do i need a fuel pump?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Spokane
do i need a fuel pump?
Having issues with a 1995 aerostar V6 auto. Starts fine on cold start, runs great till I shut it off (about 20 min of driving) then will NOT start till engine cools completely down. Took it to a shop, they replaced an ignition module (by the distributer) for 300 bucks, didn't solve the problem. Mechanic towed it back to the shop yesterday, but I don't want to dump more money into it unless it is a fix. mechanic can't figure it out, cause it's a cold start for him, with no problems. There is NO check engine light, no warning, just cranks over and over when warm. Any help is GREATLY appreciated
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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I had a similar problem, not exactly the same. My 95 3.0 RWD would stall after 20-30 minutes if I came to a stop. As long as I didn't slow down (hiway) it would be fine. Once stalled it would have to cool completly before starting. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
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From: BC, Canada
When it wont start you need to check for spark right away. If it has no spark then the pickup coil (maybe also called a stator or trigger amplifier) could be the problem. If it has spark then the fuel pump is probably the next likely area to look at.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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I just talked to a guy with a '94 4.0 shortie, he said that his did the same thing. He said that his problem was vapour lock. He replaced the fuel pump and said that it had only happened one time since. It only happened in the summer time because of the heat buildup under the hood, heating up the fuel lines causing the fuel in the lines to vapourize. I don't know the fix for this.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
What do you mean by NO check engine light? Does that mean at all or when running or what? I would get it warmed up (since your mechanic doesn't want to take the time) and take it to him "hot" so that it will act up and he can see it....Or, if you can do it yourself, when it acts up again, check to see if it lost the spark or the fuel. That will give you a direction to look in. Your mechanic is half right..if it don't act up when he looks at it then he can only guess at what might be wrong.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Spokane
i will take those ideas into consideration.....I suggested each one of them to my mechanic and he will check em out, and assured me he wouldn't quit till he figured it out......we'll see........as for the 'no' check engine light...i mean not when hot/cold/won't start/or anytime..never seen it. Thanx for all the help
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Norfolk VA
When it is cold remove the gas cap and listen for the fuel pump when the key is turned but not all the way to start. You should hear it run for a few seconds. Now you will know what to listen for when you try it once the engine is HOT. If nothing is heard when it is hot then I would replace the fuel pump.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for the injectors that you can check for fuel and pressure. This is where you would normally install a fuel pressure guage for this purpose. Lacking one of those, you could very carefully push the little valve head to see if fuel squirts out during those times when it won't start. Before starting, turn the key to the "ON" position, and the EEC will run the fuel pump for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. If you push the valve at this time, you should get a shot of fuel out. If not, the fuel pump may indeed be failing when it gets hot.
As for the vapor lock problem, the first thing to try is to wrap the fuel lines in some kind of insulation. The most susceptible part will be the metal fuel rail that the injectors are attached to. This will be burried underneath the intake manifold, and pretty difficult to get to. The other thing is to do things to keep the underhood temperature down, or to get the heat out as quickly as possible. One possibility is to remove the gasket at the back edge of the hood so that air can escape. The heat will then enter the cowel vent, and thence into the cockpit, so it's not the best idea.
As for the vapor lock problem, the first thing to try is to wrap the fuel lines in some kind of insulation. The most susceptible part will be the metal fuel rail that the injectors are attached to. This will be burried underneath the intake manifold, and pretty difficult to get to. The other thing is to do things to keep the underhood temperature down, or to get the heat out as quickly as possible. One possibility is to remove the gasket at the back edge of the hood so that air can escape. The heat will then enter the cowel vent, and thence into the cockpit, so it's not the best idea.
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