fabritech sas
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fabritech sas
im lookin at options for an sas to do on my 88 f150, anybody know anything from experience or word of mouth about the fabritech solid axle conversion kit they have. their website says its the cats *** but theres no pricing or anything. much thanks..
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Go to yahoo and search for Ford Bronco Solid Axle Swaps, and you will come up with alot of guys (same as an F150) also search this board it has been covered hundreds of times. I'll try to help more when it isn't 3 something in the morning and I've been drinking all night.
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From: TN
Here are a few good links,
http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/D44solid/
http://www.2bigbroncos.com/technical/d60/prelim.html#1
http://www.wt4wheeling.com/tech/sas2.htm
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...73#post1826773
This should prolly cover everything you need, hope it helps
http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/D44solid/
http://www.2bigbroncos.com/technical/d60/prelim.html#1
http://www.wt4wheeling.com/tech/sas2.htm
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...73#post1826773
This should prolly cover everything you need, hope it helps
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From: CT
Can't completely hate fabritch, they make an awesome set of brackets, they are just overly expensive. As for the swap, it is very straight foreward. Start with a 78/79 bronco axle, you need the radius arms off it and the brackets, coil pad and retainer. atleast 4" lift coils for 78/79 bronc. 78/79 tie rod, '90 F350 drag link. The only piece you will need to fabricate from scratch is a tracbar bracket, you will need to modify the radius arm brackets, pushing the face in 21degrees. Once you get the axle mounted up and the truck is sitting on the ground under it's own weight you will beable to fabricate the tracbar bracket, making sure to keep the trac bar parallel with the drag link. You will need to clearance the engine crossmember a bit so the axle doesn't smash into it.
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k i got a scenario here.... 88 f150 w/6 inch lift,,, i am gonna bump it up to 8".
say i get a 78/79 solidD44, 8 inch lift coils, extended radius arms and the appropriate brackets, do i have to hack apart the engine cross member to get the driveshaft to line up, seeing as the 78/79 pumpkin is offset to the passenger side more as apposed to the current ttbD44?? i dont feel so hot about hacking up stuff like that. or is this not a problem with that much lift?? and since the coils seem to sag so much, can i use 10" inch lift coils instead and run 8inches of lift in the rear to level her out. from the research i've done it seems as though installing leaves are a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than obtaining bracketry and radius arms for my year/model. does this still apply with 8 inches of lift??
thanks a load for the hand!!!
say i get a 78/79 solidD44, 8 inch lift coils, extended radius arms and the appropriate brackets, do i have to hack apart the engine cross member to get the driveshaft to line up, seeing as the 78/79 pumpkin is offset to the passenger side more as apposed to the current ttbD44?? i dont feel so hot about hacking up stuff like that. or is this not a problem with that much lift?? and since the coils seem to sag so much, can i use 10" inch lift coils instead and run 8inches of lift in the rear to level her out. from the research i've done it seems as though installing leaves are a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than obtaining bracketry and radius arms for my year/model. does this still apply with 8 inches of lift??
thanks a load for the hand!!!
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To get 8" of lift while doing a SAS all you need is the 6" coils for the front, IF you are keeping the '88 coil towers. If you use the coil spring mounts from the donor vehicle you would need 8" springs.
I don't think you would have to hack up the crossmember at all, if you need all you would have to do is notch it, and re-enforce.
I don't think you would have to hack up the crossmember at all, if you need all you would have to do is notch it, and re-enforce.
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From: CT
This is how it is, if you use your TTB coils and retain the TTB lower coil clamp you will need to mimmic the TTB lower. like so
On top of that the TTB cups will sit then the coil then the TTB coil clam can be bolted down. This will then give you about 8-8.5" of lift. I would still suggest trimming some of the huge lip of the crossmember, especially near the diff.
On top of that the TTB cups will sit then the coil then the TTB coil clam can be bolted down. This will then give you about 8-8.5" of lift. I would still suggest trimming some of the huge lip of the crossmember, especially near the diff.
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k, one final question, i just wanna get this clarified before i hack out the ttb...
i am currently running 6" of lift, front and rear, with my *** end sittin what looks like 2 inches higher than the front. your telling me that with the solid axle swap and my 6" lift springs, i am gonna gain 2-2.5 inches of additional height in the front?? which i guess would make the truck sit level with the rear?
thanks again for all the info, its much appreciated!!!
i am currently running 6" of lift, front and rear, with my *** end sittin what looks like 2 inches higher than the front. your telling me that with the solid axle swap and my 6" lift springs, i am gonna gain 2-2.5 inches of additional height in the front?? which i guess would make the truck sit level with the rear?
thanks again for all the info, its much appreciated!!!