Hi Guys,
It's been awhile since Ive had to use this board for info.
A good thing cause I've had no problems with the truck - knock on wood!
Ive got a 92 f250 N/A 7.3L and have been experiencing a hard start after the truck has warmed to operating temp. No problems when cold.
I've checked everything like glowplugs, harness, ect. and nothing.
I'm kinda lost now.
thanx for your help

 

Nobody can help?
I know someone knowledgeable on this board has something to say

 

That is usually an early sign of injection pump failure,at least it was in my case.I would have to wait a couple of hours before it would re-start.

 

What you mean by hardstart, like it takes a little bit longer of rolling over befor it starts? If that is the case check your whole fuel system for leaks, because when rubber things get hot they shrink and cause air leaks, so it wont want to start. That is what i have found out anyway on my 7.3. Look first at the injector return lines, while its running if they are all good you wont see any deisel leaking or air out of them (but make sure the engine is hot). That is what i have experienced anyway.

 

Thanx for your replies.

thechad - i did notice a small leak on the injector 't' and replaced the o-rings already. what i mean in a hard start is ...
say i run to the grocery store, jump in to grab groceries and come out, turn the key (the engine temp is still around normal operating temp) wait until the 'wait to start' light goes out and try to crank her over. It usually takes about 5 to 10 seconds of constant crancking to get her to turn over. I've noticed that the glow plug relay hasn't done the typical 'cycle' of the relay and also, the wait to start light stays on for only a couple of seconds.
If i cycle the key on and off until i hear the glow plug relay cycle through the clicking, then it usually starts on the first throw of the key.
I've changed the GP relay and it worked okay for awhile. I checked all glow plugs and nothing wrong with them (i just changed them in january) but i've still noticed that the wait to start light only stays on for a few seconds.
What controls this light? could it be a bad temp sensor?

PNose - my injector pump hasn't been done and i've got 290,000 KM's on her. maybe its time to get a reman?
Any more thoughts would be great!

 

It sounds like there is a fuel leak from the injection pump after it sets for a bit. Also, on my 88 I had this happen. the glow plug controller was corroded on the circuit that supplies the power in the larger connections. Once I cleaned the contacts, i was good to go, but it did act really goofy before I cleaned it up.

 

It is normal for the light to be quick when the motor is allready warmed up. I dont think the glow plugs are to blame if it starts every time when its cold. I would try cleaning all your electrical connections and testing your batteries, because elcticity doesn't flow as well when its hot. That being said your starter might not be spinning fast enough. Just an idea from previous experience.

 

Thanx again for your help guys.
I will try all suggestions to see if any of them work.
My batteries are brand new as well so I don't see them being the problem. I installed a new alternator at the same time because it was overcharging my system and boiling my batteries.
Is there any check that can be done on the injector pump to see if that is the problem?

 

Even though you replaced the o-ring (or rings) on the injector doesn't mean it wont leak again so while the engine is running and hot watch all the injectors and look for leaks. Rubber when it gets hot contracts and will allow deisel on the return lines to leak putting air in the system until it cools enough to seal. So while spinning the starter for 5-10 sec it could be building back lost pressure. About you fuel pump, it might be going bad but then again I have 300k on my truck with both stock pumps. I also run injector cleaner with lubricates them often. So for kind of a temporary bandage you can look for some redline 85+ deisel cleaner will help with the leaks I have found, but not a permanint fix. Just my expeirence working on my 7.3.

 

cool chad,
I'll do that tonight right when i pull into the driveway after work.
I haven't ran cleaner every tank but i would say atleast every 4 to 5 tanks. come to think of it, i need to stop in and get some for the next fill.
Thanx for the help

 

If its starting good when its cold(1st start for the day)then i doubt there is anything wrong with the gp system.When mine went bad thats what happened,1st start,perfect,once it warmed up it started like yours,really hard to start.After a couple of weeks like that it wouldnt go unless you left it alone for a couple of hours.What i think is happening is the tolerances inside the ip are worn and when its heated up everything is expanded too much out of spec for it to work.BTW be ready to replace that starter soon,as they hate any extended cranking.

 

Thanx pnose,
Is there any kinda check that can be done for the IP Pump?
and what would be the best bang for the buck - reman pump or new?

 

I was just having similar problems and it turned out to be a faulty lift pump. May not be your problem but have you checked to see if it's working? Remove the internals from the shrader valve on the filter housing and crank it over for 10 seconds with a container to catch the fuel. I forget the specs on how much it should put out but mine was zero.

By the way, I see your from Vancouver. I am on Vancouver Island.

Darren

 

The only sure test i know of is to remove the ip and have it bench tested at a re-builder shop.Like snewpy said check the lift pump 1st.With the core removed from the shrader valve(looks like a tire valve on top of the filter housing)put a hose over the valve and put the other end into a container.Disconnect the fuel shut off sol to prevent motor from starting and possibly running short of fuel.You need to have 1/3 of a pint with 10 seconds of cranking.(batts and starter must be up to the task,you should be cranking at close to 200rpm if all is good)The best time to check this would be when your having the starting problem,however it wouldnt hurt to check before the 1st start of the day so you will have something to compare to.If Your starter is draging a little that will also cause hard hot starts.Good luck.BTW a re-man pump is more cost effective than a new one.

 

Well, I found the cause of my problem.
From all of the comments on this board, and calling a injector shop and talking with a very knowledgeable tech ...
I was told that the problem i am having (hard start hot) is very common problem with our IDI's.
What PNose had, has happened to me. It is the IP pump that is toast!
It's gonna cost me $625cdn for the pump and another $350cdn for the inner gears which are causing the hard start hot. Usually they can reuse the inner gears but because of my problem, they can't and have to throw out the old which is why the additional $350. I'm doing the re&re and they will set up the timing at no additional cost.

So the question I have now is ..
Is this a good price? a thousand bucks is pretty hard to swallow!