curious if any of you have seen this or would consider running an aluminum coolant degas bottle...

Featured Products PSP Diesel LLC

Their deep dish oil pan looks interesting as well

No, I am not thinking of getting either of these, just stumbled across them, and figured I would share.

 

"the ultimate oil pan solution"... Was there a problem I wasn't aware of?!?

 

Mike is running the coolant bottle...

Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 2,482
Nicmike
Good responses so far for you Watty. The radiators have plastic caps on the top and bottom with plastic inlet and outlet. They do crack after as many years as we have on our trucks. Mine cracked on top. Leaked fluid EVERYWHERE while pulling a buddy's 5th wheel. I went with an all aluminum replacement so I would not have to ever worry about it again. Like kcb said, check the degas bottle for cracks on the bottom first.

If you will keep the green coolant, you will need to be diligent about checking it periodically with the test strips. Many of us have switched to the red ELC (CAT/EC-1 rated) coolant that does not need test strips. Many threads on that in the 7.3L forum.

 

@run6.0run You seen these? Thoughts?

 

Apparently there is a market for Aluminum Bottles, even Mishimoto is starting to work on one...

6.0l | Mishimoto Engineering Blog

I just read through a blog where they are looking onto making the bottle a two piece design, so it can be taken apart for cleaning. They are also looking into having a sight glass and an attachment point for a pressure gauge or sensor.

It could end up being a cool piece!

 

You might post this in the 6.0l section as well and get some good input. I can also tag a couple others.

@Maxium4x4 @Sparky83 @acf6 @WatsonR

 

It would need to have a sight glass before being a good purchase in my opinion. What 6.0 owner doesn't glance at their coolant level everytime that hood is open.

Plus, that $400 buys 10 plastic degas bottles - that's a hard sell

 

True, but the 6.0 section is a place I don't trod too often, not unless I am looking for specific info. I like the crowd here, so here is where I play most often.

VERY GOOD POINT! Would a one time buy be worth it, or pay a forth the price and get a bottle that could last years without any issues...

 

To me it's not the longevity of the bottle, it's the lack of ease regarding a quick visual check for level as well as clarity/color to verify no lurking or impending issues.

Even with a sight glass, the amount of fluid you can see in that compared to a transparent bottle wouldn't be a very good indicator of fluid condition, only level.

 

You know this is not something I had thought of... Had I a need for one of these and the money for one I would have been interested if it had the level indicator but as you pointed out the level isn't the only thing that matters and I wouldn't want to remove it and take it apart to clean it just to find out how my coolant is.

 

They are saying that the tank will help remove heat, it doesn't see that much flow really.... and then making it hot enough to not touch without getting burned. There isn't significant air flow there to begin with and then that hot tank just transfers the heat to other components, the firewall, your hood, the intake tube feeding the turbo..... like the FICM isn't hot enough already!

For every one degree of intake air temp decrease, you gain horse power. In a gasser, its basically 1-1, why they ice the intake on high HP drag cars, I'm sure its more than 1-1 on a diesel and those drag cars, probably above 1-5.... why they sell cold air intakes, most of them just don't get enough cold air exposure.

It might help with cold starts the next morning or maybe not have to scrape the drivers side windshield.

removing heat is great, but the heat has to go somewhere and in this case.... probably to all the other components that surround the tank. If I drove around with no hood... it would look cool!

And the oil pan.... someone shoot there oil pan with an infer red thermometer.

thanks for the tag Bently

 

No problem, a solid and informative post.

 

IF it had a pressure and fluid level senser bungs I could hook up an LED to monitor THAT would be worth $400.

 

Average for decent performance cars is right around 1.11%hp increase per 1* of temperature decrease (assuming no atmospheric or humidity changes), and that's on a naturally aspirated motor. Air density increases about 1.8% for every 10* of temperature drop.

I can't dig through all my notes to find the calculations regarding forced induction motors, but due to their operating physics they do indeed have a more substantial gain with temperature drops. We had a cold front move through Houston earlier last week and dropped it from 65-70 to the mid 40's. All I know is my Excursion went from chirping tires on a 6psi launch to smoking them through the intersection before the computer defueled for the shift. Something I am currently awaiting a tune revision to get rid of since the trans is more than capable of handling the power now

 

Were going to require a video of this after the tune revision.