I have a 1992 Ford Ranger with 96,000 miles. For the past 6 months every once and a while it would not crank. I only drive it once a couple weeks so I just thought it was power related. I could jump it off and then it would be fine. Now however it won't even take a jump. The engine will rotate fully, but I lack that spark/gas to get it going.

I have changed the spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I have had the battery and alt. checked as well.

My check engine light was on about 7 years ago. A mechanic told me it was just a sensor that was bad and it was not worth fixing. Since then the light has bured out.

I am not sure if jumping it off was just dumb luck or it actually did something. I have good power to crank and rotate, just not enough to get it over that hill. An Autozone guy told me a crankshaft sensor, but it would be at least a $100 and not a sure thing.

I would like to do the work myself if I can get a grip on the problem. I live out a while so a tow truck bill would match my repair bill.

John
1992 Ford Ranger
4 cyl.

 

Welcome to FTE John! I'm afraid that's all I can say on the matter as I'm here more for help when I need it than to give it. But rest assured the fine folks here in Ranger forum will be along to help you in no time. Hope it works out quick! My 98 3.0 did that once but it was the battery...dead cell. Since you had yours checked, that's about all I can say.

 

Hey John,nice to meet you,hold up on that crank sensor.Try turning the key to the on position and listen closely for the fuel pump to buzz for a few seconds,If I understand you Its cranking over,spinning the engine,just not starting? the pump is in the gas tank,you may have to get someone to turn the key on while you listen.let me know if you hear it run,if not it may be the enertia switch,but more likely the fuel pump relay.P.S. the mechanic that told you not to fix the sensor is a dill-hole,Because now you don't have a light to tell you you have a problem,since the one sensor set the light off years ago,you may have had 10 other IMPORTANT sensors go out on you and contribute to your current situation.I would advise getting an OBD I code reader from wal-mart ($25) and read the codes and list them here.you can still read the codes even if the light is burned out,but you might want to put a bulb in it if you want to fix your truck right.My check engine light was on when iI bought my truck,and people said just put tape over it ,take the bulb out,it will be fine.WRONG! the truck never had much power or excelloration,for months and I finally read the codes.it said the throttle possition sensor was bad ($26) so I replaced it and OH MY GOD,it was like a new truck,it seems the sensor was not opening the injectors and I had to IDLE everywhere.and I drove for three months like this because people saie "dont worry about it". I no longer listen to idiots and fix things by the book. Oh, yeah,a repair book is your best friend.

 

I agree with VIN 95. You get a code reader and a Haynes manual and you should be able to fix most things by yourself, with maybe just a little help from us. Pull those codes and get back to us. Good luck!

 

I agree with the others, John, by all means get the computer trouble codes pulled & pick up a good repair manual. Any info you need not clearly covered in the manual, you can usually find on this forum. Sometimes I find the info here BETTER than the manual. IMHO

Around here, SW Va, Advance Auto & AutoZone use the Actron CP9150 scanner kit, which has the cables in it to pull codes for your year & model. You could call ahead to see which ones have the scanner & cables to do it.

If not, then an inexpensive code reader could be used. But in any case you need to find out what the computer has been unhappy with & post ALL the codes found.

It's really not wise to ignore the check engine light, some problems, if ignored, can lead to big replacement costs, to fix down the road. So I would take the time to put everything right, including replacing the CEL lamp if it's burned out.

When you first turn the ignition switch to "run", not start, all the pertinent warning lights should come on, then go out, during a self test. If the CEL comes on during the self test, it's ok, if not it's burned out & should be replaced.

 

i believe u can read them with a voltmeter if u have one u can use the paperclip trick and hook the voltmeter to the pos. bat terminal and the signal output slot of the eec test plug and count the pulses like u would the engine light

 

So, I went and picked up my code reader and plugged it in ready to listen and watch.

327 is what it told me. My code book and Haynes described that as EGR valve or sensor. So, I read on what I can do and it notes that this can not be done by a home mechanic. How frustrating!! At least Haynes paid me a compliment by referring to me as a home mechanic!!!

I am not that handy, and suggestions? I take it there is no way to bypass it so that I can at least start it once to get it to a shop? I also take it that this is a starting only problem since my truck never died on me?

I REALLY apprecite all of the kind words and advice from you all. I can use all the help I can get. You all are going to make a mechanic out of me yet!!

John
1992 dead Ford Ranger

 

I've never heard of an EGR problem keeping one from starting.this is news to me.did you listen for the fuel pump to buzz for a few seconds to see if the pump is coming on ?

 

Your only mistake so far was to buy the Haynes manual. Chilton's is much better, and doesn't give you all those warnings that you can't fix it yourself, they actually give you the info you need, most of the time. I have one of each for the Ranger, and I refer to the Chilton's most of the time. -TD

 

Well John, my manual says a code 327 is EGR (EVP/EPT) circuit voltage below minimum voltage (Sonic PFE) (1990 on)

So check the KOEO reference voltage at the DPFE connector. If your battery is good, the voltage not low, then the reference voltage at the DPFE connector should fall between 4.0-6.0 volts. If not, be shure the battery is good. If it's ok, look to the PCM for the problem, as it gererates this output voltage.

BTW, what part did your manual say you shouldn't/couldn't do????

Is this the only code you found????

I too have never heard of a EGR preventing an engine from starting.

 

Haynes told me right off that the home mechanic cannot fix or diagnoss (sp) the this situation. My friend advised that he thought they were reffering to doing it without a code reader. That was the only code that I was given by the machine, however I plan on doing it again to make sure.

I am pretty sure that I am hearing the fuel pump load upon turning the key.

Pawpaw, your comments about the battery continues to bother me. My battery is somewhat old, and the truck just sits there and it looks road hard and put up wet. It tested allright, but still keeps me wondering. Would the EGR situation be anything that is tied back to the battery? Since it can't jump off, does that nix any idea about that?

Once again, I appreciate all the comments from you all in trying to help me in getting my truck back on the road.

John Silk
1992 Ford Ranger, however....
size 9 sneakers, walking at this time

 

Simple test: pull the hose off the intake right at the throttle body, and spray a shot of starter fluid in there, and crank immediately. If it fires briefly, then your problem is fuel-related. If it won't even try to fire, then it's spark, and you can go back to that crank sensor. But don't just replace it, check it out first. I haven't had a chance to look at the Haynes manual to what the procedure is for that, but I will do so. Do you have a multi-meter? It's very useful for checking sensors and such, and you can get a cheapie for 10-12 bucks. -TD

ON EDIT: Looking throught the Haynes manual ran me up against that same 'ol stone wall: this procedure is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Go to the sticky at the top of the page in this forum, the one titled Technical Information. Scroll down to the entry titled, "2.3 Dis Ignition System Diagnostic" and follow the advice there for testing your ign. system. Good luck!

 

I agree with Dan,Put a shot of starter fluid down its throttle body and see if it hits at all. You can also use regular gas if you have a squirt can or bottle.careful not to flood it.