When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1975 trailer special with factory air, cruise, tilt & power steering. Every now and again, the entire electrical system will shut down. It is not the ignition module, and several ford certified mechanics have looked at it and are stumped. any tips or advice?
My '74 is outfitted just about the same, minus the tilt wheel, and did the same thing a few times. In my case it turned out to be the wiring plug that plugs into the back of the ignition switch.
The plug had vibrated and backed out very slightly. This caused the plug contacts to have a reduced contact area and heat up, causing distortion that lead to intermitant failure. I could grab hold of the plug and press it into the back of the switch and everything would start working again, for a while.
When I finally replaced the plug I found that three of five donor junkyard trucks (all '73 or '74 models, I did not look at anything newer) showed the same heating and shape distortion. Not sure, but I bet it is a fairly common problem.
check the battery cables real good, I had a truck that would do that every once in a while, still not sure why it did it but cleaned the terminals and clamps real good, and checked the wires, tightened them real good, never had another problem.
engine will crank, but all other engine electrical will shut down. tried new super coil, and two new factory coils, to no avail. sometimes it will start after about 30 seconds, other times it takes about 25 minutes. engine is a 460, and loves her gas, but upon shuting down, no excess gas is evident.
Thanks, the truck does have electronic ignition, the module is hard to find, different than my 79 or my 76, but when I did finally manage to buy a new one, it made absolutely no difference. Since then, I found a used one, and still no luck, same problem.
Only thing I know to do is carry a test light or meter with you. Get either one you have prepared to check voltage on the + side of the coil. Next time it quits, hook the test light or meter to the + of the coil and ground. With the key in run, see if you have voltage at the coil. If you don't, then maybe you should look at the ignition switch like the other poster said.
Just had another thought. If you are not into testing and meters, you could take with you a piece of wire that will reach from the battery positive to the coil positive. When it quits again, jump out and hook this wire to the battery + and the other end to the coil + and see if it will run.
I had experience the same problem and the ignition module tested fine. The ground however from the battery to the frame to the block was discoved to oxidized and the sourse of my problem. I replace the cable, cleaned the connections and havn't had a problem since.
I hope your fix turns out to be that simple.
Good Luck