I had the power steering fluid flushed a couple weeks ago at the ford dealership, and I'm having shuddering problems again with the steering wheel. When I looked, the fluid resevior was over full and fluid was all over the place. I guess this means there is air in the system again....
The service dept can't see it until monday, and I don't have money to fork over for another flush ($85). I'd like to try and bleed the system on my own, but my Haynes manual isn't very detailed on the procedure. Basicly, it says to fill the resevior, turn steering wheel side to side and back and forth again, keeping the fluid topped off. Keep doing this until there are no more bubbles.
Okay, well the resevior is full, and I've driven it and the level hasn't gone down. So my questions are 1) how do I get the rest of the air out of the system, and 2) what exactly do I use to replace the fluid?
If I remember right, my owners manual says to top off with ATF? Should I go to Ford and get actual power steering from them to do this with, or is ATF going to be ok?

 

Here is the standard way in which the average Joe can flush his own power steering system:

1. Suck out most of the fluid in the PS reservoir. (I use an old battery filler that looks a little like a turkey baster)

2. Remove the return hose from the PS reservoir, and plug it with a two inch piece of rubber hose with a bolt threaded into the end of it.

3. Place a long hose (5 feet) using a union onto the return line itself and run it into a large bucket.

4. Fill the reservoir with cheap but fresh ATF fluid and have a gallon container of the cheap fluid ready to go.

5. Assistant starts the engine and turns the wheels lock to lock (I have the front end jacked up when I do this) while you pour in the gallon of fluid to flush the system. Be careful not to let the level get so low as to have the system suck air into it.

6. Stop engine and introduce a good, name brand PS fluid. Assistant runs engine just enough for you to add two quarts of the good stuff.

7. Bleed air from system after reconnecting return line with engine running, turning lock to lock.

8. Top off reservoir.


As far as I know, there is not much you can really do differently than what Haynes says regarding removing the air in the system (turning lock to lock). You might want to increase the rpms a little bit when trying to purge the system so that the actual pumping action of the PS pump will stay firm and consistent.

Any Mercon-rated ATF is fine for the PS system. I happen to use Mobil 1 synthetic in mine, which goes in after the flushing process is complete. I use the cheap autoparts brand, 99 cent stuff for the actual flushing.

 

Thanks Rockledge. Seems like most of the bad effects are gone after bleeding the system (just turning back and forth a bunch). I did notice some bubbles come up, so I did get some air out. The shuddering is gone, and the power steering pump is quiet. Well, quiet for a Ford power steering pump anyway. I didn't have to add any fluid as the level never dropped, so it still seems a little suspicious to me, since there is fluid in the engine compartment. I'll just keep an eye on it for a while and make sure the fluid doesn't get low. Maybe I'll pick up some Mercon ATF to keep around, just incase. Thanks again for the info!

 

i flushed mine. I just found the lowest hose i could. Then drained it. Then i used a compressor to force it all out. Filled it up and repeated. Then filled it and moved it back and forth a few hundred times. (definitely raise the front end) the marks on the driveway didnt come off. I notcied a day or 2 later the bottom of the hood was soaked. I didnt have to top it off, and it hasnt leaked any more. It sounds the same as it did before.

 

Rockledge...

I tried the method you described (above) to flush the PS system and the PS fluid blasted out of the return line so fast that it sucked the resevoir dry in about 2 seconds.

Was I to restrict the flow out of the return line (into the bucket) in some way and add fresh fluid as needed until the gallon of "cheap stuff" flows through?

Maybe I did something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Gil

 

Pull the ignition coil fuse (so the engine doesn't start) and try the procedure without actuallyt starting the engine. Just have your assistant crank the engine in short bursts 10-15 seconds at a time. Should be OK that way.

 

wow, this helps me too, i have been looking at how to do this and i believe i left my haynes manual behind when i moved off to college, i can't find it anywhere, thats the car bible and its lost but this helps out a lot, thanks rockledge

 

Thanks, I'll give this a go on the weekend.

I should have taken closer notice to what it sounded like before I made any repairs. It may be that what I'm hearing is "normal" for Ford PS pumps but it sure sounds excessive. I have no air bubbles present when I bleed the system but it sure seems noisy expecially at idle (standing) and at low speeds (parking lots etc).

I'm sure it can't hurt to flush with fresh fluid so we'll see how it goes on the weekend. At least I have repaired that pesky little leak (I replaced pressure and return lines).

Gil

 

I was able to clear up a "whining" pump on my Taurus SHO by flushing the old fluid out (looked dirty) and putting in some fresh Mobil 1 ATF (it's a Mercon-rated sythetic). Right after the procedure it sounded much better, and as time went on the noise has pretty much disappeared. I only hear it now when I have the wheel cranked all the way.

Doesn't work that well in every case, but it certainly can't hurt.

 

Rockledge,

The recommended PS fluid is Ford Type F, correct? I had heard that others have used Mercon rated ATF fluids in their PS pumps with no issues as well. All the PS pump really needs to function properly is any fluid with hydraulic properties. True?

Speaking of fluids... Ford told me my '91 Explorer (4X4, 4.0L) requires Mercon III for the tranny flush. I've never seen a "Mercon III" label. Most brands list the product as Dextron III/Mercon. I assume this is what they mean? My manual just says Mercon as does the dipstick. I'm assuming Dextron III/Mercon is the required product.

Thanks for the help,

Gil

 

Type F is an older spec. So Is Mercon III. You can use today's "Mercon" rated ATF your PS system no problem. It's what I would use. And Ford now recommends "Mercon" be used in your tranny.

However, "Mercon V" is different from regular "Mercon" and should NOT be used in either system.

 

Rockledge,

I flushed the system (unplugged coil and it worked fine) today and ran about 3L of Type F through, topped her up and bled the system. It seems better but I'm still not satisfied. You mentioned Mobil ATF synthetic (Mercon rated) as an alternative. If I chose to try Mobil 1 can I chase Type F as a flush with Mobil 1 or do I need to drain flush and fill as before? This is to say that if the two types of fluids co-mingled in the PS system would there be a problem?

Flush and fill with Mobil 1 would be a little more costly.

Just wondering.

Gil

 

Gil, if you have the fresh fluid in there now, you should give it a week or so of driving before determining whether the procedure worked well enough. During that time any remaining air should be purged out of the system. I like to even take my vehicle to a large parking lot and turn the wheel lock to lock at a moderate speed, almost as if driving between cones, which keeps a load on PS system a little bit while the pump rpms are consistent.

BTW, how old is the PS pump on your truck? If it's an older pump, then I might even be inclined to recommend the Lucas Power Steering additive, it has helped many old Ford PS pumps quiet down.

 

Hello,

I will drive it a while and see what happens. Like I said before at least the leak is fixed (replaced both lines). The truck is a '91 with 205,000 miles so it's been around a while. I was looking in at the PS pump yesterday while the truck was running to see if I could "will" the pump to quiet down and I was wondering the same thing (ie. is the age of the pump an issue?).

Maybe I'm over critical of the noise. It's not too bad but I hate spending $100.00 and a couple of hours on a job and not having it come out "perfect". When it comes down to it I'm dating a hot, curvacious, blonde super-model and not pleased with the situation because I prefer redheads.

We'll see how it goes in a week. About the additive...?

Gil

 

I'm not a real big fan of additives, but when it comes to the PS system, I will make exceptions if I have too. And the Lucas PS stuff has worked for me in the past, on both a '89 Taurus and '93 Sable that I used to drive.