Squeak Q please
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Centennial, CO
Squeak Q please
I have a squeak, sometimes when first starting. It seems to be from the left side of the engine compartment. (I can never get the hood up before it stops.) It seems to be less than engine speed, maybe 1/4. (That doesn't make sense to me.) It is not related to outside temp or engine temp. It only lasts for a few seconds, then stops. And it is always on startup only. Don't know where to start. 92 XL 5SPOD 4.0. ANt help is appreciated. Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Does it sound like a belt squeak or more mechanical?
When you say 1/4, do you mean that for every four revolutions of the motor, you get one squeak?
If that is the case, I would look to something driven by the belt like the radiator fan, which will be driven at a different RPM than your motor. Also, check the contact portion of the belt which might have something on it and squeak every time it hits one particular pulley. Does it change with the A/C on or off?
When you say 1/4, do you mean that for every four revolutions of the motor, you get one squeak?
If that is the case, I would look to something driven by the belt like the radiator fan, which will be driven at a different RPM than your motor. Also, check the contact portion of the belt which might have something on it and squeak every time it hits one particular pulley. Does it change with the A/C on or off?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Centennial, CO
It sounds like a metal to metal thing. I didn't think of the radiator fan... I'll check that out.
Yes, that's the 1/4 thing. I'll try to check it out with and without the AC. Usually, it ends in about 5 - 10 seconds.
Yes, that's the 1/4 thing. I'll try to check it out with and without the AC. Usually, it ends in about 5 - 10 seconds.
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
The reason it could be the radiator fan is that there is a viscous coupling that makes the fan turn faster when the radiator is puting off a lot of heat. Sometimes they squeak before they fail.
Naturally, there are a lot of things along the path of the belt that can cause a squeak, especially the idler pulleys and tensioner.
Also, the cam shaft sensor can cause a squeak which is more internal to the engine. I am not sure if this would squeak every fourth revolution or would be more constant.
Naturally, there are a lot of things along the path of the belt that can cause a squeak, especially the idler pulleys and tensioner.
Also, the cam shaft sensor can cause a squeak which is more internal to the engine. I am not sure if this would squeak every fourth revolution or would be more constant.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Centennial, CO
How hard is it to change the tensioner? I think I'll change that first. Kinda shotgunning, but it's been on there for quite awhile. How much are they, and is a dealer the only place to get one? Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
The tensioner isn't too difficult to change, but I don't think it is your problem based on the fact that it is not a constant squeek. The same is true for the idler pulley. Both of these would squeek several times per RPM because they turn faster because of their small size. The tensioner is on the passenger side and the idler is towards the top.
I would look to the A/C compressor clutch. This isn't too hard to change but isn't cheap, so I would not change it unless you were sure it was the problem.
The Camshaft Position Sensor isn't difficult to change, but alignment is critical, so you might want to leave it to a shop.
I would look to the A/C compressor clutch. This isn't too hard to change but isn't cheap, so I would not change it unless you were sure it was the problem.
The Camshaft Position Sensor isn't difficult to change, but alignment is critical, so you might want to leave it to a shop.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Centennial, CO
I have been paying more attention to it, and it is constant with RPM's. Is it reasonable to change the idler pulley along with the tentioner? I'm going to do the tentioner this weekend. I was quoted $80 for the tentioner, does that sound reasonable? Please be aware that I am retired, (very old) and have some tools. I have done valve jobs before, in the carb days. It ia also associated with temp. When I forst start it up in the AM, that's when it happens. Later in the day, it does not.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Both the tensioner and idler pulley are easy to change. The idler pulley is about $17 and the tensioner is about $32.
If you can't find this kind of pricing at the auto parts store, got to www.rockauto.com.
If you can't find this kind of pricing at the auto parts store, got to www.rockauto.com.