Vic, I'm looking into the SCMT and I don't know what everyone is talking about in regards to the EGT? I know it's Exaust Temp. but does the SC read the temp? or do I have to install a bigger exaust with a temp. sensor in it? I have a 04 6.0.
What do I need??? I would like more MPG I pull a 14' dump trailer.

 

You need to have a set of gauges to do that. Most have them, and are on the "A" pillar post. They could have two or three. It is a direct readout, I watch mine more than any gauge on the dash.
Turbo boost, EGT’s and maybe Tranny temperature, you can order them from MotorHaven at the top of each one of these pages.

 

I am looking to installing the Superchip, buying it from Motorhaven. I have a 2004 F250 Lariat PSD 4x4 Automatic CC.

Question #1 Do I need to install the trans temp gauge.
#2 I will install the boost gauge, How high of a boost numeric value should I go?
#3 How high of a boost gauge numeric value?
#4The truck already has a Hot Cold trans temp guauge, or do I need a numberic one?
#5 I will be lifting the truck with a Superlift 8" all springs. Gear ratio is stock at 3.73. Will the Superchip help if I leave the stock gear ratio? Or am I better off changing the gear ratio to say 4.56 or 4.30?

 

1. yes
2. no worry, it comes the correct way
3. no option
4. IMO yes
5. either way with the SC IMO leave you gear and try it

 

I have found that Autometer Gages come in 30 and 60 pound gages. I have both because the 30 pound gage is not enough. The truck pegged it regularly. The 60 lb gage is on my truck, the 30 lb gage is in my parts box.

 

My $0.02.

I have the X-Monitor digital gauge package, that does Pyro, boost, and tranny all in one compact unit that lets you keep your door pillar handle.

#1 If you aren't towing or doing other activities that would normally result in elevated transmission temperatures then you probably don't need the trans temp gauge. Given that you are putting a big lift on the truck, this probably rules out any serious towing and leaves the more obvious off roading application. Others on this forum will need to comment on what kind of tranny temps they see for serious off roading. I've done some trail driving but no rock climbing or other stuff with the truck and not seen any higher tranny temps then normal driving.

#4 The truck's stock trans temp gauge is only slightly better than an idiot light. It comes up to mid range while the tranny is still fairly cool and stays there through as hot as I've ever seen while towing on my truck, ~about 192 deg F. I can watch the trans temp vary from 165 deg F to 190 deg F and the needle on the factory gauge never moves.

#2 and #3 I have seen a maximum boost so far in the Hi performance tune of 32.7 or 34.7, I forget which now. Some people recommend a 40 lb gauge, and some, like me, figure a 35 lb max gauge should be good enough. Each truck is slightly different in the max boost it makes. Generally most folks report numbers of around 24 or 25 lbs stock with a few reporting as high as 28 lbs. With the tuner installed and running the high output program, the boost goes up and the median boost numbers that I see people reporting for their trucks seems to be in line with the low to mid 30's numbers I gave above, with a few fliers in the 37/38 lb range.

#5 I should think that the Superchip tuner will help with any change you make to your truck. You only specified an 8" lift but no tire size. Since the truck will look pretty funny all lifted up with only the stock tires, I assume that you will be using some bigger tires too .

There is another thread that you started: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=249062 that is active right now that addresses this question directly. There are some pretty good posts in there. In that post you stated that you are only going with a 6" lift, so I guess you've changed your mind since then. I'd add that info to the above thread and monitor for replies. Depending upon your application you may need to regear, but try the new tread's first and go from there.

Daryl

 

Pretty bold statement. Wonder if thats why they include a damage liability waiver with each product?

 

Who are you quoting?

 

He's quoting Moderator Lamkin's reply to my concerns. Wish I could trust that constantly clunking the heck out of my rig's drivetrain won't hurt anything.

 

Hard shifts actually save transmission wear. Soft shifts are that way because the trans slips initally. This slippage causes wear and heat build up. The hard shifts may expose problems like too much lash in the ring/pinion gear or loose universal joints. The likelyhood of the shifts damaging something that is in good condition is practally nil. The failsafe is the tires spinning "chirp" instead of the trans slipping.

 

I have decided not to support DAX0.
How and why I will not get into....this is proprietary information.

If you have a DAX0, it must be updated before installing the tuner.

 

You're trying to make this abit more cut/dry than it really is.
It all depends on your stock calibration, etc....

For the most part, an 03 straegy truck will make more power than an 04 strategy truck.
The gains with the tune are the same (darn close), so the 03 truck will still be faster after tuning. A tuned 03 truck usually makes close to (or a little over) 700 ft lbs at the tire (superflow) and a tuned 04 may only make 640.

"That's just the way it is"
Same gains...just less power overall because it made less stock.
I'm not going to get into specifics as to why the strategies are different because it's considered proprietary information.

 

Because I will have your stock files and I can flash them into any truck (equally equipped and optioned of course) I want =o)

I'l spend some time driving it and make adjustments if necessary.

 

It's important when changing tire sizes drastically to change your gear ratio to create the same (or close to) stock effective gearing at the tire.

In other words....if you trade your 31" tires for 38's, you will need to get a lower (numerically higher) rear end to maintain correct effective gearing.

Just for some random numbers:
If you have 31" tires and a 3.73 gear, but switch to 38" tires, you will need to switch to a 4.56 (or maybe more aggressive gear) to maintain an acceptable 'at the tire' effective gearing.

Falure to do this can create excessive load on acceleration (stock or modified), make your truck accelerate more slowly and isn't exactly something that makes the transmission happy.

Again, all this has absolutely nothing to do with tuning. It should be done regardless.

 

Well said...

There is a fair amount of slop in the drive train....that's natural.

Increased line pressure and quicker shifts get the shift over with more quickly and generates less heat.

What happens when you drive a manual transmission vehicle and just "shift it" quickly and normally with no slip.....your clutch leads a normal life.
Now, start slipping it a little with every shift and see how much more quicky it wears.

The tranny in the 6.0L is a simple hub/clutch assembly (no bands).
It's very strong to begin with and the more aggressive shifting is actually better for the tranny.

Less slip = less wear.