bare metal, what next?
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: TAOS NM
bare metal, what next?
ok got down to bare metal on the whole car and i need to know what is the best to seal , urethane or epoxy sealer? and i also want the hot rod look with the flat black that some call primer.
is th flat black (primer) look really primer or is it just a flat black paint with no shine, i ask this because i know that primer eventually rubs off and is not gonna stop moistuer like paint will, so what do i choose ? or do the bare metal sealer come in flat black, this way i will just seal the metal and still have the flat black look and the protection?
is th flat black (primer) look really primer or is it just a flat black paint with no shine, i ask this because i know that primer eventually rubs off and is not gonna stop moistuer like paint will, so what do i choose ? or do the bare metal sealer come in flat black, this way i will just seal the metal and still have the flat black look and the protection?
Last edited by forddytube; Jul 11, 2004 at 09:02 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 191
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From: Portland Oregon
Some people recommend following the system approach. You decide
what brand you favor and follow their "system". In other words
are you using PPG or Martin Senour or Sikkens etc. All of them
will have a recommendation for a bare metal primer or wash primer
whose main purpose is rust prevention and to a certain extent
adhesion. They are sprayed pretty thin and are non sandable.
After that comes a primer sealer and then a primer surfacer which
is sandable. Then color coat or base coat(color)-clear coat.
what brand you favor and follow their "system". In other words
are you using PPG or Martin Senour or Sikkens etc. All of them
will have a recommendation for a bare metal primer or wash primer
whose main purpose is rust prevention and to a certain extent
adhesion. They are sprayed pretty thin and are non sandable.
After that comes a primer sealer and then a primer surfacer which
is sandable. Then color coat or base coat(color)-clear coat.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
The old lacquer primers (which includes most of your rattle can primers) are not waterproof.
Seal up your bare metal with DTM (direct-to-metal) epoxy primer. It will seal in any micro-rust and seal out moisture. After this step, you can put on any finish you want.
Epoxy primer is great stuff !!
The old lacquer primers (which includes most of your rattle can primers) are not waterproof.
Seal up your bare metal with DTM (direct-to-metal) epoxy primer. It will seal in any micro-rust and seal out moisture. After this step, you can put on any finish you want.
Epoxy primer is great stuff !!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 2
From: Colville
PPG DP primers come in many colors and work as bare metal primers or as a sealer.
You should treat the bare metal with metal conditioner first.
You also didn't say how you stripped the body?
Any surface that was sand blasted will need to be sanded to remove the tiny particles of sand, or what ever media was used, that is now imbeded in the sheet metal.
After the Expoxy Primer you will need a primer surfacer.
House of Colors paint is very resonably priced and they have every color combination that you could ever imagine.
You should treat the bare metal with metal conditioner first.
You also didn't say how you stripped the body?
Any surface that was sand blasted will need to be sanded to remove the tiny particles of sand, or what ever media was used, that is now imbeded in the sheet metal.
After the Expoxy Primer you will need a primer surfacer.
House of Colors paint is very resonably priced and they have every color combination that you could ever imagine.
New User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
We removed all the paint off this old car and I used DP 40 on this old car for a guy that never painted it. Just seen it the other day and still no rust or anything. He just keeps washing it from time to time. Its been 10 years or so now. I guess he likes the gray prim look.
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