Would replacing the hubs take care of the 4x4 light flashing at panel? I just had the right front replaced ans still nothing!

 

i'm surprised the GEM did not fix that problem?? I'm posing a question to the other guys out there. does the light come on when the gem tells it to or does it when it thinks th e truck is in 4wheel drive??? is there some relays that could be bad or switches???

 

Heidi try this, leave your truck in 2wd on the **** in the cab, and manually lock the hubs, then crawl under and turn the front drive line if it turns a little then locks up and won't turn then the hubs are locking in, but if the driveline is able to turn then the hubs are not working, keep turning the driveline and watch the axle shaft u-joints in the knuckles on each end of the axle tubes which ever one is turning is the hub that is not working,
now unlock the hubs and put your t-case selector **** in the 4wd position and drive it around the block leave it in 4wd with the hubs unlocked and try and turn the front drivline again if you can't turn it the the t-case is locking up if you are able to turn it, the t-case has a problem,
a quick question does the t-case go into 4 low?

a little piece of info for some of you guys that want to install manual hubs, the hubs for the older trucks will fit in the superduties, even though the spindel/hub assemblies are different they still work,

 

I think the light comes on just like the manually shifted t-cases, there is a detent switch that turns the light on, I'll check it out when I get home to make sure,

 

I seen the thread on the changing of the hubs and can handle that. Are the bearing serviceable or are they sealed and require replacement if making a whine. Ford told me the whole assemblies are $400 + and there are three different types depending on the brake configuration and date of manufacture. I just replaced the vacuum module which controls the 4WD and if leaking sends your airconditioning through the defrost vents. Every thing seems to work now but I have the noise in the left hub which I will check this weekend. Thanks for all the info on this site, saves a lot of money.

 

Hubs are sealed units and that price sounds cheap. Sometimes you can find then on ebay new from guys who have ditched them for the Dynatrac setup. Heidi, (lots more ladies around lately) for a maximum of $200 you can replace your auto hubs with manuals (very easily)if that is what is wrong. Then you never have to worry.

 

you can buy the bearing/hub assy at autozone for about 250$ a side

 

My truck has both manual locking and electric switch. Neither have ever worked. I will say that since I replace the r/f hub assembly that the 4x4 light doesn't flas on and off as much. But still, no 4x4 wheel drive. I'd rather stick with you guys and your ideas since I've had so much trouble the past 5 years with the dealers. Oh, and I tried to buy aftermarket hubs and factory at other places than dealer and that's a no go since the truck is a '99, so the hub cost 450 at dealer. I'll tell you one thing, without the 4x4 the truck isn't worth a crud, even if there is a little mud. I live off a dirt road and I can hardly make it up hill if it's rained. The rear tires will spin like no tomorrow. Even with B/F AT tires. SO, gotta do something before this winter. My ex had the truck for two years and I just took it backed anr refinanced it for another five. Sometimes you can hear clicking in thr fornt and I have seen the diff rotate. It makes since that there could be a switch/or sensor fouling because of the A/C. I will look into that this weekend. Keep it coming! You guys a re great!!!!

 

I've just finished installing the 3rd set of hubs on my truck. I haven't even made it to 50,000 miles yet. This was the first set I had to pay for. So I know what you're going through. If your 4wd is not working it's most likely the hub\bearings. I only had 4wd when I put the hubs in lock position. It seems when they start to go the auto feature goes early.

I too have an early model 99. I would if I had a later model just buy from a parts dealer with lifetime warrenty. You then just have your time and and about $50.00 worth of seals.

Off Road Unlimited has a kit in the pipe. I talked to them about two weeks ago. The kit was supposed to be 30 days out. It will replace everything from and including the stub shaft out. You'll then have warn hubs and timkin bearings that are much cheaper and servicable. The kit runs $1,600.00 which is more than factory replacment parts. You just will be rid of the junk bearing unit.

I couldn't wait for the parts to maybe come in 30 days. My dealer sold me my bearings for 379.00 each. It's the price they would sell to other service centers, I believe. That's same price as Fordparts.com I think.

It's not that complicated of a system. It just has to have everything working in order to work. The longer you go with bad bearing the more you have to replace. First it's the bearings, then the outer shaft could get trashed. That means you have to buy the whole shaft assemble from the dealer. Then the hub selector also gets trashed by all the play. By the time you're done you have over a grand on just one side.

It all sucks, but at least they can assemble it in 1.4 minutes on the line.

 

Dynatrac also sells a kit to do the same thing. Right now it is extensive and expensive but I have heard that VERY shortly they will have a basic (read=cheaper) kit.

 

Heidi, I live in your area so I can sympathize with all the rain we have had recently. Try the diagnostics that skipped_link outlined and post your findings.

Depending on what is or is not engaging will help the rest of us give you options. I have not had any luck with dealers in VA for ANY service work.

 

Actually, it was dynatrac I talked to. My bad, after searching all over for something, I got it confused.

 

I looked at Autozone and NAPA on line and they both have complete hubs with bearings for around $260. I can't remember which one, but one of the sets had TIMKIN bearings in it.

 

Well I solved all my problems with front wheel drive, I traded the truck of for a new Ford Diesel F250 4X2. Needed the diesel for my 2005 trip to Canada for the summer. I didn't think I could afford to take a gasser on that long a journey.

You'all have a nice day.
fknipfer1

 

Well is seems that, 99 sd V10, you've got the solution. Which makes me want to cry. I'm going to try the simple things first, but it makes since that the whole shebang needs to be raplced. The dealers threw parts as they went, which is why I never could get the truck under the lemon law. So, it makes since that as one was reaplced which was the worst, another was going bad. It is so frustrating I can't even see straight. What ever happen to the good ol' manual shifter on the floor? I'm about ready to pull it all out and redo the truck the old fashion way (has anyone done this?) I don't believe it's the bearings any longer so I'll be looking at the shaft. It might be why the manual locking doesn't work even with the hub/bearing assemby replaced. What do you think?