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A friend of mine has a 1989 150 5.0 4x4 and it won't start. The story goes back about a year, whith sudden stops, and after a while it starts again. But now it's dead. Fuelpump works, pressure in the line, no spark at the plugs, no codes except 11-system pass, and it cranks. Tested the ignition coil (ohm-meter) and it seems ok due to Haynes. Need urgent help.
Last edited by alarsso444; Jul 6, 2004 at 02:44 PM.
just went through the same thing. cost me right around $100.00 to fix a $30.00 dollar part. tow bill. anyhow mine was doing the exact same thing changed ignition module been running fine ever since
A friend of mine has a 1989 150 5.0 4x4 and it won't start. The story goes back about a year, whith sudden stops, and after a while it starts again. But now it's dead. Fuelpump works, pressure in the line, no spark at the plugs, no codes except 11-system pass, and it cranks. Tested the ignition coil (ohm-meter) and it seems ok due to Haynes. Need urgent help.
Don't know if it makes any difference, but the stops seems to come when letting off the throttle, like slowing down for a turn or similar.
I have a similar problem on my 88 f-250 5.8L. It cranks and cranks but no start. I can smell gasoline which tells me it's flooding itself. I checked the spark a while ago, and it was fine. I was wondering if this could be due to a ignition module failure??? any help would be appreciated.
I have a similar problem on my 88 f-250 5.8L. It cranks and cranks but no start. I can smell gasoline which tells me it's flooding itself. I checked the spark a while ago, and it was fine. I was wondering if this could be due to a ignition module failure??? any help would be appreciated.
Since it's smelling rich AND you have spark try removing the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator,if you find gas thats your problem. Otherwise check fuel pressure & make sure it holds steady.
Since it's smelling rich AND you have spark try removing the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator,if you find gas thats your problem. Otherwise check fuel pressure & make sure it holds steady.
87 XLT, I don't have a pressure gauge to measure the pressure on the fuel rail, but I did as you said, and I pulled the vacumn line off the regulator and I had tons of fuel in that line. I'm assuming that my diaphragm is broke. Would this cause a no-start condition??? Also it looks like I would have to remove the manifold to get to the fuel rail to replace the regulator. Do you have any advice for replacing it myself.
87 XLT, I don't have a pressure gauge to measure the pressure on the fuel rail, but I did as you said, and I pulled the vacumn line off the regulator and I had tons of fuel in that line. I'm assuming that my diaphragm is broke. Would this cause a no-start condition??? Also it looks like I would have to remove the manifold to get to the fuel rail to replace the regulator. Do you have any advice for replacing it myself.
Well the good news is that you now know exactly what the problem is. The bad news is that I have no idea how to change the FPR on your particular engine. A Haynes manual will tell you how to do it, and hopefully the manifold will not need to come off. Good luck with it.
Well the good news is that you now know exactly what the problem is. The bad news is that I have no idea how to change the FPR on your particular engine. A Haynes manual will tell you how to do it, and hopefully the manifold will not need to come off. Good luck with it.
87 XLT. From the looks of it, I would have to remove the manifold, but I'm not sure. My question for you is...would this bad of a regulator cause a no-start condition???
87 XLT. From the looks of it, I would have to remove the manifold, but I'm not sure. My question for you is...would this bad of a regulator cause a no-start condition???
Yes, that is the reason it wont start. The raw fuel is being sucked in thru the intake manifold & theres no way the spark plugs can ignite that much fuel.
Changing the FPR on my 87 Ranger was quite simple, remove 3 screws & the fuel lnes. Sounds like it might be more complicated on yours. You can get a Haynes manual at an auto parts store-about 15 bucks- & read what is involved on your particular engine. Then it's your choice to replace yourself or have it done.
I would still try the ignition module. It is easy to replace and not that expensive. Ask the auto parts store if you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem. If you ask first and ask the right person, sometimes they will let you do that if you return it in new condition.
I would still try the ignition module. It is easy to replace and not that expensive. Ask the auto parts store if you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem. If you ask first and ask the right person, sometimes they will let you do that if you return it in new condition.
i was under the impression that the ignition module is only relevant to no-spark conditions, and I seem to have good and constant spark. Let me know if I am mistaken
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