I was at a RV dealer a couple of days ago that had put one of the new model Reese 18K hitch in the bed of his '03 F350.

This is one of the new hitch models that doesn't leave the 5er hitch base rails on the bed floor when removed. (Something I want very much in "the new rig".)

He told me that they had to actually unbolt the truck bed itself and raise it off of the frame about 1/2" to get the underbed rails installed. BUMMER!

I was considering Reese until I heard about the above dfficulties. Obviously, I don't want to tackle my own install with this situation!

Anybody have an alternative reccomendation??? (I don't need but 15K capacity, but do want the 4-way pivoting head.)

Thanks!

 

Try looking at the B&W Companion hitch. From what I hear it's an easy install. I'm also currently in the market for one and I'm still deciding.

 

BEWARE... If you want a flat bed, DO NOT GO WITH THE REESE/DRAWTITE SIG. SERIES. I bought one based on there advertising and the bed is not "totaly uninhibited". It leaves 4 2" dia. X1" high "PUCKS" in your bed. To their credit, they are trying to design me a new set of rails for my truck but it has been 7 weeks now and still trying to figure stress loads with Improved flush design. If it helps, check out pullrite. I wish I would have.

 

Take a good look at the B&W I have a Reese now but I like the way B&W closes on the hitch pin. It uses one jaw that goes around the pin instead of two like reese that clamp in from the side. www.turnoverball.com is there web site. one of there tow bodies and hitch will be on my next truck.

 

rvpuller, I believe Husky clamps the same way. I agree, a much better design.

 

Better take another look at the Signature series regarding the pin latch. You will find one jaw on the 18K model...don't know about the 16K.

I bought one anyway, BUT really hate I'd decided to go that way.

This is one sorry product from an installation standpoint. Take it from an owner, don't buy this product. Read more:

I had threads that had to be chased in three locations. Two with a tap and one with a 1" die. (I know all of you have these handy in your shops> Right?) The underbed rail hit the tail pipe on my '04 F250 Diesel. (Cequent Towing says they are in the process of a redesign????) Why they even specify a defective product for my truck, when they already knew about the problem. Now I'm fighting low profile nylon locknuts that Reese says a 1-1/2" wrench is supposed to fit. Well, these nuts mic across the flats at 1.441" are in a location that makes you nearly bolt-bound to begin with by design. You can't get anything but a thin-walled twelve-point box-end wrench on these nuts..not even a socket with a universal. And you can only turn one of these nuts about 30 degrees on each wrench bite. I'm either going to have to find new nuts, or maybe? find a 32 mm box-end wrench and hope that works.

And you are right about the pucks that stick up above in the bed. (Unobstructed bed access my Butt!)

Without a doubt, the worst engineered and the sorriest quality product for such an important job that I can recall...ever.

Folks, if you any sense at all, you will not buy this product. But if you do, make sure you get a lump-sum quote on installation, and do not do it yourself.

I've towed with both Reese and Drawtite products for over twenty-eight years, but this "Signature" hitch........

What a piece of junk!

 

i have a 86 f250 light duty .it came with a steel plate that was bolted to both sides of the frame .it is made of 3/4 inch steel plate with 3/4 inch bolts that that are welded to the plate .the nuts go under the top frame rail.the guy i got the truck from said he lifted the bed to put the plate in .it has a ball that is screwed in and also has a pin that goes thru the ball underneath.it works great .only one problem this truck is a light duty gross weight 6300lbs
the truck weighs 5000lbs .so much for being a 3/4ton.
have a nice day
lrd56 a happy dinosaur

 

I had the same problem with my 15k Reese . I made a 2x4 frame with the 2x4s laying on their side ( about the same height as the hitch rails in the bed ) and used 3/4 in. treated plywood for the new bed floor . If you want to totally do away with the hitch rail you can get a gooseneck hitch that is able to stow under the bed floor when not in use and has a trap door over it to keep the floor smooth . You can also get a gooseneck adaptor for a fifthwheel kingpin box so you can pull it with a gooseneck hitch .

 

Check into a RBW. I use this brand and it is detachable with two rails staying in the bed. The rails are bolted through the bed to the frame of the truck.