P1443 code
Took out the air filter box, looked around at the purge controls and hosing, and gave up on any further diagnosis or repair
CEL will intermittantly go off, but always comes back on after a few miles. Changed the gas cap, that did not help. Van runs just fine and mileage is right in line 17ish in the city 19-20 on trips.
Any suggestions on how to test the solonoid and other related parts would be greatly appreciated, as I don't have an FSM and the Haynes manual, well, sucks.
Edit: what $$ am I looking at to replace the flow sensor/solonoid??
I have no clue what to look for now. I've read that the canister is fine as long as there are no cracks.
Ford should have to publish EVERY component that affects a code. As it is they have the government forcing you to go to them for service.
Isn't that restraint of trade?
I have the EXACT same problem, only my 96 Aerostar has just started dieing out when moving slowly, say in drive throughs..I still get the same code P1443 after 5 years, nothing I do takes care of this issue, but the dieing out has become a major problem for me.
Any idea's as to what to check or change to keep it from dieing?
The carbon cannister collects evaporated fuel from the fuel tank, where it is stored for later use being pulled into the intake plenum.
Between the evaporative cannister & the intake plenum are two devices. 1) Purge flow solenoid & 2) Purge flow sensor. These two devices can, when used simultaneously, test the evaporative system & also meter evaporated fuel vapours into the engine intake under ECU command.
Basically you either have a leak or a blockage in the fuel evap/ purge system, blow all the hoses with air & check the cannister with a vacuum pump if possible. The Purge valve could be blocked even if the solenoid "thumps"; blow through valve while operating the solenoid valve open & closed. Spray carb cleaner into the valve also while doing this. If you put on a new flow sensor I'd assume this to be good, but also associated wiring has to have continuity which could be a a pain to check. You can check the solenoid easily with a a bulb. With a warm engine the valve should open intermittently when engine revs rise to about 1500 (bulb will light). Blow out ALL the lines & check the pipe into the intake. I would not blow air into the cannister but check with vacuum pump for cracks.
Is fuel tank rusted through anywhere? Also I believe the PCV is connected to the same system.
Here is more info :
Ford On Board Diagnostics II, (OBD II) code P1443 means that the evaporative emissions charcoal canister purge sensor did not detect any flow when the canister should have been purging into the engine intake system. The purging, controlled by the computer,takes place when certain conditions are met, such as engine speed and temperature.What the computer operates to effect this purging is a 12 volt solenoid valve, solenoid means it has a moving piston in it which covers/uncovers ports in the valve so that flow does/does not take place. The "gunk" coming out of the charcoal canister will sometimes cause this piston to stick, resulting in purging not taking place when it should, the sensor in the purge hose detects this and sets a fault/trouble code and also turns on the "Check Engine" light. The electrical windings in these valves seldom fail, but anything is possible. To locate and check this valve, first find the charcoal canister, it will be a round or rectangular black plastic "box" with several different size hoses attached to it. If in doubt that you've found it, look at the bottom, there will be a plastic foam filter there---make sure it is not plugged up---. Once you've located the canister, start following the hoses attached to it. One will go towards the engine, follow that one along until you find the control valve that it attaches to, that's the valve that's not operating. Several things you can do now, just buy a new one and hope it is not the wiring or computer that's at fault. If you want to check it and the wiring, first, with key off, disconnect the two wire connector from it. Use a 12 volt test lamp, turn the key to "run" and check for current at both wires in the connector, one sould have current. Next, connect the test lamp between the two wires in the connector, start the engine and let it warm up, then run the engine up to around 1500 RPM or so, the test light should come on, if it doesn't, then it is the wire that was "cold" when you checked for power at the connector. or the computer. If the light comes on, then it is the valve. Remove it from the vehicle and clean it with an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner,use the "straw" that comes with the can and spray the cleaner into both hose nipples on the valve, alternately spraying and shaking the valve. When you no longer get brown "gunk" coming out of the valve, reinstall it in the vehicle, but leave, if possible, the hose from the cannister disconnected. Start the car and let it warm up, (if need be), now raise the RPMs to 1500 or so. valve should now open and a vacuum should be present at the open nipple. If so, the problem is cured. On some OBD II equipped vehicles, repairing some problems will cause the computer to turn off the check engine light if the fault is no longer detected, other vehicles require that the computer be interfaced with and the code purged with a scan tool.
When you find the problem it'll be a feeling of some sort of achievement!
Good luck.
ATB Aeroman.




