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It still seems to work fine....it just not "cold" anymore...it is just cool....not good enough for the really hot days.
Should I try to do it myself?
I've seen some kits with a guage in and all for around $30.
BUT....I also understand from reading a few threads that you can just get the AC stuff for about $5 or so.
Has anyone done it themselves with the cheap method can give me an idea of the process (ie was it difficult, how long did it take, etc)?
I understand that with just the can alone, there is a danger of overcharging. Is there a method to recharge it bit-by-bit....checking after each small charge? OR ....is there a BIG danger of just ruining everything?
I found a kit, at the local auto super market (PepBoys or any others), that had the valve for the can and the pressure gauge all in line. So you start by hooking it up the low side port and seeing the pressure. The you can open the valve to the can (gauge does not work in at that moment) and put some 134 into the system. You close the valve and then you can read the gauge again. So you can add a little at a time if you like.
I have added 134 to my other vehicles before without an in-line gauge like this one and did not have problems but this made life much much easier. I did have a separate gauge to check in those cases as well, but it was a pain to do it that way.
In any case, with the new setup I had the Mountaineer blowing cold air in about 10 minutes... (I had to use the stop leak version and two cans of it for it to finally take... it might not last, but with 178k on the engine it was worth a shot). So far it is a two months later and it still blows nice and cold.
[edit]What I said above is for an R134a system and not for an R12 system, I am assuming that the original question asked did not refer to an R12 system because of the year of the vehicle involved. If it is an R12 system you will need to get it professionally serviced, if you can find someone with freon, or converted over (again professionally as there would still be freon in the system if still blows some cold) to a new "eco-friendly" option.
I bought the cheapest can of 134a I could find, no guage, just a hose and connector. Followed the instructions, took about 10 minutes, no problems. However since my accumulator was leaking it only lasted a couple of weeks. Inspect your accumulator, I bet it is covered in oil, if so it is leaking and your charge may not last long. Apparently a common problem on 98 Ex/Rangers.
It is a black cannister about the size of a coke can, near the firewall on the passenger side. It may have a thin wrapping of insulation around it. The low side ac port is in the same area. I paid to have mine replaced. 90 parts, 75 labor, I think. The system has to be evacuated before replacing and then recharged...If it is oily and greasy, it is probably leaking.
I checked the canister...it's pretty convenientlyly located....
The only residue I see is just, in a few places, that sort of old...gumy-oil film that is on several general places around the engine...it does not seem to have been "spewing" anything. I think it's okay.
I checked my manual for the refrigerant type....I'm sure it's the newer stuff b/c it is a 98.....but it does not actually say so anywhere (that I can see).
Does anyone know how I can find out for sure?
Also....with the cheaper method of recharge (without the gauge..etc)....is there a big possibility that something will be ruined....or would it just not "take" and I'd have to try again...or take it to the dealer?
usually the refrigerant used in the vehicle is listed right under the hood of the car (my 2002 Mazda) or on the labels right at the front of the enigne compartment (my 97 Mountaineer)
Welp....I got the "big can" - 19oz with a reusable guage - It sez that it also has lubricant and "saftey seal" as did most of the cans there. Since the truck is a 98 with about 130K...it prolly can't hurt.
You don't really need a guage to reload your refrigerant if your only doing your own vehicle.Get the least expensive hose adapter. Hook it up on the low pressure side.(passenger side near firewall) Start engine and turn Air on "HIGH". Open valve on 134A cannister and watch compressor action. When it starts running constantly, count to about 20 and close the cannister valve. If you have a thermometer,stick it in air vent. If the temp is anywhere below 50 degrees after a few moments, at about 1500 rpm,then your in the ball park. If it goes to 40 degrees after about three minutes,pat yourself on the back cause it was a job well done!
[B]archer1,
Your almost there.if the compressor turns off and on in short cycles,it means the coolant pressure is still low because there is not enough in the system. Add some more "134A" till the compressor runs constant on the coldest setting. If it runs constant, for the firsts 10 minutes of operation, then you have enough coolant in it.
Advance Auto Has A Max Cool Can That Has Stop Leak, Oil Charge, Freon, And Some Kind Of Pte Type Lube In It Or Something. Before I Bought My Gauge Kit Last Year I Used To Use This And It Would Take Care Of Some Of The Small Leaks You May Have. I Think It Is Around $5 To $10. The Can Is Just Enough To Give A Boost And Not Overfill System. I Have Noticed Sometimes When The System Has To Much In It, It Won't Cool Very Well Either.
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