Adding Cruise Control
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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The factory harnesses is what changes the wiring,the installer just does a plug & play install.
Here is what you need for the change-over.
Cruise control swap
Parts required listing.
Cruise Contol module (Underdash)
Cruise Control wiring (Underdash)
Cruise Contol actuating device on Intake
(Carb linkage chain,bracketry,Vacuum pod)
Vacuum actuation device harness
Vacuum Canister and hose to rear of intake.
Brake Booster FT-38 ,or FT-43
Brake Pedal & Pedal Assembly
Cruise Control shutoff switch
Horn relay & wiring
There are numerous threads about this in this forum.
Here is one of them.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...+control+swap+
Here is what you need for the change-over.
Cruise control swap
Parts required listing.
Cruise Contol module (Underdash)
Cruise Control wiring (Underdash)
Cruise Contol actuating device on Intake
(Carb linkage chain,bracketry,Vacuum pod)
Vacuum actuation device harness
Vacuum Canister and hose to rear of intake.
Brake Booster FT-38 ,or FT-43
Brake Pedal & Pedal Assembly
Cruise Control shutoff switch
Horn relay & wiring
There are numerous threads about this in this forum.
Here is one of them.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...+control+swap+
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,043
Likes: 4
In answer to your question, Yes the wiring in the column needs to be changed. What you change is the turn signal switch assembly and integral harness that includes contacts for the cruise control.
In addition to Dennis's list:
Turn signal switch,
Steering wheel (cruise control specific)
Horn pad with cruise switches (might or might not be with the wheel).
It's not as hard as it sounds and I added it to my truck in an afternoon. 2 if you count the time removing the system at the junkyard. Your best bet is to find a fresh carcass at the salvage yard and get the whole system before it can be parted out.
In addition to Dennis's list:
Turn signal switch,
Steering wheel (cruise control specific)
Horn pad with cruise switches (might or might not be with the wheel).
It's not as hard as it sounds and I added it to my truck in an afternoon. 2 if you count the time removing the system at the junkyard. Your best bet is to find a fresh carcass at the salvage yard and get the whole system before it can be parted out.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Hi Sup,
As I have done the swap as well & it is my experience that,
The turn signal switch harness & connector is the same for both cruise & w/o cruise.
The swap requires a special harness that plugs into the T/S switch & uses the normally Horn circuit, for the Cruise wirng circuit.
The horn gets a new circuit with a Relay.
This new harness plugs into the amplifier as noted in the list.
As I have done the swap as well & it is my experience that,
The turn signal switch harness & connector is the same for both cruise & w/o cruise.
The swap requires a special harness that plugs into the T/S switch & uses the normally Horn circuit, for the Cruise wirng circuit.
The horn gets a new circuit with a Relay.
This new harness plugs into the amplifier as noted in the list.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
Likes: 21
From: Northern Illinois
Well I am in the middle of swapping out a non-tilt cruise column over to a tilt non-cruise column.
I figured I would have to change the wiring harness from the original over to the non-tilt cruise column, but according to you Dennis it sound's as tho they are the same? I guess I will find out when I get to that stage. Right now I am waiting on some bearing's and stuff from Jeff's Broncograveyard to come.
I figured I would have to change the wiring harness from the original over to the non-tilt cruise column, but according to you Dennis it sound's as tho they are the same? I guess I will find out when I get to that stage. Right now I am waiting on some bearing's and stuff from Jeff's Broncograveyard to come.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 353
Likes: 1
From: Saskatchewan, Canada
Aw Mil1ion, you linked to my post!
I feel so useful and important
!
Now seriously,
Modrisco, you can use your orginal harness. I did this swap just altered the existing harness to accept the curise, there are only a few wires that need to bee strung, most from the steering column. All of this is faily simple... if you have past electrical experience and feel comfortable messing with your truck's wiring. Otherwise I would suggest swaping it out, just remember that it is ALOT of work to remove the harness.
Also if you do decide the rewire the existing harness it would bee in your best intrest to get a factory diagram. It will outline everything you may require. Not having one you would probably have a malfunctioning cuise/truck or worse (maby better I have not seen you) an instant hair do!
(oh boy am I funny)
Good luck, JJ
PS Sorry when I said "it is ALOT of work to remove the harness." what I meant was that it "looked" like alot of work. I was not feeling particulary ambitious at the wrecker and did not even atempt to remove the harness. You may try, and find that it was quite easy I can't say.
I feel so useful and important
!Now seriously,
Modrisco, you can use your orginal harness. I did this swap just altered the existing harness to accept the curise, there are only a few wires that need to bee strung, most from the steering column. All of this is faily simple... if you have past electrical experience and feel comfortable messing with your truck's wiring. Otherwise I would suggest swaping it out, just remember that it is ALOT of work to remove the harness.
Also if you do decide the rewire the existing harness it would bee in your best intrest to get a factory diagram. It will outline everything you may require. Not having one you would probably have a malfunctioning cuise/truck or worse (maby better I have not seen you) an instant hair do!
(oh boy am I funny)Good luck, JJ
PS Sorry when I said "it is ALOT of work to remove the harness." what I meant was that it "looked" like alot of work. I was not feeling particulary ambitious at the wrecker and did not even atempt to remove the harness. You may try, and find that it was quite easy I can't say.
Last edited by jj292; Jun 11, 2004 at 09:56 PM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Likes: 24
Okay, The tilt & non-tilt T/S wiring harness are identical.
Basically what ford did was use the existing horn circuit as the circuit power & cruise actuating source.
Through some Interesting wiring they added a new Horn Circuit with Relay as the 78's didn't have relay (that's why the horn always sounded so weak).
That's why the harness for the T/S is the same.
