My '93 Explorer's automatic (A4LD) transmission is acting strange and I hope I can get some advice. The RPM's go over 3000 for at least ten seconds when going from 2nd to third and sometimes from 3rd to 4th gear. When the car is cold it's the worst. Then when coasting down a hill, the RPM's drop to under 1000, but when I touch the gas, they rev right back up to almost 3000. Almost like the car shifted itself into neutral or something.

I live in a very small town and asked a local mechanic who only told me that I probably needed a new transmission. I had the fluid checked and it's fine. I really don't want to get taken advantage of. Can anyone PLEASE tell me some possible things to check before I get taken?

Thanks so much in advance!

 

Sure sounds like a lot of tranny slip to me. The A4LD (LD meaning Light Duty) is not one of the better Ford transmissions. I had one in a 1988 Bronco II that I used to travel from NC to Ohio in. It would run great on flat ground but as soon as I got into the Smoky Mountains, I was better off walking. It would hardly pull hills and it would run excessive RPMs before it would shift. I would get passed by big tractor-trailers constantly. It could be in your torque converter, but if the fluid level is OK, it probably is too. Just because the fluid isn't burnt doesn't mean that your tranny is good. I never had good luck with this tranny and I promptly got rid of it. It sounds like either a new transmission is in your future or get a 1995 or later Explorer. They have far more reliable trannys in them.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-May-02 AT 09:36 PM (EST)]I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH MY 93 Explorer. Is this a set up from the FORD company? I need advice as well. I can't back up now so I think it is my transmission. I had the fluid change and went through all the same symptoms. I need a used or refurbished transmission. They told me it will cost almost $2000 I can put that down on a new care with lesser problems.

 

It's not a setup, just a case of poor engineering. I was much happier after I got rid of my A4LD on moved on to something else.

 

I've talked to a couple more people and they agree this was not the best transmission Ford's made. I'm going to try one thing Friday; it has to do with something called a "speed governor". I'll let you know if it gets me anywhere.
I really can't afford a new transmission OR a new car right now, so if anyone out there can offer anything else to try, please let me know!
Thanks!

 

Hi there,
read your post and realized that you might have the same problem as I.
Were you successful with the "speed govenor" and do you have any information where to find the little b-stard? I live in Sweden and they wan't to charge me ~$3000 to repair the transmission, so I will be happy with any kind of advise!

/Leif Engström

 

This is the start of an article I'm writing. Just started it and no pictures yet.

A4LD LOW/REVERSE SERVO IMPROVEMENT

Many A4LD, 4R44E, and 4R55E transmissions have a problem with no or delayed reverse engagement, reverse shudder/chatter, and/or no engine braking in manual low (1). Some symptoms are not very obvious but can lead to the early failure of the reverse band. This is the result of the O-ring on the Low-Reverse Servo developing a heat set and failing to make a complete seal. Every A4LD should have these O-rings replaced. My 92 transmission was rebuilt in 96 and it did not get this improved seal at that time. There is an updated "double lip" style seal made out of a polyacyrlic rubber instead of the nitrile rubber compound O-ring.. This solution was first borrowed from the C6 transmission and is now included as part of the O-ring kit from the better suppliers.

I used the overhaul kit from bulkparts.com for the 85-95 A4LD #23031 which is approximately $27. This is the Toledo Trans-Kit from SPX/FILTRAN. The two O-rings that you will need are packaged separately in the kit and will be easy to find. Replacement is no more difficult than changing the filter.

This technical bulletin can be viewed on www.atcdg.com by clicking on tech and looking for A4LD.

Another improvement is the American made glass fiber MicroFelt filter from SPX/FILTRAN.. This is also the same filter that is used in the 5R55E (#23921 for 4WD). If you have shopped for filters previously, you will remember that the 2WD versions got the filter element and the 4WD versions got just a metal screen. Evidently 4WD vehicles needed a higher flow for better cooling/shifting. The new filter is physically much larger than the old filter. There is even more filter area because the filter is folded over and welded inside to create twice the surface area. Flow restriction is no longer a problem with this filter. Be sure you order the correct long or short tube version depending on your pan design. This filter is only about $10 from www.bulkparts.com and comes with a new bolt and spacer. If the filter is ordered separately, it does not come with replacement O-rings or a pan gasket. These seals are included in the overhaul kit. SPX/FILTRAN.technical details can be viewed on www.bryco.com. SPX has the patent on this filter design #D422600 and many others.

Working on a transmission only seems a like a formidable task. Replacement of these items is easy for anyone to do without removal of the transmission. I have removed and installed the reverse servo several times and there is nothing tricky about it. The center shaft eases the alignment of the piston. The spring only requires moderate effort to compress. The only item to pay attention to is the cover which has a tilted mounting surface and mounts only in one direction. Mark the rear section of the cover before removal. Before installation, the walls on the valve body should be lightly cleaned with a crocus cloth. Remove any sediment from the housing, piston and cover with brake cleaner prior to installation of the new O-rings. Lubricate parts with transmission fluid before installation.

While the pan and filter are off, the torque on the valve body bolts should be checked. When I changed the filter on my 97 5R55E, I found all the valve body bolts were all loose. This could be the problem with many transmissions as they age. Be sure to use the correct torque. Too much is as bad as too little and will cause the plate to warp. Seven foot-pounds is not much of a twist. Transtec has a optional double thick valve body gasket kit to correct more difficult sealing problems.

The steps to replace the servo are as follows:
1. Remove pan
2. Remove transmission filter
3. Mark the back edge od the reverse servo cover. Remove four retaining screws on the servo cover. Hold the cover as the screws are removed. The spring between the piston and the valve body will push the piston and cover down. Note the cover surface is slanted and note the position.
4. Inspect for excessive wear. Lightly clean surfaces with a crocus cloth and install the two new O-rings. Lubricate piston with transmission fluid.
5. Replace (new gasket if available), cover, piston and spring. Torque bolts to specification.
6. Replace filter, old O-rings may need to be transferred from old filter
7. Replace pan gasket and install pan.
8. Fill with 3 quarts of fluid. Start engine and cycle from forward to reverse. Recheck fluid levels when warm.



TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
Oil Pan to Case 8-10 Ft-Lbs
Reverse Servo to Case 80-115 Inch-Lbs, 6.7-9.6 Ft-Lbs
Main Control (valve body) to Case 71-97 Inch-Lbs, 5.9 -8.0 Ft-Lbs

 

 

I'm getting ready to do this repair on my 1996 Explorer w/ the 4.0, but I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get just the reverse servo seal. I don't want to buy an overhaul kit when all I need is an o-ring that probably costs less than $1. Anyone have a P/N or a source when I can get just the seal? Thanks!

 

i was stopped at a red light, the light turned green and my explorer wouldnt move when i pushed the gas, the rpms would go up, i tryed it in all the gears but the only gear that would work is reverse.. what could be the problem?

 

what could cause a 93 explorer transmission to stop working in the forward gears, but not the reverse

 

Your forward clutches are toast. The A4LD may not be Ford's greatest design, but a little maintenance goes a long way. The fluid needs to be changed every 30K at the most. If the fluid doesn't perform, the pressure doesn't build properly, which in turn results in weak shifts, which results in added wear and heat, which further weakens the fluid, which in turn results in even weaker shifts. The cycle will reach a point where the trans goes into catastrophic failure.

 

meaning the whole transmission is toast, or you just need to do some kind of repairs then to get going again?