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There are no long wheel base excursions. There are no short wheel base excursions. They are all the same. Some have DC from factory in rear, some do not.
I have 3 excursions. 2 have DC rear driveshaft 1 does not. All are same length. All are 2000 or 2001 models.
The simple fact is if you put a DC in place of a single you need to address geometry.
Please go to Tom woods driveshaft Web site and read their info.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
Relax yourself sir...
I had thought I read somewhere in this thread somebody has started chiming in about the other super duty trucks within the lineup. I went back realized I was looking at two different threads at the same time.
I'm fully aware of ALL the dimensions within the super duty lineup truck and excursions. I was using generalized speak which I thought you'd had known by my reference to the long wheel base and 0 degree blocks. I apologize for assuming you would have known that if I was mentioning a flat block and long Single u joint drive shafts that I was speaking in reference to the Long WB models within the lineup, not excursion.
I had thought I read somewhere in this thread somebody has started chiming in about the other super duty trucks within the lineup. I went back realized I was looking at two different threads at the same time.
I'm fully aware of ALL the dimensions within the super duty lineup truck and excursions. I was using generalized speak which I thought you'd had known by my reference to the long wheel base and 0 degree blocks. I apologize for assuming you would have known that if I was mentioning a flat block and long Single u joint drive shafts that I was speaking in reference to the Long WB models within the lineup, not excursion.
No problem, but excursions too have angled blocks and flat blocks......depending on wither its a double carden or not. All 4x4 excursions I have same drivshaft lengths. The 4x4 excursion blocks are all 2 inches high so in order to get the correct pinion DS angle Ford used angled blocks for DC and flat for the singles.
This is why I stated that if a DC is put in place of a Single, geometery needs addressed.
I inferred that you said angled blocks are not needed with excursions when switching from a single to a DC......sorry.
Its confusing, for me because if you lift a excursion with a single ujoint style the block should stay flat. If you lift a excursion with a DC than you may need to put more angle in the lift block to keep the DS and Pinion angle 0.
Up to a point singles can be used but at some point (i dont know what that is) a single should be swapped out for a DC.
To me this is just more proof we can all read the same post and "hear" intent and tone completely differently.
I took his post like he was relaxed, but making a concerted effort to communicate properly, by trying to re-identify exactly what he was talking about, to make sure there was no confusion.
Nice to see guys converse without anyone getting their hackles up a tad and imbuing their post with sarcasm or outright put downs.
Well....... mine an 02 has the double cardan shaft up front.
I have been chasing a clunk while in 4x4 for a bit. While in 4x4 it was clunking and grinding and noise coming from drivers side. I noticed the stub shaft seemed to have lots of play in it, so I ordered a new hub, and I ended up replacing the front hud/needle bearing unit thinking it was the needle bearings that were shot.
Test it in 4x4, same noise. Okay, I figured it might be the ujoint in the stub shaft that I noticed had play in it. Take two, and tore it all apart again to replace the ujoint in the stub shaft, and the large seal.
Test in 4x4, same noise. Crawl under to check the front drive shaft from the transfer case and found the ujoint in the cardan joint shot. Get out tools to remove the ujoint in place, thinking it is just the one, and not wanting to pull the whole shaft.
That is when I notice the flange from the shaft that goes to the cardan joint all crumbled and falling apart. Grrrrh.
Off to mechanic today to get a new front shaft.
Doing this in the driveway at minus 10C in the dark is not getting too fun, so the mechanic gets it.
I have the exact same setup on my 2001 7.3 4x4 Excursion. In this journey for the past 2 years thus far I swapped :
-T-Case
-single u joint at rear diff
Yesterday:
-Removed 8 degree shim that was under by rear 4" blocks.
-Spun my rear block to reduce 5 degrees.
-Confirmed my T-Case angle is 5 degrees downward and rear diff is 5 degrees upward.
Noticed slight movement at u-joint e connecting slip yoke to t-case (rear) and movement within yoke .
My bet is (1) remainder u-joint and worn yoke (blue splines). New driveshaft??
01 limited 4x4 7.3
front drive shaft is double carden at the T case, single at the pumpkin
rear is single joint at each end
I do have a vibration at typically around 60-65 and above
01 limited 4x4 7.3
front drive shaft is double carden at the T case, single at the pumpkin
rear is single joint at each end
I do have a vibration at typically around 60-65 and above
I just developed a driveline vibration myself, been doing some towing. A recent inspection revealed all the joints are now spitting grease, and the slip yokes are getting loose, all appear to be original. The front complete drop-in driveshaft is still avail from Ford, so I just bought that, my rear is in the shop getting completely redone as it's NLA. The drive shaft guy tells me that Spicer no longer has the original slip yokes in my size avail anymore, so we are going with one that is a half inch longer, which is fine cause i'm lifted.
Mine has 149285 miles on it. I replaced the rear u joints but no difference. I'm going to see if any place around here balances drive shafts and get that checked next.
Mine has 149285 miles on it. I replaced the rear u joints but no difference. I'm going to see if any place around here balances drive shafts and get that checked next.
If you have the rear balancer, that could be your issue, have it checked, the driveshaft guy will be checking mine along with the balance.
2002 7.3L Diesel Excursion Limited with Single piece rear driveshaft. I now have SPICER universals on both joints. The first one (OEM?) went bad around 180k, I replaced it with NAPA lifetime severe fairy dust version that lasted a year and I replaced it again but with a SPICER. All driveline stuff...SPICER now.
Because of the crazy vibration when these go bad, I recently replaced the front outer seal and cone bearing (2 extra minutes) in the rear differential.
2005 4x4 Eddie Bauer 6.0
Both Shafts are double Cardon and Booted
3.5" lift
Also LandYot Radius rods for the last 250K miles.
Need new rear bushings for Radius rods...
From what my driveline guy said Spicer sold out and are now Chineeze as of a couple of years ago. I was lucky to rebuild my driveshafts wih USA Spicer u joints before they sold out of USA joints.
I have a double cardan on my rear driveshaft.
I had driveline vibrations and my driveline guy found the yoke was causing it so I replaced it and no more vibrations since then.
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