Even trickier is getting the bypass hose in place without disturbing the end gaskets. Hoist or no hoist. That part was the biggest "gotcha" Ford ever did to us. If I ever do another FE I'm gonna plug both ends and do without it.

 

99% of all my recent builds, in the last 15 years have been race engines. How I install an Aluminum or iron intake is the below.

1. Clean all surfaces.
2. Cut the tips off both front and rear cork intake manifold gaskets.
2a. Install intake to head gaskets.
3. RTV sealant bottom of cork to block on front and back gaskets.
4. Place intake or weights on top of cork gaskets and let set for a couple of hours until cork gaskets are firmly in place. This reduces the possibility of gaskets slipping.
5. Replace bypass hose with new one if you want to run one. I do not in racing applications.
6. remove weight or intake and place sealant on top of cork gasket and liberally glob sealant on all four corners where you removed the cork tips.Apply sealant around all water ports, on intake and heads.
7. Using a aluminum intake makes this next step easy, Lower front of intake so the bypass hose goes over the tube on the water pump, and then lower intake in place.
8. Start intake bolts on all four corners to align the intake.
9. Start the rest of the intake bolts.
10. Tighten bolts per instructions, starting in the middle and working out per diagram.
11. I tighten intake bolts to 35 lbs. in three stages. 15/25/35 for iron intake, 25 lbs. for aluminum.
Some don't use cork gaskets, but I like to, for positive height alignment of intake manifold, and less likely to create a oil leak.
Edelbrock has pictures of tightening sequence.
Remember, if you have the water pump off, install the intake first and that makes it much easier to install bypass hose. Only four bolts on water pump.


https://www.jegs.com/InstallationIns.../350-71051.pdf

 

My install is similar but I trim the tips at a angle to match the angle of the head (around 45 degrees), gasket lays flat but you don't have the void where the tab was.
I also leave the top of the cork gasket dry, grips the intake better with less chance of slipping out.

 

If you give the cork gaskets time to seal with silicone between block and cork gasket, the gasket will not move. Using silicone on top of cork between cork and intake makes for a solid seal. Not using silicone on top of cork gasket will eventually leak oil, as the cork gets saturated. Nothing worse than having a oil leak from the back of the block, leaking down to the garage floor. Ask me how I know....LOL

 

Probably closer than I said but was able to start all 4.

 

I have stabbed the distributor in place to align the intake before starting the bolts. I haven't had any problems ditching the cork gaskets and using a gasket maker; although I'm certain that others here have more experience with these engines than myself. I haven't been able to figure out how to put a torque wrench on some of the bolts with the tools that I have.

 

Nothing wrong about using the distributor to help align the intake. After loosely installing the first four bolts, on each corner. Most quality intakes do not have an alignment problem, but every once and awhile you do find a intake that causes problems with installing the distributor. If you would rather not use the cork gaskets, that is up to you. Just use lots of "right stuff" sealer. For me, I have used the cork for many years without leaks, but you can have good results both ways. Using short wobble sockets or extensions works. Torque values do not change to any significant degree. A good tool shop has them.