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I crawled under my X this evening ... and I'm not sure what I'm looking at. The drive shaft has a U joint (double, I think) ... then a short skinny section (maybe 1.5 feet) ... then a boot then the remainder is thick ... ending in another double U joint.
urp. oops. In case you don't think to mouse-over my sig, it's an 04 EB X.
This is one of the most apropos bumps of a thread over 10 years old that I've ever seen.
Well done on the search!!
Stewart
Well I'll follow up soon since I snagged a Double cardan version off eBay and hoping that it swaps right in. I was hoping to get an answer before hand but didn't want to miss the deal.
I have a double cardin on rear of my 4x4 XLT 2001 V10.
Be careful putting a double cardin in place of a single setup. Doubles require a different angle on rear end than singles and vice versa.
I suspect the doubles may have angled 2" OEM blocks under leaf springs and singles have straight blocks under springs. Can't say for sure though.
I have a double cardin on rear of my 4x4 XLT 2001 V10.
Be careful putting a double cardin in place of a single setup. Doubles require a different angle on rear end than singles and vice versa.
I suspect the doubles may have angled 2" OEM blocks under leaf springs and singles have straight blocks under springs. Can't say for sure though.
You have that 180 degrees opposite.
The double carden doesn't need an angle...but rather it's used to help over come the ill effects of steep driveline angles.
The double carden doesn't need an angle...but rather it's used to help over come the ill effects of steep driveline angles.
Double carden needs to have the pinion angle and driveshaft angle the same. In other words the angle of driveshaft = to angle of pinion. This requires tilting rear end upwards. Therefore a angled block is needed. It's the double Carden up by transfer case that takes all the angle.
If it's not set up this way than the yoke will slide back and forth on driveshaft causing vibration.
On a non carden the angle between the pinion and driveshaft does not = 0. But must be equal to the angle between the transfer case output shaft and driveshaft so angled blocks not necessarily needed.
Double carden needs to have the pinion angle and driveshaft angle the same. In other words the angle of driveshaft = to angle of pinion. This requires tilting rear end upwards. Therefore a angled block is needed. It's the double Carden up by transfer case that takes all the angle.
If it's not set up this way than the yoke will slide back and forth on driveshaft causing vibration.
On a non carden the angle between the pinion and driveshaft does not = 0. But must be equal to the angle between the transfer case output shaft and driveshaft so angled blocks not necessarily needed.
I didn't mean 180 in direction. You said the double carden NEEDS angle help and while any shim or block to try to get point A to point B on as straight of a plane as possible is always a good thing the Single is the one needing the angle help.
The single u joint t case end that gets a flat block on the rear axle is only found on the long wheel base versions.
Length is what supersedes all this.
The short front shafts all get a DC on the tcase side because of the short length combined with steep angle wgere a single would just not work there in most cases.
There are no long wheel base excursions. There are no short wheel base excursions. They are all the same. Some have DC from factory in rear, some do not.
I have 3 excursions. 2 have DC rear driveshaft 1 does not. All are same length. All are 2000 or 2001 models.
The simple fact is if you put a DC in place of a single you need to address geometry.
Please go to Tom woods driveshaft Web site and read their info.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
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