Distributor doesn't turn!
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Distributor doesn't turn!
How is it that I have vacuum, but distributor does not turn? It turns backward when cranking by hand, but turn less than one rev when using the starter after moving it backward. I don't get it!
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Well, that was it! But what causes/caused the roll pin to shear? The distributor has some roughness in turning so I thought that it had seized at some time. I have disassembled it all but the (what's it called) star rotor which is preventing me from from getting to the centrifigal mechanism. It is all mounted to a round plate that sets down in the housing and I'm thinking there is a bad bushing within that plate. Any comments? Also, can some shop like Napa get that star rotor off for me? (but how do I get it back on? )
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
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The roll pin shears because the gear has been loose on the shaft and cutting into it. It can also be caused by foreign matter in the oil pump. I would check to make sure the pump can be turned before reinstalling the distributor.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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No need to pull the 460. Drop the pan, take the oil pump off and remove the foreign matter. Has to be a piece of gasket or a piece of broken valve stem seal.
If the oil pump innards are scored, replace the pump. In all cases, replace the defective pickup screen that allowed the foreign matter in there to begin with.
The pin shearing off is something of a safety factor. The motor stops before oil starvation begins.
If the oil pump innards are scored, replace the pump. In all cases, replace the defective pickup screen that allowed the foreign matter in there to begin with.
The pin shearing off is something of a safety factor. The motor stops before oil starvation begins.
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Honestly, I have a 2002 ford supercrew so I qualify for Ford Truck Enthusiasts, but this 460 I'm working on is in a project "Jet Boat" I am pursuing. The pan is on the hull. I don't have many options. I need to check it out completely before I get out on the water with it. The fellow told me it was freshly rebuilt but lost spark. I have went through the electrical, but we know what I have found now. I am interested in what anyone has seen to stop the oil pump like this. You mentioned something about a gasket? Don't know what gasket could make it's way there. Input?
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Brett Foote
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From: Northwest
It only takes a small piece of metal or hard plastic to sieze up the pump,the clearances are tight. It's real common for the valve seals to harden and crack and then break apart.......... and then find their way into your pump. This can happen even on low mile motors when cheap umbrella seals have been used and the engine has been run hot.
That little roll pin is really a good idea on Fords part, it's a fail safe for when the pump fail......... kill the ignition and saves the motor,
That little roll pin is really a good idea on Fords part, it's a fail safe for when the pump fail......... kill the ignition and saves the motor,
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
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From: Southern IL
Could be the cover off the timeing chain came apart tool. Plastic through everything and lock it up tight. Here's another option though, sometimes the pins will wear out and just break, although I would agree that usually something else would cause it. When you drop the pan, remove the sump, unbolt the engine from/at the mounts, then you can raise it enough to pull the pan right out from under it. See what you got inside there and please let us know, or me, I'm curious.
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I want to thank all you guys very much for your help. This is a great site. But I will be pulling the motor and completly rebuilding over the winter. Remember, this is a 1968 motor. It prbably has a few other failures. The fellow told me that it had been rebuilt, but then lost spark. With your help, we found that the roll pin on the distributor was sheared (it didn't appear broke). But now that I have something locking the oil pump, I better go through it with a fine tooth comb. I can't drop the pan at all. It may have a quarter inch between the pan and the bottom of the hull. I will probably be hittin you guys up for more info as I rebuild I have a chiltons book for 75 through 82. Do you think those tolerances (crank, rods, pistons etc.) would be the same for my 1968?
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