Sounds good...you can always compensate for poor flowing heads through the cam...to a point.

Even better..scrap the emissions...send me 275...and I will send you my mild ported 70 351w heads... .

As a thought, you can still get gt40p heads last time I checked for $520, brand spanking new with larger valves, bowl clean up, and valve job, with springs good for .550" lift...little extra if you need the emission port drilled. If your interested I can try and find the company, I can't remember them off the top of my head....the info is somewhere around here. I mention this because you haven't purchased headers yet so it would be a wash, and mild port work and springs, valves, valve jobs, money wise add up real quick in these parts. I also used to have an e-mail for a fella that would port a set of e7 heads to flow at .5 lift 219 int/180 exh, he wanted $500 and that included comp springs good for .550 lift and I talked him out of the core charge. I can get that information as well, or pix of my D0OE heads...mr. moderator mustanggt221 this is not a solicitation...haha...

Ah we don't live in a perfect world...gotta do what ya got to do...you never know, you might be able to achieve some decent numbers with the ported e7 or gt-40's or what ever you put on it...if you get the right tune and cam selected...big cubic inches and smaller ports that thing should have some nice throttle response. later

 

Well...I don't like the idea of the GT-40P's because it requires the special headers and the heads are not as cheap as I wish they were. It makes me have to get new headers if I decide to upgrade to the AFR's...I'd have to get the GT-40P's and stick with them. Funny you mention it because I was just talking with someone else about the engine and they mentioned that too

Would my stock 5.0's heads go on that 351 if they were checked and re-worked (they might not be much good with 104k mi so I would obv have them checked). I believe the only difference is the bolt holes between 302/351's E7's.

http://www.bouchersracing.com/services/headwork.html

Thats the website for the engine shop near my house, and those are the services they offer for head work.

I think it would work out really well if I could have my 302's heads cleaned up and re-worked for a couple hundred bucks...throw those on the 393/406 for a year or so and step up to the AFR's. The headers would work on both heads and I could put the edelbrock intake on the AFR's with the new throttle body I already have.

And it would be kinda funny if I had you suspended for that solicitation ....jus kiddin'

 

I am not so certain you would need new headers with the afrs, the p headers from what others have told me, that purchased them, commented that they can be used on standard heads just fine...and that the headers design, were they have the tubes coming at more of a straight shot out of the port, flow a little better.

Yeah bolt holes is the only difference. Check with that company you mentioned and get pricing on, new valves, three angle valve job, mild port work, springs good for .550 lift, new seals, set up and assembled, with the bolt holes enlarged and see what they say. I figured up a set of bare gt-40p heads and if I purchased all the parts and had the local machinist assemble and set valve height, it all came out to 450 including the $200 for the new bare castings, that didn't include three angle valve job or cutting the heads for larger valves, which is what you get with the gt-40p's I mentioned for 520. Not trying to sell you the gt-40p just using that as a price referrence for local work.

I priced having a set of e7 done locally, mild port,larger valves better springs, etc. and they wanted $400..with a mild questionable port job. Thats why I jumped on the set of D0's I purchased but flat lost interest in modifying my truck so they have just sit next to my computer for the past six months...did I mention they have the rockers? Haha just kidding.

Lemme know what they tell you, price wise, on getting your heads redone...you might be suprised and find purchasing a set elsewhere assembled and ready to bolt on would be cheaper...that was my experience hopefully yours is better. later

 

I just realized you wrote $2000 for the shortblock..is that with your block, no core, cast crank, cast or forged pistons?

 

I would have to ask more specifically...i was very general when I talked to the guy...as to exactly what that $2000 is getting me. I left it at...shortblock as a description...and just asked for a ballpark figure. The forged pistons were simply stated as $20 more per piston...and the assembly costs were not factored into that $2000. If it's gonna cost me like $600 to do the heads 1/2 arsed...then I will probably just forget it and get the AFR's. I am doubting I'll be able to use those stock 302 heads for $300-$400 bucks.


Post number 9,200

 

stick with hyperutectic pistons if you plan to drive your truck every day. forged pistons will tend to slap on startup untill the engine warms.

