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Yea, that one is easy to overlook. Poor airflow can kill a motor. Makes you look at your air filter differently doesn't it?
I got a bunch of people fired up about the intake issue a while back. IMO a turbo is pushing the air in so flow is going to happen one way or another. The design is good enough for all but the most serious of us.
I also am skeptical of manufacturer's claims. I once read a Summit catalog and added on 10hp here, 25 there, and so on. I got to 1,000 hp really quick and I didn't even have a block yet.
That's what makes this forum nice. If someone buys it and it is a piece of crud, you will hear about it here. If you can do it yourself for $10 instead of getting taken for $300 you will hear about it here. The sponsors of this site all have excellent reputations with the users I've known here. Many of them go the extra mile and drive and own these trucks as well.
One thing that helped me catch on was Steve Baz's website. http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html
Lot's of good info out there. Good luck and welcome to FTE.
just went to another site and found that iso has different guages for pre & post turbo -- do they read different -- i know that the last digital guage that i had was the wrong one for my vehicle and was reading appr 200 degrees high -- again makes you wonder what these guys are selling and if they really know what is going on or in it for only the money that we spend -- graham
has anyone put hood scoops on the e series cube vans in order to get more air to the intakes and also to help cool the engine compartment -- would assume they would have to be able to be closed during really bad weather but in hot weather could be open all the time and intake could be variable like the old air induction systems -- any suggestions as these vehicles really lack air when you boost the power -- not really such an issue on the f series as there is so much more room under the hood -- graham
I haven't done it myself but I have seen them on some ambulance packages.
makes a lot of sense from the air aspect -- e series have very closed in engine compartments and the turbo is right at the back by the engine cover with a heat shield over it -- scoops would send huge amounts of air past the engine and in theory would cool the back area and the turbo -- also you should be able to create ram air so that the intake gets all its air from outside the engine area -- any further suggestions -- graham
makes a lot of sense from the air aspect -- e series have very closed in engine compartments and the turbo is right at the back by the engine cover with a heat shield over it -- scoops would send huge amounts of air past the engine and in theory would cool the back area and the turbo -- also you should be able to create ram air so that the intake gets all its air from outside the engine area -- any further suggestions -- graham
Pistons, valves and turbo are cooled by oil not water.
Your oil temp will be way out of line before the water temp even moves.
International did not install a Diablo programmer on the engine.
Neither did Ford.
I drove over the road tractor trailer for 13 years.
Yes I have seen pistons with holes melted in them.
Yes I have seen turbos that were melted also.
I will not even go into what 400+ degree engine oil does or does not do.
GREAD:go to paulshp.com it is the only place that I found salvation and 150-200 degrees cooler on EGT's the high flow manifolds really do the trick I have tried a ton of different things costing me a lot of money so when I find something that really works I pass it on.
GREAD:go to paulshp.com it is the only place that I found salvation and 150-200 degrees cooler on EGT's the high flow manifolds really do the trick I have tried a ton of different things costing me a lot of money so when I find something that really works I pass it on.
went to site but dont know if i want to get into changing manifolds etc -- have 3 1/2 in pipe from turbo into a 4 in muffler(free flow-no curves only straight through) and 3 1/2 over axle and back to 4 in to tail -- might take pipe off over axle and move to front of axle with all 4 inch -- this might shorten the travel of the exhaust and keep temp down -- also looking at changing the waste gate in order to get more boost and to stop the opening of the waste gate too soon to increase performance -- also want to put the sensors on the turbo to make an engine brake but have to figure how to keep the convertor locked up so that the transmisson does not become damaged by lack of pressure to the disks -- any thoughts -- graham
well b\d makes a 3 position torque converter lockup switch that will help with that problem 1st position allows the converter to lock up at a designated rpm,2nd position lets the trans operate normally,3rd position allows manual lockup of converter but the turbo is going to get a bit hotter with the converter locked and getting into the gas b\d explained this one to me the reason given was no slipping of converter engine is working a bit harder I really like the results of the manifolds I have a 4" turbo back bassani exhaust straight pipe it cooled egts down at idle and while driving but not a significant amount hope this helps.
I tried the b\d 3 position converter lock up and it's a great unit but I found that my converter just couldn't handle it,the bts converter loves the lockup and it can't hurt the converter since it's basically bullet proof.I don't know how far you are planning on going with your trucks performance but I had to go with the manifolds after the ts injectors were installed it was getting real hot as for the wastegate I have a banks bighead and get around 27lbs of boost,I must honestly say that I don't know a lot about blocking the wastegate or modifying it beyond that but it seems like if you blocked it off and increased the performance if that is the result of blocking the wastegate I would have to think that more heat would be involved hope this helps.
I have the 85hp tune in mine and I can get 1450 before I get into 3rd gear. Mine is an automatic. It will stay there for a couple of seconds and then will start to fall. Should I be concerned? I can't believe it gets that hot that quick.
i do hope that you have a pyro and it sounds like you do because you know the temp -- dont know if your pyro is before or after the turbo but if it before then you are at max before meltdown of the cylinders and if you are after then you are definetely hurting the engine -- after turbo you are allowed 1000-1100 max but if you have a boost guage then you have to also monitor that as this also increases the internal temp -- at 1000 degrees and 20 lbs boost you are ok as the internal temp is at 1300 degrees but if you boost increases to 25 then you have to reduce your temp by 50 to compensate for the 5 extra lbs of boost -- if you pull 30 lbs boost then you have to take temp down to 900 to keep you internal temp at 1300 (900 plus 100 for extra boost plus 300 degrees for internal temp) -- hope this helps but you have to keep the temp down or you will cook the pistons at aluminum starts to melt at about 1450 degrees --
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