Hi all,

Looks like a helpful group here. I'm trying to help a friend with a '95 Ranger 2.3 (MT). Often it won't start with the starter motor, but it will start if we get it rolling and pop the clutch. Once it's running it seems to be fine, no check engine lights, and all is well.

Sometimes it will start, after trying for a while, then 'poof' it's running fine.

He replaced the crank sensor, but that didn't change it. I have done some reading to suggest the cam sensor is next, but I'm not sure I believe it... if it runs fine, how does it have a bad cam sensor? It just won't catch while the starter is turning it...

It reminds me of an old GM I had in '80s, it had an ignition control module that had a special mode for low RPM (cranking). ('83 Olds Omega, 2.5 4 cyl) When it was cold outside and the oil was cold it wouldn't start unless we roll started it. Would start fine the rest of the day... but first thing in the morning again, no start... Sometimes jump starting it worked, sometimes even with jumpers it still wouldn't catch. Finally we figured out it was the ignition module. Any ideas?

I'm an experienced DIY (and more) mechanic, but mostly with GM stuff, so I'm not sure how Ford lays out the ignition control logic.

Thanks
-Derek

 

If the starter is dragging this can cause that issue.

 

Hi,

Thanks for the suggestion. I somehow don't think the starter is an issue - if you heard it cranking, it really doesn't seem like anything is dragging, it cranks pretty fast. But I'm getting to the point where I'm willing to try anything...

-Derek

 

It has either DIS or EDIS, I think, for ignition. DIS=Distributorless Ignition System, E==??

Anyway, you can take the coil and the E/DIS module to a store for testing. Most FoMoCo ignitions have a two-stage deal where they supply full 12v to the coil(s) for starting, but cut it back for normal running, just like the dropping resistors of old. It is done with electronics inside the TFI on older trucks, and the E/DIS on newer, and the ECM controls it all in the later models. If it has a failure in the 'start' mode, it won't start. They are not very expensive[relative to a new truck], and may test good intermittently, just as the one you describe works intermittently.
If I were in your shoes, I'd be getting a timing light and having it handy to test for coil output when you crank it over and it doesn't start. If you don't have spark cranking, it could be that...
tom

 

Thanks Tom, we'll pull the ignition module next and have it tested.

Using a timing light does show spark during cranking, but maybe it's not getting the full voltage? Where would I put my voltmeter on the EDIS to see?

I was discussing the issue further with the owner and he said it's really the least reliable on short trips, and starting when it's been warm but sitting for 30 minutes. If it's hot, i.e. just turned off, it will start, and if it's cold it's intermittent, but it's the worst when it's 'warm'.

Anyone know what the resistance across the temp sending unit should be approximately? Just something else to check...

Thanks
-Derek

 

I can only relate that I owned an Escort that failed to start after it got to a certain temperature. Found out at the grocery store, complete with ice-cream...
The pickup coil in the distributor 'apparently' opened up at a certain temperature, and wouldn't fire the ignition. I waited 5 minutes or so, and tried it, and it started. Drove home, and eventually disassembled the distributor and replace the pickup.
The description provided makes me think that it is the same thing, a coil that is opening up at a specific temperature.
tom