I thought I would ask becuase i have gotten conflicting stories on the subject..... I have an 02 with the Gold antifreeze(what its called, i'm not sure). Anyway cavitation was a concern of mine as soon as I was introduced to it on this site. I have been told that the later models with the gold coolant already has the cavitation additive in it, and i've also been told that it either doesn't, or that i still need to add the additives. I now have 25000 miles on the truck and am starting to get nervous due to not knowing whether i'm damaging my engine or not. Anyone have the scoop on the subject? Thanks guys..

 

You're fine, don't fret. Your "02" came with the yellow/gold from the factory and is protected from cavitation. No additives needed.

Yellow/gold claims are that it is good for 100K miles but I'm changing mine out after 2 1/2 years and 50K miles, just because.

Do not mix any green coolant or add any SCA to the yellow/gold, ever.

If you ever get a coolant bypass filter, get the non-charged filters.

If you need to top off. Use the factory Motorcraft coolant or the Zerex G-05.

 

Heatstroked,

I have an early '99 PSD and I think it has what is referred to as the "green" coolant. I just bought the truck used and I am thinking I should change the coolant just to make sure it is good. What antifreeze should I use? Do I need to use the SCA additive as well?

gmelton

 

gmelton, yeah your truck needs the coolant additive. You can buy the test strips from Ford or International ( cheaper there, as always ) to test your coolant before you decide to flush your system. The instructions are on the box and it is quite simple to test.

 

Can you change over from the green to the gold?

 

This is my personal opinion based upon my short ownership of a new "02" PSD and a member of a few PSD Forum's:

If you have an "02, or "03"" that was produced, shipped and purchased with the yellow/gold factory coolant, then you do not have to add any additives and you should top off with Motorcraft Gold/yellow or Zerex G-05 coolant. Good for 100K or 5 years. You decide when you want to flush and renew and the water to coolant ratio should not be less than a 50/50 ratio depending upon environment/temps in your region of the country.

Owners of 99's through early 02's that have the green coolant:
1. Keep the green coolant and service as needed. Test regularly with the test strips to a SCA level of 3.0 or better. Top off with the appropriately rated coolant. (Not yellow or gold).
2. Or, if you want a trouble free coolant system (99-early 02), completley flush your coolant system and replace with the yellow or gold extended coolant. Good to go. No additives and no SCA checks.

 

Thanks heat, thats the info i was looking for..

 

Too much SCA can be nearly as harmful as too little.

3.0 is close to too much, 1.8-2.4 works the best, or so I've heard.

My Evans coolant requires no addatives, no water, no pressure, and is good for a half million miles. I like it.

 

OK, I have listened to this cavitation stuff as long as I can without saying something. I spent 23 years in the chemical industry working with pumps and other equipment. Cavitation occurs when the suction of a pump is starved resulting in a lowered pressure exerted on the pumped liquid which in turn lowers the boiling point of the liquid. Bubbles form in the liquid (it begins to boil) and the violent explosion of the bubbles while they are in contact with the pump materials cause erosion of the pump impellar. From what I can tell, this SCA is a ph modifier. PH has nothing to do with the ability of the system to pump the liquid but rather is an indicator of the corrosiveness (or lack thereof) of the liquid. So what connection does this SCA have to do with cavitation?

 

Freddie,
FYI:

UNDERSTANDING CAVITATION

In elastic media such as air and in most solids, there is a continuous transition as a sound wave is transmitted. In non-elastic media such as water and in most liquids, there is continuous transition as long as the amplitude or "loudness" of the sound is relatively low. As amplitude is increased, however, the magnitude of the negative pressure in the areas of rarefaction (pockets of low pressure) eventually becomes sufficient to cause the liquid to fracture, causing a phenomenon known as cavitation.

Cavitation bubbles are created at sites of low pressure as the liquid fractures or tears because of the negative pressure of the sound waves in the liquid. As the wave fronts pass, the cavitation bubbles oscillate under the influence of positive pressure, eventually growing to an unstable size. Finally, the violent collapse of the cavitation bubbles results in implosions, which cause shock waves to be radiated from the sites of the collapse. The collapse and implosion of myriad cavitation bubbles throughout an ultrasonically activated liquid result in the effect commonly associated with ultrasonics. It has been calculated that temperatures in excess of 10,000̊F and pressures in excess of 10,000 psi are generated at the implosion sites of cavitation bubbles.

EFFECTS ON ENGINE COMPONENTS

Air can enter the system through leaks or through a faulty radiator cap. This leakage reduces cooling system pressure and increases the potential for the formation of bubbles in the coolant. These bubbles will eventually cause an increase in pitting of the metal surface in the cooling system. Water pump impellers and the housing itself can be the victim of cavitation caused by low system pressure or by air trapped in the system. Radiators and heater cores can also be damaged by cavitation caused by the same condition(s).

PREVENTING CAVITATION

Since cavitation cannot be prevented entirely, the use of supplemental coolant additives (SCAs) is necessary to provide a continuous protective coating on the metal surfaces in the cooling system. This coating will aid in controlling and limiting the damage done to the engine as a result of cavitation.

The single most important procedure in controlling damage caused by cavitation is keeping the cooling system clean with periodic flushing. The use of clean water combined with flushing agents will scrub the system of impurities, scale or other buildup allowing for a "fresh start" with the introduction of the new anti-freeze/water mixture.

When servicing the cooling system, always check for leaks or faulty pressure caps. These conditions can cause air leakage into the cooling system, reduce system operating pressure and allow the formation of bubbles.

 

I skim read most of what was said above and now I have a question/concern. Lately I've noticed my coolant slowly going from a "healthy", clear green, to a dark, polluted green. I've also noticed that the coolant level is slowly but surely dropping. I've heard of this cavitation business and it doesn't sound pretty. If this trend contiues, what will happen and will I have to have a new block installed?

Upon reading this, you may think of me as being negligent towards the well being of my PSD. But I'm not the one who pays for the repairs and the maintenance. I just don't want to be out of a vehicle that I need.

 

FastFreddie

Go to the tech articles section of this site. Scroll down to the cooling section and you will find an article about "hot diesel runs cool" or something to that effect. This article provides a lot of insight on diesel cavitation.(and coolants)
Like yourself I have seen lots of chemical/hydraulic/fluidpower pumps and the cavitation word threw me off. Once you read the article it makes things fall into place better.

 

Will do. Thanks

 

Evans coolant sounds good to me too. I found the website after I read your remark.
How do you completly remove the water from you engine after you flush out the old? Or can you mix what little remains after draining and not worry about it?

 

i see you changed your avitar again....nice tailgate