My boss has warped rotors on his 2002 f-250 and he told me that his mechanic said that you cant turn the rotors on his truck or else they will be out of spec so he is just gonna deal with it. sounds like a bunch of bs to me. have any of you put new rotors or turned them on your truck, if so how much was it for new rotors if you cant turn em

 

He should get a second opinion. New rotors are easy to put on as well as cheap.

 

Most rotors can be turned up to a minimum thickness, which is usually cast into the rotor somewhere. Cheap rotors often don't have much thickness and can't be turned much or at all. I am told the el cheapo Chinese specials are that way. Because they are thin, they also warp easier, thus requireing turning or replaceemt sooner.

Everytime you turn a rotor you cut down a bit on it's service life and increase the chance it will warp. Usually not a problem with quality rotors.

I don't know about your model year and whether they are thin or what, but replacing rotors is usually not difficult.

Ford only sells entire wheel hub assemblies, something like $250 parts, junk yards also sell complete units, about $150.

The rotors, at least on my 94 250 are removable and can be purchased for between $40(China special) and about $90(NAPA Lifetime) I bought Raybest 5 year guarantee for something like $70 and they were beautiful and so far haven't caused any problems in about 30K miles, about 1/3 of that towing a trailer. I bet there is a replacement for your 350 for much less than Ford would do it.

The prices I mention are about 3-5 years ago and are for a 94 F250.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

i know the rotors on my 1990 f 250 were only like $35 (which have lugs and races in it) a piece but on my sisters focus they are $80 and the focus rotors have about a thrird the material, so i just figured it was a new car thing to have expensive rotors.

 

ChaseFace,

Whatever you do, DON'T SKIMP ON BRAKES!!! Tell your boss that, too. If he/she has to replace the rotors, then suggest he/she replace them with quality rotors, not cheapy's. Besides what others have mentioned in reply's (above), the weather where you're at (Flagstaff, AZ) can be quite cold and when brakes heat up, the heating and contracting can easily warp rotors.

Nutshell: get the good rotors!!!

DS

 

I asked this same question in the 7.3 PSD forum yesterday, but haven't gotten any response so I thought I'd try it again here.

My ART rotors and pads are on their way and should be here on Monday. I am planning to get started on Tuesday changing them out. I am considering ordering the flex hoses someone mentioned for the back if I think I can get them here in time. Stil have to check on that. How much brake fluid should I have on hand when I get started with this? I would like to completely flush/bleed all the old brake fluid out and replace it with new brake fluid. Also, I am sure it is listed in my manual at home, but I'll go ahead ask here, exactly what brake fluid do I need to get?

 

Obe point not mentioned thus far that I see...
improper (or uneven) torque on the rotors has caused more warping than anything...
do them all to about 145-155 and ensure they are torqued sequentially...
may not be the right description...
but say 50 per nut until snug and then evenly until to spec...
NOT 150 on one - then 100 on another... guaranteed warping if u do that!