Distributor Swap?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Kirkland, WA
Distributor Swap?
Is it possible to swap the module-controlled (non vacuum) distributor for a non-module controlled (vacuum advance) distributor? Pros? Cons?
My local auto parts store has both types for the I-6. I've had several ignition modules go bad on me and I'd like to go the vacuum advance route if possible.
The color codes are different on the two distributors. There are six wires going into the module controlled type and three wires into the other type.
Non-Vacuum type Distributor Wires/Colors
(wires going into wiring harness that plugs into module attached to dizzy)
Blue
Yellow
Red
Yellow/Blue
Green/White
Black
Vacuum tyupe Distributor Wires/Colors
Black/White
Violet
Orange
If it will work, anybody know what wires I should be hooking up?
My local auto parts store has both types for the I-6. I've had several ignition modules go bad on me and I'd like to go the vacuum advance route if possible.
The color codes are different on the two distributors. There are six wires going into the module controlled type and three wires into the other type.
Non-Vacuum type Distributor Wires/Colors
(wires going into wiring harness that plugs into module attached to dizzy)
Blue
Yellow
Red
Yellow/Blue
Green/White
Black
Vacuum tyupe Distributor Wires/Colors
Black/White
Violet
Orange
If it will work, anybody know what wires I should be hooking up?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
One is a TFI and the other is a Duraspark II They are totally different types of ignitions and are not interchangable. You can switch from one to the other; but, you can't mix and match parts.
The one with six wires is the TFI the one with three wires is the Duraspark II.
A common change is to remove the TFI system and install a DSII in its' place; however, this takes getting together all the parts for a DSII completly removing the TFI system and then installing the DSII system.
You can get the specifics on this proceedure from two articles on "The Ranger Station" site look under ignitions the two articles are specific about the proceedure.
The one with six wires is the TFI the one with three wires is the Duraspark II.
A common change is to remove the TFI system and install a DSII in its' place; however, this takes getting together all the parts for a DSII completly removing the TFI system and then installing the DSII system.
You can get the specifics on this proceedure from two articles on "The Ranger Station" site look under ignitions the two articles are specific about the proceedure.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 13
Yes you can I just did this on my 1984 f-150. You will need a Durspark II distrubutor and a Durspark II module (blue tab is the easiest to get and use) and wiring Harness for a duraspark II vechicle. It really is pretty cloe to plug and play. You can use your coil. Your wiring harness will also have a green wire on it it goes to the negative side of the coil. the module will have two connectors one a four wire which your wiring harness will plug into and a two wire plug (red & white) this will plug into an existing connector on the fender well that durrent supplies power to your old system. You may notice the wire colors cross over here but it is ok it is wired right. Just make sure the wire colors going to the distrbutor match the wire colors on the distributor. You will have to spice in the wire form postive side of the coil it is current spliced into the white wire going to the distributor.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Kirkland, WA
I installed a DSII distributor and a GM HEI module per the instructions on gofastforless.com. I have power to the coil and spark out of the coil, but nothing out of the (new) distributor. I've checked and double-checked my connections and they are just as is shown on that diagram.
Has anybody else done this modification? Any feedback or things to check when troubleshooting?
Thx - DORN
Has anybody else done this modification? Any feedback or things to check when troubleshooting?
Thx - DORN
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Kirkland, WA
Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
Did you install the rotor in the distributor? Is the rotor turning when the engine cranks? Did you run a good ground to the HEI module?
Thx - DORN
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
Your grounding sounds fine - I did the same installation to my '86 and it works fine.
I guess you could look at timing to make sure you're not 180 deg. out on dizzy installation. Can you confirm power to the module when the key is on and when starting?
I guess you could look at timing to make sure you're not 180 deg. out on dizzy installation. Can you confirm power to the module when the key is on and when starting?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Kirkland, WA
Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
Your grounding sounds fine - I did the same installation to my '86 and it works fine.
I guess you could look at timing to make sure you're not 180 deg. out on dizzy installation. Can you confirm power to the module when the key is on and when starting?
I guess you could look at timing to make sure you're not 180 deg. out on dizzy installation. Can you confirm power to the module when the key is on and when starting?
I never changed the timing. When I replaced the dizzy, I put the new one in exactly how the old one came out. I also double-checked everything and even triple-checked most stuff. Even if I was off my 180, I'd still be getting spark wouldn't I?
I have power to the HEI module (Pins B & C) when the key is on. I'll verify tonight whether I have it when the motor is starting/cranking.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 817
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Post what you find - it's starting to look like it may be a module problem or coil problem. Basically, there is nothing left - If you getting spark out of the coil - either your not sending a dizzy signal to the module to fire or the module isn't working.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Kirkland, WA
Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
Post what you find - it's starting to look like it may be a module problem or coil problem. Basically, there is nothing left - If you getting spark out of the coil - either your not sending a dizzy signal to the module to fire or the module isn't working.
Thx - DORN
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
Most auto parts stores can test the module to make sure it works. Have them test it a couple of times to make sure of results. Although, it sounds like yours may have been dead out of the box. I'll have to do some resurch on the distributor - I have a Chiltons that may have a test. Will look tonight.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Kirkland, WA
Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
Most auto parts stores can test the module to make sure it works. Have them test it a couple of times to make sure of results. Although, it sounds like yours may have been dead out of the box. I'll have to do some resurch on the distributor - I have a Chiltons that may have a test. Will look tonight.
Pin C - Lights light when key ON and turns to strobe when engine is cranked. This pin is wired to the (-) side of the coil.
Pin B - Lights light when key ON and slightly dims when engine is cranked. This pin wires to the (+) side of the coil.
Pin G - Nothing when key ON or when engine is cranked. This pin is wired to the purple wire coming from the DSII distributor.
Pin W - Nothing when key ON or when engine is cranked. This pin is wired to the orange wire coming from the distributor.
Any ideas? Seems like nothing is being sent or received between the module and the distributor, or is it just a signal that does not show up on my crude test light?
Should I have power to both the positive and negative side of the coil when the key is ON? I was under the impression that only the positive side should have power?
Thx - DORN
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
It seems that you have isolated it down to the sending unit in the distributor. Your testins was good. You don't always need a meter to do good trouble shooting. It looks like the sending unit in the distributor is bad. You should be getting a signal from the distributor when it's cranking. Your module should be good. Will your local parts store test the distributor for you?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Kirkland, WA
Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
It seems that you have isolated it down to the sending unit in the distributor. Your testins was good. You don't always need a meter to do good trouble shooting. It looks like the sending unit in the distributor is bad. You should be getting a signal from the distributor when it's cranking. Your module should be good. Will your local parts store test the distributor for you?
Thanx again for your help on this. I'm just pulling my hair out!