I have searched the forums and havent found a good answer yet. I want to buy a COMPLETE exhaust system, New headers all the way back to the tail pipe, where do I find a set of good headers that will bolt up to a high flow cat and then back, thanks

 

Doesn't Bank's do that?

 

Banks is what I'm going for here in about six months. Expect to pay about $1,500 for a Banks Power Pack. But that everything Torque tube headers, new air intake, and Ottomind computer mod.

 

Banks and Borla. Keep the stock cat. It flows just fine.

 

Banks, among others do this. The important thing to look at is A; quality of parts, which Banks has and B; design. Header design is very complicated. But basically longer, smaller header tubes are better for torque. Shorter, bigger diameter header tubes may give you increased upper rpm horsepower. Header technology now is amazing, I've seen graduated, stepped tubes, different collector sizes for different applications, all kinds of options never available before. With dyno technology and engine management computers the way they are we can pinpoint exactly where an engine is lean, rich, making hp, making torque, etc, etc. The great thing with Banks is Gale Banks is a hot rodder/racer/tuner/enthusiast to the max. His V-10 headers (torque tubes he calls them) are made the way are to maximize power across the best operating range for a truck. And the entire system all the way back is awesome, and will last a long, long time. Ken

 

Has anyone replaced the headers on their V-10 and had problems with the bolts breaking? I would hate to ruin a block with stripped threads in the exhaust.

 

Yes yes yes, and I wasn't too happy about it. I broke the three rear studs on both sides, and each corresponding stud broke off the same way -- both rears broke off with almost no torque whatsoever, flush with the head, the next ones up broke of with a little effort, inside the head, and the third(s) from the rear broke off leaving some of the stud exposed enough to get some vise grips on them.

I don't use the truck, and it's part of a project anyway, so when I get to working on the engine, I'll easy out them. I was unable to get them out with the engine in the truck, and I would have been REAL upset if I would have needed to get it back on the road. If you can get those broken studs out with the engine in the truck, I'd love to hear how.

BTW, it has 72K miles on it. If yours is fresher, it is likely to be easier. I've heard of people running without one or two studs, but I can't imagine missing the last two or three on each side and not having exhaust leaks.

If you break one, you're not ruining anything. You CAN get them out, but it may be more work than you're capable of or equipped for. If I couldn't cope with the possibility of having to extract a broken stud, I'd get someone else to do the whole job.

 

Broken not stripped seems to be the problem. They seem to come out easily once the stock manifolds are removed. That is what I have read anyway.

 

Yes, they come out easy, but the problem is getting a hole for the easy out drilled in them. There just isn't enough room with the heads in the truck, and unless you want to replace head gaskets and everything else that goes along with a head removal, you gotta pull the engine to get to them. Of course, you could always just remove the front clip.

Maybe there's a way, but I couldn't see it, and when I asked, I got zero responses with a solution...

 

thanks for the info. I like to know what to expect before I take on a job. I deal with broken bolts alot, but I realize there is no room to work with. My Blackbeater is a 99 with 65,000 miles is a daily driver, and I am not williing to live without my truck for longer than a weekend for broken bolts. I'm looking to add some horsepower and a little economy with a complete exhaust. Just making the plans for the future...

 

I don't know if there would be enough room but using a wire feed to spot a nut or washer or what ever to the top of the broken bolt has worked for me several times.

 

Now that's a good idea. I think that may be easier and safer that chancing buggering up the threads while drilling for an easy out. I don't have a wire feed, I only have an Oxy/Acetylene rig, but I've been planning to get one since I'm gonna have to weld up the exhaust myself. Is it possible to get down in the bolt hole a little with a Mig without ruining the aluminum heads?

 

Jrice I don't think that you have to worry about ruining the threads. Just a spot weld, not laying down a fatty. Even if you got a little splatter around the top thread when you back the offending bolt out it should chase the aluminum threads, right?
Like I said I have done it several times before but only on cast steel.
A small spot weld seems to hold better than a easy out, In my opion.

 

Broken Exhaust bolts are nothing new on Fords. Both my 460's had braken manifold bolts in the most difficult spots, passenger side back under the air box. Never repaired any of them. Good luck with fixing that. I did use an easy out to get an exhaust bolt out of a 72 f250 with a 390 by using a hole saw to put a nice big hole in the plastic inner fender. And used a long drill bit (or extension) to get to the bolt from outside the truck.

 

I think the big trick to these v10 aluminum heads is to spray the bolts with penatrating oil the night before and try taking the bolts out in the morning when the engine is cool. That way the heat does not cause the bolts to be tighter. I would suggest tapping on the bolt with a small hammer first to loose any gaulling from the aluminum around the bolt threads. Just my 2 cents worth.