 

The slapping I don't mind as long as it's not doing damage to the engine, I've started mine in as low as -40 (but I had it plugged in). I would assume a race engine isn't really used in freezing weather but being in New England I get some cold winters (usually it doesn't get below 20 degrees but I've been in -40 in Maine before).

 

They put forged in the newer eninges offered today (have for some time now)...I can't stand the cold start up knock everytime you fire the vehicle up but what ya gonna do...with all that in mind..if they are willing to warrantly the engine as they have always done...I would suspect that long term use would be okay as far as any unusual wear over 100,000 miles...then again I dunno...I just like to post. later

 

I'll have to talk to the engine builder more about the forgen/hyper pistons...thanks. I guess for now the next step is figure out whats up with my current engine (mechanic coming on tuesday) and go from there...

 

Thought I would clarify, that article on getting 400 hp with an otherwise stock 302 and afr heads, was with the smaller 165's not the 185's that I wrote, so just imagine larger 185's and 393 cubic inches...wish I would win the lottery...might help if I played....good luck getting your engine fixed. later

Did I mention that a certain fella...me...had a set of D) heads for 270 and more likely than not that would be shipped, unless it was ridiculous? hahaha I bet your gonna edit this post.

 

I only have moderator duties in the GC, GAD, 87-96, and lightning forums

 

Oh...then I also have for sale....j/k...later

 

Newer forged pistons run with fairly tight bore/piston clearance so cold slap should not be a problem. I have forged pistons in my 428( and 390 before ) and have not had any noise concerns. IIRC the clearance was only .005". The larger bore would cause more slap than a small bore.
Sounds like fun, wish I could build one!!!

 

It is sorta fun...so far I'm not as thrilled as I'd like to be. It's a lot of money and you have to be so careful with the million decisions you've gotta make when building an engine. It would be a lot easier if I've done this before....but...9 months to a year ago I knew nothing about EFI and engines...with no one's help but the people of FTE and some of the books I got...I've taught myself a lot in the last 6-7 months. I still have a lot of things to iron out...but...I can only take so much info before I start becoming overwhelmed. I am going to figure out what's wrong with my current engine (hopefully we'll figure it out tomorrow with the mechanic) and I'll know if I actually have to get this new engine yet or not.

 

Just my .02 worth, stroke = TQ. TQ = HP, the relationship of tq to hp depends of the cam, induction, heads, and exhaust. Generally, smaller ports = more torque: larger ports = more HP. Either way, you want a hi-lift cam. The injectors and throttle body are a sophisticated carb. So bigger still means HP; smaller still means TQ.

If you want HP, you have to spin it faster - eat more gas
If you can live with gobs of torque keep it low - saves gas
Moreover, the harder you spin the engine, the sooner you will be doing this again
Torque is not a bad thing

Just so I know, I thought the 8.8 was stronger than the 9, true? Otherwise, Ford would have kept the 9 in the Fox body 'stangs. they already had a 9 that would bolt up. (Swaped one from a 77 T-bird to an 85 LX stang, no prob.)

But anyway, if you want more HP than TQ, go w/a hold-nothing-back Windsor spin it hard, run a stall converter, and suffer the mileage issues. If you want an engine you can control the power of, and upgrade later, I would get the 383 stroker, run reworked FoMoCo heads, stock intake, run a mild 302 cam, and live with that until you decide to go all out. (Stock was 302, right?) Also, I would get my valve train from Comp Cams, get the K-kit, use those springs, retainers, and locks, do a good 3-angle valve job, port & polish, cc your heads and run stock exhaust manifolds. Get a dual pattern cam, from what I understand, they sacrifice TQ for HP. Comp cams even has some Dyno chars so you can see how each cam will react. Just go to www.compcams.com and click on technical, you will see the link for the dyno charts. They are for a sbc 350, but you'll get the idea. They even have a tool that tells you the basic characteristics for each cam, just choose your make/engine family

Again, remember, the longer your con rods, the more TQ you will produce from a given engine

Hope this helps


P.S. - go with roller tip rockers min. Comp sells them too.