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I've got a 1969 F-100, 390, 3:25 rear end, and 3 on the tree. My RPM's are 2500 at 55 mph. I'm guessing that a 4 speed manual would help my RPMS's and maybe give me more on the top end. I think the rear end is about right to give me good torque but I'd like to get a little more out of my 390. Know what I mean? Any words from the experts?
Well, it depends on what kind of 4 speed you mean. Most transmissions have 1:1 output ratios regardless of how many gears they have.
The exception is those transmissions designated "overdrive" where the final gear ratio is usually between .7:1 to .8:1.
So, a regular 4 speed won't get you any advantage in gas mileage. You need to find an overdrive transmission.
Others can help you further, and you may want to try asking this question in the FTE transmisison forum.
However, comma, those 2500 RPMs at 55 mph don't sound quite right for a 3.25 rear axle.
Are you sure you have a 3.25? What does your Warranty Plate say you should have, and have you checked it to be sure?
The bottom left numbers on the plate has a 3 space 25. All I can find to read about it says that's a 3:25. Can you recommend a good site for that stuff?
Do you mean the Warranty Plate or the axle tag? If it says 3_25 on the axle tag (and the rear chunk is original) then yes, you have a 3.25 rearend gear ratio.
If it is on the warranty plate, I don't know. I'm sorry, but my books start at '58 and only go up to '66.
Can anyone else help him out?
Great! You have a 3.25! That ratio in my experience, tend to be highly desirable. For most situations, the 3.5 is usually used. People often want to go to a 3.0 or a 2.75, but that makes it too tall, so a 3.25 is a nice intermediate.
I had a 3.5 in my '66 3-speed, and tried a 2.75. I couldn't even pull away from a stop on a level road without feathering the clutch!
3.25 worked out real well for me, especially with the overdrive.
Good luck in finding the right gear ratio!
I've decided to go ahead and put in the 4 speed just to get some better mileage around town. I'm military and most of my driving is on and around post so I think that'll be better with a 4 speed. This may be a dumb question but is it necessary to change the pressure plate when I put a new clutch in her?
It is NOT necessary, but usually you can buy a "kit" with all the pieces, clutch disc, plate, throwout bearing. Usually not a bad deal either. I think just over $100 can get you a decent factory replacement piece.
The rpm's are strange because of tire size....I have the same ratio and I had 275-35 15's and thats normal.....I went to 31 10.5 15's and my rpms lowered alot on the highway my father changed them down one size smaller than stock and now at 55 mph the rpm's are screaming. So tire size has alot to do with it.
It is NOT necessary, but usually you can buy a "kit" with all the pieces, clutch disc, plate, throwout bearing. Usually not a bad deal either. I think just over $100 can get you a decent factory replacement piece.
I checked and can get the whole shooting match for $169 at Advance. Might as well, if you're going to spend money and do something, might as well do it right. Thanks, Train
The rpm's are strange because of tire size....I have the same ratio and I had 275-35 15's and thats normal.....I went to 31 10.5 15's and my rpms lowered alot on the highway my father changed them down one size smaller than stock and now at 55 mph the rpm's are screaming. So tire size has alot to do with it.
I have 235 15's (28 inches tall) and run 2150 rpm at 55 mph. I am going to TRY some 33's from my dad. I'm sure the rpms will come down but I want to be sure that I can put more than 10 lbs in the bed without hitting the tires. It'll be interesting to say the least.