shocks as traction bars
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Alberta
There is a guy around here that has 2 extra shocks on the rear of his rig. He has some mounts welded to the top of the diff that go straight up about a foot, then the two shocks are bolted up between that mount and one near the rear bumper, parallel to the ground. The shocks are basically frame height. I havent really talked to him about the setup but his truck is a pretty serious machine (Everyone calls it "Baby" 65 chebby with 44" boggers, 454, front and rear winches, 4 link front end) He obviously knows about heim joints so maybe there is something to the shock thing?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Again, that type of setup would help slightly, but not much at all. All that setup would do would be to dampen some of the shockload, not prevent axle wrap. He drives a chevy so that should show you what he knows anyways 
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Mission Viejo Ca.
The shocks you've talked about are also know as "kicker shocks"
Were big in the 80's
But they will not stop wheel hop, just buffer it.
Traction bars are the best way to "STOP" wheel hop!
And are easier on your truck!
Were big in the 80's
But they will not stop wheel hop, just buffer it.
Traction bars are the best way to "STOP" wheel hop!
And are easier on your truck!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: redding, ca.
So if I fab up some mounts to weld to the axle do I need to drain the fluid or do I just start welding? Also, what about using shocks from the middle of the traction bar to the frame. I think I saw a Pro Comp setup like that before. Is there an advantage to this? Is there a certain length the traction bars should be? I only want to build these things once.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
shocks from the middle of tractoin bars to frame? not sure what good that would do. For welding I didn't drain my fluid when I did it but I would pull the vent plug or fill plug just to make sure that as the air in the rear end expands from heat it doesn't force the seals out.
As far as length if you are building a "slapper type" then I would probably go the same length as the spring eye is from the center of the axle, on ladder bar type mine are 50" long, I have seen them as long as 60", the ones on cars are usually 33", the longer they are the more weight you will transfer to the rear axle when you launch. And mine probablly don't count because I am using coils on the rear end, you can click on the hyperlink for the 88 ranger in my sig, and there is a pic of mine on there to see how they are setup if it would be any help.
As far as length if you are building a "slapper type" then I would probably go the same length as the spring eye is from the center of the axle, on ladder bar type mine are 50" long, I have seen them as long as 60", the ones on cars are usually 33", the longer they are the more weight you will transfer to the rear axle when you launch. And mine probablly don't count because I am using coils on the rear end, you can click on the hyperlink for the 88 ranger in my sig, and there is a pic of mine on there to see how they are setup if it would be any help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Well, if the shocks were on a horizontal plane from the lateral force of the axle wrap (which would put it roughly in line with the frame) they'd actually act as a slipjoint, although a weak as hell slipjoint that a decent motor would be able to break. I wouldn't bother with a slapper style of "traction" bar either. Go ladder bar. If you keep your truck on road you can even go solid. Otherwise, go to sams offroad and look at their ladder bar with a shackle and copy it, a zillion other guys have.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
From: Florida Hill Country
If a fellow is hell bent on putting a bunch of shocks in the rear, build a prerunner and be done with it. 
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville United States o
Well, I would think the BEST way to get rid of axle wrap would be to 4link the suspension and have a panhard bar installed. Next!
Speaking of the kicker shocks, yeah 80's were fun to look back at - now its 2003 and there's a hell of a lot better conceptual ideas that will work a lot better. Traction bars will be your best option.
Speaking of the kicker shocks, yeah 80's were fun to look back at - now its 2003 and there's a hell of a lot better conceptual ideas that will work a lot better. Traction bars will be your best option.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
Originally Posted by cryptonik420
Well, I would think the BEST way to get rid of axle wrap would be to 4link the suspension and have a panhard bar installed. Next!
but realistically the average person has no clue (including me) how to even begin a 4 link setup with all the geometry involved to get the best results!
so realistically speaking this
would be the best! very simple and easy to make yet all the clearance you could ever want!
-cutts-
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
That is a simple and easy way of going about it, with the not so small exception that welding on your cast centersection is more than tricky...especially when you consider the forces exerted on that single steel link tied to cast iron. I know professional welders that shrink from welding on cast, not to speak of high shock bearing welds like that would be.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 2
From: central ohio
i was thinking of making my own by taking angle iron, bolting to the top of the spring pack (off of the u-bolts that clamp the leaf pack to the axle housing) then running a large turnbuckle from the angle iron forward of the axle and fastening directly to the frame. the only thing bad i can see with this is that the axle would twist one way or another depending on suspension compressing/extenteding. dont know that i really need them anyhow with a ranger, but sometimes at work i have free time to make b.s. projects of my own and this is one idea ive been rolling around inmy head.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
yes but it wouldn't be hard at all to move it from the centersection and make a bracket welded to the axle tube! a lil bit of creativity and ingenuity!
-cutts-
-cutts-