Without the cruise harness completely hooked up,to get the horn to honk,I press the ON switch for the cruise.
So...This wiring interrupts the column connection and runs to an amplifier which by yet another harness, is also hooked up to the underhood harness.
One day when I have nothing to do online and I have all of my 146 projects done, I will write a Tech Article.
I found the hardest thing to find was the correct Brake booster & pedal assembly.
All the other stuff was easy.
Basically what ford did was use the existing horn circuit as the circuit power & cruise actuating source.
Through some Interesting wiring they added a new Horn Circuit with Relay as the 78's didn't have relay (that's why the horn always sounded so weak).
That's why the harness for the T/S is the same.
Without the cruise harness completely hooked up,to get the horn to honk,I press the ON switch for the cruise.
So...This wiring interrupts the column connection and runs to an amplifier which by yet another harness, is also hooked up to the underhood harness.
One day when I have nothing to do online and I have all of my 146 projects done, I will write a Tech Article.
I found the hardest thing to find was the correct Brake booster & pedal assembly.
All the other stuff was easy.
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,043
Likes: 4
I didn't know that the cruise wire could be retrofitted to the existing TS switch. I don't think however that the extra wire and contact is available seperately. If you're pulling from a junkyard doner I would get the whole TS switch anyway.
Removing the TS switch and INTEGRAL harness is not hard. First and most importantly DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES. You have to disassemble the gray semi-circular connector at the bottom of the harness. You do this by removing the red plastic piece in the end of the gray connector. Then the wires can be removed from the connector and pulled up the column. In your truck I would pull a couple of strings up the column to use to pull the new wires back down the column.
Removing the TS switch and INTEGRAL harness is not hard. First and most importantly DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES. You have to disassemble the gray semi-circular connector at the bottom of the harness. You do this by removing the red plastic piece in the end of the gray connector. Then the wires can be removed from the connector and pulled up the column. In your truck I would pull a couple of strings up the column to use to pull the new wires back down the column.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
OK I think it would be a good idea to use the t/s switch from a truck with cruise. Now what is the difference in the brake booster and pedal? I would like to thank everyone who answered the post.
Mitch
Mitch
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,043
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There is auxiliary cut off switch that shuts off the cruise system when you step on the brake. This switch won't fit on the pedal you probaby have. I think the standard pedal has a pin welded to the shaft of the pedal and the one for cruise control has a removeable bolt.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Other way around on the pedal.
The present Non-cruise brake light switch is a plastic switch that mounts on the right side of the pedal.
Through the source of the cruise control wiring harness that switch becomes the cruise shut-down switch while the new brake light switch is attached to the pin on the inside of the pedal lever.It is a special metal cage style switch that is spring loaded.The motion by this switch is Minimal but requires the pin style pedal connection for slack.
The non-cruise pedal has a bolt that is bolted tight with no slack.
I have to say again..... There ISN'T any difference in the turn signal switch + harness + Grey connector on the steering column.
Changing it accomplishes NOTHING unless it is bad/faulty.
The proof of this can be seen in the haynes manual.
It shows the interrupt cruise control harness that changes the circuitry around.
You will find that where the grey connector on the cloumn is the wiring is the same up to the horn pad or w/cruise to the cruise buttons.
Now..... If you are going from NON-Tilt to Tilt.... that switch is physically different.
If you can hang on until tomorrow, I photograph the needed parts & post them.
You have to determine which brake booster you need by establishing whether there is a pivot linkage mounted to the booster & Firewall or whether there is a straight inline pedal linkage directly to the booster.
The present Non-cruise brake light switch is a plastic switch that mounts on the right side of the pedal.
Through the source of the cruise control wiring harness that switch becomes the cruise shut-down switch while the new brake light switch is attached to the pin on the inside of the pedal lever.It is a special metal cage style switch that is spring loaded.The motion by this switch is Minimal but requires the pin style pedal connection for slack.
The non-cruise pedal has a bolt that is bolted tight with no slack.
I have to say again..... There ISN'T any difference in the turn signal switch + harness + Grey connector on the steering column.
Changing it accomplishes NOTHING unless it is bad/faulty.
The proof of this can be seen in the haynes manual.
It shows the interrupt cruise control harness that changes the circuitry around.
You will find that where the grey connector on the cloumn is the wiring is the same up to the horn pad or w/cruise to the cruise buttons.
Now..... If you are going from NON-Tilt to Tilt.... that switch is physically different.
If you can hang on until tomorrow, I photograph the needed parts & post them.
You have to determine which brake booster you need by establishing whether there is a pivot linkage mounted to the booster & Firewall or whether there is a straight inline pedal linkage directly to the booster.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,043
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Dennis, I think I know what the disconnect is. I installed it on a 76. On a 76 and earlier with cruise the Steering wheel is different than non-cruise wheels. The cruise control wheel has 2 slip rings that work with 2 different spring loaded pins on the turn signal switch. 1 pin/ring carries horn current, the other carries cruise control signal. Non cruise equipped trucks had a steering wheel with only 1 slip ring and the TS switch had 1 spring pin for the horn circuit.
77.5 and later (which is what you guys are discussing) had a different wheel and I can see where they could have used the same wire for both horn and cruise.
77.5 and later (which is what you guys are discussing) had a different wheel and I can see where they could have used the same wire for both horn and cruise.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Okay, here is the pin out for the 78 T/S connector.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...loomwiring.JPG
Here is the corresponding connection with wires.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...lconnector.jpg
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...loomwiring.JPG
Here is the corresponding connection with wires.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...lconnector.jpg
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
column wiring
The pictures look the same as my non cruise column. If this is a cruise harness picture thetwo harnesses appear identical. Is the tag with the part # still attached? It would be interesting to see if it is the same.
Mitch
Mitch