I own a 91 explorer auto that sometimes dies after driving when i stop at a stop sign or red light, sometimes i can quickly punch the gas when i hear the idle start to drop, has anyone had this problem before or know of a quick fix?-kell-

 

Sounds like there is something wrong with the IAC valve. Try doing a search in this fourm, there are post on how to clean it.

Chris

 

i got same problem with a 1994 xlt

 

I had that problem with my 92 a couple of years back when it had about 150K. It was the fuel pressure regulator. Would stall at lights and at the same high speed right turn on an exit on the way home from work. Cut open the regulator and found a bevel worn on one side of the valve seat. Sometimes it would slip to the side and stick open. Believe this is caused by the spring being off center in some units. When it didn't stick, pressure tested fine. Sticking will ocur in high vacuum conditions, like coming to a stop, when the valve opens the widest. I pulled the fuel pump fuse and wired a DVM to measure current in the cab. Spade connectors fit in the fuse clips. Normally it was about 5A and just before it would stall, the current would slowly drop to 2.5A. Aftermarket regulator was about $50. Still didn't believe it till I cut open the old regulator. Something to take a chance on and very easy to replace. BTW, after 200 miles computer didn't learn new regulator till I disconnected battery.

 

???

Ok, now how do you measure amperage on a fuel pressure regulator? The regulator only controls fuel pressure to the injectors and it adjusts it as you say by vacuum. No wires are connected to the FPR, just a vacuum line.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 18-Sep-02 AT 05:32 PM (EST)]I guess I could have made it clearer. Get a long section of two wire lamp cord and crimp two conectors on the end. Spade connectors work, I use the type for screws that are shaped in a "U" and cut off one side cause this also fits other applications. The fuel pump fuse is removed and the two wire connections are inserted where the metal fuse tabs went. The other wire ends connect to the DVM 10A input connections. Good connections are essential because you don't want to be driving down the street and have a connection come loose. At idle will be the lowest current because the fuel pressure is lower. The difference between the high and low reading when driving should not be any greater than 1/2 amp. Typically the pump current drops about 1/4 amp from when the engine is first started till 5 minutes later when the windings of the pump warm up. Remember that the the fuel system is a high bypass design. Pump current relates to pressure, ie vacuum, and not how much fuel the engine is using. Lower current at idle and the highest current when you remove the vacuum line to the regulator. Use these numbers for reference for when you drive around monitoring the current. If you are below 4A, the pump is porobably pretty worn. It's nice to have a reference for what your average pump current is.

 

Thanks for the help ill try working on it this weekend when I get some time.
-kell-