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for those of you using the rotella, are you running synthetic or not? also, i am not using synthetic right now, but i am thinking of switching, do i have to do anything, like flush the truck out or just drain the nonsyn oil and then add the synthetic stuff and just giver?
for those of you using the rotella, are you running synthetic or not? also, i am not using synthetic right now, but i am thinking of switching, do i have to do anything, like flush the truck out or just drain the nonsyn oil and then add the synthetic stuff and just giver?
their rotella synthetic is different than ours ( yes I live in vancouver ), in USA shell is selling 5w40 gr III synthetic in canada you get 0W40 gr IV synthetic. Regarding second part of you question - no flush is required, dump dino oil out and put fresh synthetic in that is it , now if you have a lot milege on your truck you might think about this twice , if you are unlucky, you'll get leaks
eri64, what would you call high milage, i have about 50000 miles on my truck, is that too many to start putting synthetic in? the reason i am asking is cause winter is on its way and with dino oil, when it hits like -25-30 here my truck wont start unless its plugged in. but if i run syn oil it will turn over and start.
eri64, what would you call high milage, i have about 50000 miles on my truck, is that too many to start putting synthetic in? the reason i am asking is cause winter is on its way and with dino oil, when it hits like -25-30 here my truck wont start unless its plugged in. but if i run syn oil it will turn over and start.
5o k miles is not high milage ,you can switch no problem ,duron synthetic 5w40 is the best of all synthetics in low temps., but even then if you want you have choice of two oils in 0w30 ch-4 rated oils one petrocanada the other one chevron delo 0W30 ,
So if you just use normal 15W40 is it really bad for the motor??, I just went to Mr. Lube and got it changed there.
almost all the 15W40 are diesel oils ,except few of them which have motorcycle rating but I highly doubt it that anybody would put motorcycle oil in the truck
Bad Company, Here's info on anti foam agents. Recommended anti-foaming additives are Fleetrite with the Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888. These are primarilly used to counter the effects of silicone sealers on the anti-foaming agents in the oil or if the agents become depleted from use providing the oil is still servicable and uncontaminated. An anti-foaming additive could also be used between oil changes if an oil-related poor running condition is suspected, especially on a long trip. Hope this helps.
"The use of a NON-API certified oil WILL void your vehicle manufacturer's warranty!!!"
Bob you are completely wrong. There has been a court case and a precident set on this.
BTW aren't most companinies MLM companies? Wal-Mart does not get its oil directly from Mobil 1 - there are two or three distributors in between. AutoZone and Advanced may not be MLM in the sense that multiple companies have their hands in your pocket, however each level of those companies are taking their cut. I have owned retail and I do know how it works. Also, in this time with troops dying over seas where is your oil from? Whos pockets are you lining? Is it a foreign company or American. Just thoughts to ponder.
Bob Ayers - no more hatemail to my personal account.
"The use of a NON-API certified oil WILL void your vehicle manufacturer's warranty!!!"
Bob you are completely wrong. There has been a court case and a precident set on this.
Actually, Bob is correct. If you read your owner's manual carefully you will notice that it says you are to use an oil with the proper API certification, not an oil meeting those criteria. There was actually a case recently (in the 6.0 forum) where someone took their truck into the dealer for an oil leak and they were using Amsoil. The dealer told them to put the proper oil in the truck and turned them away.
I'd be interested to see the court case you're referring to. Please post a link.
"The use of a NON-API certified oil WILL void your vehicle manufacturer's warranty!!!"
Bob you are completely wrong. There has been a court case and a precident set on this.
BTW aren't most companinies MLM companies? Wal-Mart does not get its oil directly from Mobil 1 - there are two or three distributors in between. AutoZone and Advanced may not be MLM in the sense that multiple companies have their hands in your pocket, however each level of those companies are taking their cut. I have owned retail and I do know how it works. Also, in this time with troops dying over seas where is your oil from? Whos pockets are you lining? Is it a foreign company or American. Just thoughts to ponder.
Bob Ayers - no more hatemail to my personal account.
A. If you're going to make accusations about hate mail, back it up with the admins.
B. What is your relationship with Amsoil? Are you a dealer or "preferred customer"?
Good info here! I agree with Believer45 about Mobil, Shell and Chevron all being good. I have studied them since the seventies for use in air compressors and settled on Mobil Delvac 15w 40 as an engine lubricant. My expertise is in air compressors but they do have the same moving parts, Pistons / rings, crankshafts with sleeve bearings and roller bearings, wrist pins and with the rotary screw lines there are medium speed rotational parts. The only difference is that engines have to deal with combustion byproducts.
I do see a disturbing trend in the automotive industry though and thats the use of very ligfhtweight oils to improve fuel econmy. I do believe they have sacrificed longevity for higer CAFE ( coorperate average fuel economy ) ratings. The use of 5wt oil is just asking for trouble. I have also drained the ATF from my 6 speed manual trans and put in 90wt.