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I took my Mazda B3000 to AutoZone to scan because of the "check engine" light being on. The sales guy scanned it and it came up showing EVR. He suggested that it was caused by a bad EGR valve...which I then replaced. After driving the truck a day and 1/2, the check engine light came on again. Talked with the guy some more, I followed the cleaning instructions and drove it again today to get my emissions test done. The light came on again!!! The emissions guy gets the same code. Can the EVR error be caused by something other than a faulty EGR valve??? and if so, I'm pretty desparate for suggestions. Thanx.
The EGR is controlled by the EVR (Exhaust Vacuum Regulator). So if the EVR is bad or the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback Sensor) is bad, or the the EGR itself is bad, you will get an OBD-II code relating to an emission problem. All of these rely heavily on good vacuum line connections, so check all of them carefully. They get brittle and break. The EVR is a solenoid that allows vacuum to activate the EGR valve. I think AutoZone can check all three of these sensors. Generally the DPFE is the culprit in the EGR system, but any or all of the sensors could cause a problem. Check those vacuum lines carefully on all the sensors.
I agree with the feedback that you have gotten so far. A good rule of thumb is, you can let AutoZone scan your vehicle for codes, but never let them suggest that you purchase parts to repair the codes, until and unless you know what the codes mean yourself.
I agree with the feedback that you have gotten so far. A good rule of thumb is, you can let AutoZone scan your vehicle for codes, but never let them suggest that you purchase parts to repair the codes, until and unless you know what the codes mean yourself.
The local 'Zone couldn't even tell my mom anything specific on her 98 C1500 when the CE light when off a while back. They got lucky with the "It's probably the gas cap being loose" thing, but that instilled exactly no confidence in me over there "methods" of diagnosis.
I could be wrong with Ford EGR's, but on my previous 93 Isuzu truck, the EGR could be tested by pressing on the diaphragm and that would tell if it was clogged....so I wholeheartedly agree that there is waaay too much jumping the gun with codes and too much short-cutting actual diagnosis. We get many a CE light question and the common question stemming from that is "Should I just replace all my O2 sensors because of the lean signal?" If you don't understand how a semi-simple emissions system works, don't waste money by guessing at it.
The evr is a solenoid that controls the vacuum flow to the egr. It has engine vacuum applied to it and if egr is closed, evr sends no vacuum to egr. On top of evr there is a cap that covers a foam filter, if you remove cap&filter and plug vent with finger, full vacuum will be applied to egr. What can happen is the solenoid will have an electrical or mechanical problem and not send vacuum to egr. If you get a code for evr, likely electrical, since a mechanical problem, like plugged line or no vacuum would cause an egr code.
Thanks for the info so far. I actually got help at AutoZone which is how I found out about the EVR error. But the guy didn't give me the actual error codes. I have a free emissions test due me so I'll go get it tomorrow a.m., and that way I should have the exact error code to post to this list.
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