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have a 2000 E450 Super Duty with Powerstroke -- pull up through a lot of mountain passes with loads nearing max gvw and altitudes in 4-5000 ft range --- cant find proper information in regards to limits on egt's -- currently run at 900-1000 with 10-17 lbs boost -- some shops tell me it is ok to go higher with temp and other tell me this is already max -- any help -- have diablo program in but egts about the same just the buildup is faster -- graham
It depends on where you're taking the temp reading from--pre turbo (usually in the drivers exhaust manifold) is higher and post turbo (in the elbow going to the exhaust) is usually quite a bit lower. not sure about a 7.3, but those temps for a 6.0 would be excellent pre turbo temps. I think the difference is to add about 250 for post turbo temps. so depends on where your probe is--post turbo and those temps would be dangerous--Pistons is what you really have to worry about tho.
I have the 85hp tune in mine and I can get 1450 before I get into 3rd gear. Mine is an automatic. It will stay there for a couple of seconds and then will start to fall. Should I be concerned? I can't believe it gets that hot that quick.
I have the 85hp tune in mine and I can get 1450 before I get into 3rd gear. Mine is an automatic. It will stay there for a couple of seconds and then will start to fall. Should I be concerned? I can't believe it gets that hot that quick.
according to deisel shop in vancouver bc with post terbo pyro which i have you can add 300 degrees so long as your boost is under 20 lbs and you add 10 degrees for each lb of boost after 20 -- so this is some help but i also need to know what the max temp is for the engine before damage can result -- any more help would be great --
The pistons start to melt at 1250 and the turbine in the turbo starts to soften at 1270.
If you like your motor, keep it under 1200 degrees pre turbo or 900 post turbo.
It does not make any difference if you are talking a 6.9, 7.3, Power Stroke 7.3, Power Stroke 6.0 or a 14 liter 600 Cummins.
The amount of boost does not change where the metal starts melting.
almost impossible to keep under 900 on pyro (post turbo) -- when i am pulling hills with a load i am down in the gears and rpm up but to keep it under does not work -- 900-1000 is really soft pedalling and truck is actually designed to use the power -- my 1988 - 7.3 non turbo always ran at 1200-1300 degrees on these hills but the pyro was in the manifold and this never hurt the engine -- i just sold it with 654000 kms or 400000 miles and it still is going strong -- water temp must also influence the overall temps -- more suggestions
Go to banks performance and click on know your gauges. There is a lot of useful info on the boost and pyrometer there.
Fire Rooster
went there and got more info about pre & post turbo positioning of pyro probe -- also called international who manufactures engine and they do not even keep temps on this engine for pyro & turbo temp so this really makes me wonder who is giving the correct info -- i do know that with thousands of these trucks on the road and 99 percent without pyro etc and most people driving them would no doubt load them and just drive them without even any regard for overdrives etc it make we wonder how serious this problem could possible be -- i guess if your business is to sell turbos and guages and other equipment in order to make money then i guess they can say anything -- international doesnt seem to concerned -- any more info -- anybody actually ruined an engine or turbo -- graham
Forged aluminum will melt at 1250-1300 degrees, but it's like putting a pot of water on the stove...the stove is hot enough to boil the water, but you still have to wait for the water to get hot enough. Not really something you need to worry about unless you stay above 1300 for an extended period.
The turbine wheel is made of Inconel...similar to your pyrometer probe, which has a pour point around 2900*F and is calibrated to 2300*F. (pre-turbo). I can't imagine a PSD being able to make enough heat to melt it...but what do I know.
Forged aluminum will melt at 1250-1300 degrees, but it's like putting a pot of water on the stove...the stove is hot enough to boil the water, but you still have to wait for the water to get hot enough. Not really something you need to worry about unless you stay above 1300 for an extended period.
The turbine wheel is made of Inconel...similar to your pyrometer probe, which has a pour point around 2900*F and is calibrated to 2300*F. (pre-turbo). I can't imagine a PSD being able to make enough heat to melt it...but what do I know.
this makes sense -- the engine is cooled and the water temp guage does not move at all toward the hot side ---my old truck had a pyro in the manifold and constantly ran at 1350 when pulling some hills and nothing happened to that engine -- maybe i should move the pyro to the manifold side of the turbo and track the temp there as apparently there is a 200-300 degree difference but it gets less as the temp rise -- any more suggestions -- graham
went there -- info about the same in regards to temp on pre or post turbo -- they are also in the sell more product business and who knows -- they are only concerned with their products in regards to engine programs and transmission shift programs -- they did make some sense though in regards to the amount of air going into the engine and how that would raise exhaust temps when you are really througing the fuel to the system -- the original ford intake really does suck so this could be an area that can be improved on to great extent -- graham
Yea, that one is easy to overlook. Poor airflow can kill a motor. Makes you look at your air filter differently doesn't it?
I got a bunch of people fired up about the intake issue a while back. IMO a turbo is pushing the air in so flow is going to happen one way or another. The design is good enough for all but the most serious of us.
I also am skeptical of manufacturer's claims. I once read a Summit catalog and added on 10hp here, 25 there, and so on. I got to 1,000 hp really quick and I didn't even have a block yet.
That's what makes this forum nice. If someone buys it and it is a piece of crud, you will hear about it here. If you can do it yourself for $10 instead of getting taken for $300 you will hear about it here. The sponsors of this site all have excellent reputations with the users I've known here. Many of them go the extra mile and drive and own these trucks as well.
One thing that helped me catch on was Steve Baz's website. http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html
Lot's of good info out there. Good luck and welcome to FTE.