I can't get my oxygen sensor to budge.

Computer's throwing code 41 (lean, no HOS switching), and I get no voltage from the sensor itself. I have a brand-new Bosch sensor to put in, but I can't get the old one out. I've done WD-40, run the thing for several minutes at 2000RPM, and tapped on the sensor bolt with a wrench to try and loosen it.

Any suggestions how to get this thing out?

Thanks.

 

If you have room, back up the boss with hammerhead or something heavy & tap on other side. If that doesn't work, heat boss with torch.

 

Try shocking it. Heat it up and then spray with cold water.

 

i'd also try some good penetrating oil and a socket with 2 foot extension

( gotta use some elbow grease)

 

Thanks, Rancheroracer. I skipped the hammer and went straight for the torch, which worked. Amazing the amount of heat it took. Must have spent 20 minutes total with the torch. The first few turns required soo much force! I was using my foot on teh end of a 10" pipe wrench, and pushing myself UP the inclined driveway. Given the foot feel, I figure I was pushing with as much force as if I'd stood on the thing (all 160lbs of me). It left imprints on the palms of my hands where I was pulling back on the front crossmember.
I really hope the new sensor works. It got bumped once and scuffed a little during installation. The new sensor wasn't going in. The threads were starting to strip, so I reshaped the first thread with a file, and gave the boss another 5 minutes with the torch. Then, it actually caught for a few turns before it stopped again. I heated the boss until something went liquid. Proably the anti-sieze. Went in just fine after that. Thank goodness I don't have a swear jar. Might have cost me more than paying a mechanic. I've done valves, half-shafts, supercharges, radiators, subframes, diesel injectors, and this job is by far the most obnoxious. So much brute force on such a delicate part. Adjusting mechanical lifters on a vintange OHC Mercedes motor is cake! (and fun)

OT: I hope this post works. My ISP went wierd, so I'm dialed into the Unix cluster at school, browsing FTE via a text-only browser (Lynx) on a TELNET connection. Nerdly wild.

 

Zerocash & Woodman- Thanks for the help. Temperature shocking sounds like a good idea. Maybe heat the boss and then run water over the sensor. No room for a breaker bar. I did this sitting on all 4 29" tires. I'm thin enough I can slide myself underneath any part of the truck with 2-3 inches to spare. I did the transmission filter on my old Mercedes by parking it over a shallow ditch.
It got some WD-40 earlier. I don't usually combine WD-40 and open flames unless I'm also combining it with a wasp nest. Though there were a few errant mosquitoes and moths that came near my workspace ;-).
I can't wait to drive a truck without a severely retarded spark!

 

I had the same problem BigBlue88. I think this is a pretty nasty job, though I think the front axles on these things are a lot worse. I forced mine in but I know it didn't really have any good threads left in it. I was on a 1000mi trip and sick of getting 12mpg so I really didn't have time to play nicely with it. When it needs a new sensor I'm just going to get the Walker 2 into 1 pipe and not even bother to remove it.

 

you need some PB blaster and an O2 wrench. if you have trouble findinb an O2 wrench you can get one here(vw content but it's universal)


http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/pro...mber=T%2E88750

 

BigBlue88, you're welcome, what an ordeal! Low-side's idea sounds like a good one, I wonder if they make one for the V10. By the way, Corpsedub, what's a PB blaster/

 

pb blaster is like wd-40, but it works better and faster. Should be at your local Napa store.

 

Thanks, kinda like liquid wrench?

 

kinda..

http://www.pbblaster.com/

works very good

 

Thanks to all for help with my 02 sensor. O2 sensor cleared up computer code 41: "no HOS switching/LEAN". Runs noticeably better.
While I was at Advance Auto, I got some plugs as well; plain-jane Autolite 5125s. I've seen a few super-size resistor plugs for ricers, and I had to laugh a little when I saw the Autolites- they look just like lawnmower plugs! The real jaw dropper was when I got the old 5125s out.
#1:Brown deposits, pretty normal. #2: white, some heat blistering, barely more than hand-tight! Had to loosen the throttle bracket to get to it. #3: Tight, more normal than blistered. #4: White, not blistered. #5: White, scaly deposits, not really tight. #6: Buried under emissions junk, it wasn't quite hand tight! I thought the socket wasn't engaged until the thing came out of the block. Really white and blistered/scaly.
Some of the threads on the removed plugs were rusty. I puta drop of oil on each plugs threads just in case (bad idea? Runs fine.) I could tell a difference in the way the thing idled afterwards. Much stronger exhaust note (for a factory pipe...)
Coolant temp is solid as a rock. I think about a thousand miles of running lean roasted the plugs. When I get my hands on a timing light, I'll check that, too. If the same person who did the plugs did the dizzy cap, I should check that on general principle.

 

yeah you have to check the plugs every once in a while to make sure they are still tight in the 300's (4.9)

I read a thread where the guys were tring to come up with a solution to the spark plugs coming loose problem the other day after searching for something else

jim 89 F-150 4.9 160,000
99 F-350 7.3 120,000

 

duplicate post