt-on crossmember to mount them to. My trac-bars are only going to be a pipe though, very simple. Only reason its not finieshed is I dont have the heim joints or finished lifting.
Which brings me to my point. Using heim joints should add $20 alone. + $20 for pipe + $20 for 10' (shortest you can buy around here) of 1/4" x 6" to fab mounts and stuff, but you dont really need that, you can do it with other stuff. So at least $40 using heim joints.
Which brings me to my point. Using heim joints should add $20 alone. + $20 for pipe + $20 for 10' (shortest you can buy around here) of 1/4" x 6" to fab mounts and stuff, but you dont really need that, you can do it with other stuff. So at least $40 using heim joints.
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From: iowa
made mine out of 1-3/4" square tubing .110 wall, made the mounts on the rearend outof some scrape 1/4" plate, and a couple of ubolts,, bought the square tubing for just under $20 for 21ft, the front "heim joints" are actually three point tractor top link ends that you can buy at farm and home or other farm supply stores, and 4 bolts that fit them pushed into the square tubing and spot welded through holes I drilles in the tubing, and I made my cross member for mounting the fronts out of the same tubing which also serves as a front driveshaft loop for the rear drive shaft have less than $50 into them including the welding rod it took the weld them up, and had steel left over for other projects on the truck.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
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From: Senoia, GA
Originally Posted by checkyoursix
It sounds more forgiving than solid bars if you don't have it adjusted right.
maybe i am smokin something!
-cutts-
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
fishy not sure what you are trying to say but the problem with ladder bars, and leaf springs is they will bind up when the leaf needs to change length as it compresses, and such, one way is to put on a housing floater for the leaf perches, or I have seen guys take the slip part of a driveshaft, and use it just before the front link allowing the ladder bar to change length but not allow the rearend housing to rotate
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From: Back where I started...
I've seen some traction bars from James Duff that bolt on to your u-bolts, then to the frame. fairly easy, fairly cheap, and they don't hang down and drag like ladder bars, they go above the leafs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
Yea, solid ladder bars are fine for race cars but 4x4s need some sort of slip joint or shackle to allow the suspension to cycle. Anyways, although heims are the way to go he doesn't HAVE to use them if his budget is that tight. Flanged ends with junkyard u-bolts will do the trick too. Its obviously not the best way to do it, but like mentioned you can make some ghetto bars for virtually free that way.