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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

pyrometer install on 2004 6.0L

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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 02:10 PM
  #16  
04 LARIAT STROKER's Avatar
04 LARIAT STROKER
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From: fresno, oh
HP, thanks for the response...If it isnt too much trouble for you to send those pics, that would be greatly appreciated...another questions though, what do you mean by tap them 'shallow"?...what about the boost gauge?...where is the best place for that...thanks alot
 
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 02:52 PM
  #17  
Hayapower!'s Avatar
Hayapower!
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From: CA
Originally Posted by 04 LARIAT STROKER
HP, thanks for the response...If it isnt too much trouble for you to send those pics, that would be greatly appreciated...another questions though, what do you mean by tap them 'shallow"?...what about the boost gauge?...where is the best place for that...thanks alot
04 LARIAT STROKER

I have the pics at home..

I'll put them in my gallery tonight, or email them to you.. If I don't forget!

Tapping 'shallow' means to run the tap 'not quite' as deep as you would normally when 'pipe tapping' ..say... 1/4, 1/2 or greater thickness stock/material.. When you tap with a pipe tap, you generally only thread or cut 'about' half the way into, or down the tap.. Sometimes a smidge more.. And when you thread the pipe fitting in, it will start to tighten/pinch at about half way down the fitting..This is good.. If you cut/thread down half way on a thin piece of material, the 'area' that the threads bite onto is reduced, and can cause the fitting to go too deep, and might not tighten correctly, or bottom the fitting out against the hex end.. Not what you want..
Tap shallow to begin with, test fit, and if needed you can always go deeper..

The easiest place to hook up the boost line would be the MAP sensor line.. A quick 'T'' into the line..

..................................HP.............. ..........
 

Last edited by Hayapower!; Jul 14, 2004 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 03:11 PM
  #18  
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va_redneck
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Shenandoah Mountains
Originally Posted by 04 LARIAT STROKER
I want to put gauges on my 04...wanted to konw what the issue with warranty is if i pout gauges on...will they void my warranty...is there any way to put them on that can be covered up if needed?...When i put the boost gauge on, is there any way to do it without drilling any holes in my motor...on the egt's, is it best to leave the manifold on or take it off?...thanks guys
You have to drill no mater what. I have boost and pre and post pyros. I tried to drill and tap inplace for the pre pyro. many people have had luck but with the shavings and I was not happy with my tap job I ended up dropping the manafold and welding on a bushing/sleave that I had on standby.

The Post I put in a new SS exhaust so I drilled and tapped in before istallation and put a locking nut on both sides.

I opted to tap my boost infront of the manafold to get the most accurate reading. Although I doubt that there is any significant deviation at that point from any other.

good luck!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 10:58 PM
  #19  
Hayapower!'s Avatar
Hayapower!
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: CA
Originally Posted by 04 LARIAT STROKER
HP, thanks for the response...If it isnt too much trouble for you to send those pics, that would be greatly appreciated...another questions though, what do you mean by tap them 'shallow"?...what about the boost gauge?...where is the best place for that...thanks alot

04 LARIAT STROKER

Couldn't email you.. Feel free to email and I'll attach them, or there's 'some' pics in the gallery ..

............................HP.................... ......
 
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 09:55 AM
  #20  
04 LARIAT STROKER's Avatar
04 LARIAT STROKER
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: fresno, oh
HP, looks like you have plenty of toys...so on the egt probe, i shouldn't put the tap all the way through the manifold so that when i put in the probe it it tightens before it bottoms out the head...right?...that way when it starts to get tight it will be because it is threading through the untapped part of the manifold...sorry to be so stupid about this but i want to make sure i do it right...i dont feel like messing up my $40,000 truck!!!

What kit did you get to do it with...i have heard that some of the kits don't come with enough wire and tubing to do a complete install.

thanks a lot
 
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 11:46 AM
  #21  
Hayapower!'s Avatar
Hayapower!
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From: CA
Originally Posted by 04 LARIAT STROKER
HP, looks like you have plenty of toys...so on the egt probe, i shouldn't put the tap all the way through the manifold so that when i put in the probe it it tightens before it bottoms out the head...right?...that way when it starts to get tight it will be because it is threading through the untapped part of the manifold...sorry to be so stupid about this but i want to make sure i do it right...i dont feel like messing up my $40,000 truck!!!

What kit did you get to do it with...i have heard that some of the kits don't come with enough wire and tubing to do a complete install.

thanks a lot

Pipe thread is a 'tappered' thread.. So.. you only need to thread down the tap 'about' half way.. The starting threads/edge of the tap will cut threads all the way into the manifiold, but DO NOT thread the pipe tap all the way through the manifold/hole.. The deeper the tap goes, the larger the diameter the hole will be.. And, being that these manifolds are relitively thin , tap it 'less to begin' with, and then test fit the fitting.. If you don't tap enough...No big deal.. Just thread it back in and go 'slightly' deeper.. But if you 'over' tap, the fitting may not tighten enough, and also won't give you any extra threads should the fitting come loose ect. But, the most important thing, is to make sure you do a clean job, and don't leave any shavings/bits in the manifold.. Remember.. Start very small on the drill bits, and graduate up to eliminate any large pieces..

The gauge pictured is the ISSPRO R3607GR EV Pyrometer.. Almost an 'exact' match to the OEM gauges.. Backlit and all.. and you can get/order the thermocouple (probe kit) with 'either' a band (clamp on), or thread style fitting (pipe thread).. And what ever leadwire lenght you need.. Mine was 10 feet (R660-10), but could of used less.. With the probe in this location, it's an easy reach through the firewall grommet to the gauge/amp. The kits when ordered, should have everything needed to complete the installs, including the boost gauge.. Some fittings may be required for hook up, depending on where you tie in for boost..

The EGT kit I ordered, had a band clamp as part of the gauge kit, but could be 'upgraded' to the pipe thread style probe/fitting for a few bucks more..


Don't worry about asking questions.. It's part of what this site is about..
Should you need any help along the way, its just a post/email away, as many members have done the install/s..

Give Motorhaven a shot at your purchase, to help support this site..

.............................HP................... .......
 
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 12:45 PM
  #22  
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DMAX-HD
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I've drilled and tapped all mine with the motor running. The particles blow-out and don't go through the turbo. You can grease your bits also - particles stick to the bit.


WHERE SAFTY GLASSES
 
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 03:43 PM
  #23  
IB Tim's Avatar
IB Tim
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From: 3rd Rock
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Originally Posted by DMAX-HD
I've drilled and tapped all mine with the motor running. The particles blow-out and don't go through the turbo. You can grease your bits also - particles stick to the bit.WHERE SAFTY GLASSES
Excellent idea never thought of that
 
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Old Jan 10, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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pepsf250
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Thanks For Info.
 
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