I bought my 01 lightning with 30,000 miles 2 months ago.The truck already had these mods.So i dont have a clue what help the most or if any of them helped at all. i posted my best track time at the bottom. It was 65 and not a cloud in the sky when i ran.i ran my truck with and without the chip.To be honest it didnt really matter i ran about the same give or take a couple tenths.im runing nitto street tires.DO I NEED TO STRIP ALL THE MODS AND JUST START OVER? DO I NEED TO DYNO AND HAVE A NEW CHIP BURNED? WILL HAVEING A NEW CHIP BURNED GAIN ME 7 TENTHS LIKE I THINK MY TRUCK SHOULD RUN. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
Here's a list of the mods:

1. PSP 4 lb lower pulley blower%2bPulleys%2b%252899%252D04%2529" target="_blank">http://www.powersurgeperformance.net...+%2899%2D04%29

2. PSP Chip
http://www.powersurgeperformance.net...28All+years%29

3. Factory Tech Valve Body adn 4x4 transmission pan/filter
http://www.chikenearsengineering.com...lator_main.htm

4. JLP Ram Air Kit w/ K&N filter
http://www.johnnylightningperf.com/s...products_id=33

5. two sigle chamber flowmaste

6. boost by-pass kit

My times on a 65 degree night,not a cloud in the sky.
reaction: .7331
60ft: 2.1526
330ft: 5.9202
1/8 mile: 9.0073
1/8 mph: 79.82
1/4 mile; 14.0165
1/4 mph: 98.18

 

If you are running within 2 tenths with or without the chip, thats normal. Where do you live? How high in elevation is the track you are running at? Do you have any stock parts that you could swap back on to see if that actually does slow you down? The truck is "slow" for the mods, especially the pulley, but when was the last time it had a good tune up? It might be time for some plugs and with a 4# pulley, you might consider going one range colder. Both my and a good friends truck (99L) have had very similar mods and out trucks ran in the 13.50 range at right around 100mph. But we also had much better 60' times and thats where alot of ET is made. Is there any tire spin @ all upon takeoff? Are you stalling up against the converter? How much dragstrip time have you had? Not to say you dont know how to race but different drivers can have a big impact on the situation also. I'd change the plugs, its probably past time being you have a pulley and go to the track. Maybe have an experienced friend drive it for a pass or two and see if you get any better results. There could be a million things that could be affecting your performance and like I said before, take it to a high performance shop that has a dyno and drop a few hundred bucks to have a pro fiddle with it. It will save you a ton of headache! Hope I didn't overwhelm you or come off as a know it all, but I have been playing the drag race game with my L for a few years now and just want to relay any info I can. Hope this helps out.

 

ive owned a couple other cars that ive raced at the srtip. i am experienced allthough i do get a little tire spin. are you and your buddies running slicks? my truck has denso it20's in it. i checked the ones i could get too and there fine.Should i get my chip reburnd?i have the stock pulley, should i put back on and remove mu chip? could my shift kit be hurting me?

 

If your transmission is shifting firm as every truck with a FTVB I've ever been in did, I doubt the trans has anything to do with the problem. My one friend and I run MT ET Streets that I believe hook better than the drag radials and tire spin is a big killer of elapsed time in a drag race but your MPH should be up. My friends truck has a cat back with no cats, an 85mm ProM meter with CAI and a 4# pulley and without the tires, (Toyo Proxy's) he runs just about what you do because of tire spin. With the ET's, he has run a best of 13.49 @ 100mph. Your mph is very close and you also have a better gear ratio, (what I believe is the best ratio for L's) 3.73, so you should be in the same ball park as he is.
The numbers that the magazines publish are done in corrected form. As in the vehicle actually runs a different number and they correct the number from the elevation that they are at to sea level. This is the same with the MPH. I dont know where you racing at, but elevation will have a big impact on your times, depending on how high the track elevation actually is.
If it interests you, as it would me, I would put all the stock parts back on for a night and bring all my other parts with me if possible and make a few passes with some different combinations, starting with stock and upgrading one part at a time to see the actual results of each part on your truck, and write down on your timeslips what was done for that pass and use them for comparison. If you have never been to the racetrack with the truck in its stock form, you have nothing to compare it too other than the numbers you see from others(magazines).
From the information that you have provided, I really dont think that that there is anything wrong with your truck. I see that your 60' time is "slow" for our purposes, which indicates tire spin, which would kill off some of your overall ET. You might be really surprised how much it does. The other truck used for comparison has 60 foots in the 1.95 range with the slicks on but with the street tires will 60 foot about the same as what you do. My truck would not go any better than 1.97 60' and no better than 13.23 with slicks and many mods. With an after market torque converter, it would 60' 1.73 for an improvement of .24 in the 60' alone. But it translated into a 12.70 for over a half second improvement in the overall quarter mile with no other mods at the time. I really think that tire spin is playing a big role in the poor performance out of your truck.
Get a good set of tires and see what that might do. 13.30's might be a little more than you might see but the mid 13's should be no problem with the parts you have. If you have the patience, run it stock for a "baseline" and then play with the parts. Good luck, hope this helps out.