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Ok I am looking for a little advice on a couple things. I have been driving my 65 F250 with no problems for awhile now. Last week the brakes were locked up completely. I think it was only the back since they were both smoking. Later on one of the brake lines developed a hole so on went new brake lines in the rear. Now the brakes were locked up again. New wheel cylinders didn't help. Bleeding didn't help. Now I am installing power brakes and late model master cylinder from a 76 truck. I am finishing this week as I still need the porportioning valve and the right size brake lines. Will this fix my problem or do I need to replace all the lines. Also any advice for finishing up the late model conversion. I am changing to discs in the front later on.
A new m/c will likely solve the problem. However, there is an outside chance that the flexible brake hose at the rear axle is restricted to the point that it will not permit fluid to flow back freely.
You do not need a proportioning valve if you still have the drums. You can separate front and rear brakes at the original tee and plumb one side of the dual m/c into each existing line.
Eric
An auto parts store that sells brake lines will have what you need. You need two couplers to replace the tee and two short lines to run from them to the m/c. Brake lines with wire coiled around them will be easier to bend. Your m/c will likely not have a port for the stoplight switch. You can retain the tee and use one of its three ports for the pressure switch.
Eric
If you are going to a drum/disc setup, you will need the proper porportioning valve to get the proper braking and a M/cyl that goes with that year disc setup. If you look at any late model Ford truck ( pre ABS ) you will find this on them. This valve sends the proper amount of pressure between the front and rear brakes. To check a bad flex line in the rear, open the bleeder screws on the rear cyls and step on the pedal. If you do not get fluid coming out at the cyls, the hose is bad. If you get fluid at one but not the other, then that particular steel section is bad. Have someone step on the pedal while you are opening the bleeder screws.
I get fluid at both rear corners while bleeding. I am going to the newer brake light switch located on the gas pedal and front discs so I am just getting it set up in advance.
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