fuel system
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Senior User
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From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
fuel system
1985 Bronco II 4x4 2.8L V6
ok, II just replaced the starter in my bronco II today, and now it is having a harder time to start than before. the starter is working fine, but it seems the fuel is not going through the line to the plugs (this is what my mechanicly inclined friend said when he was looking at it while I tried to start it- he was the one who reaplced the starter for me).
So, my fuel system most likely has something wrong with it. My computer system as well might have problems, I will go test that in a few minutes. I tries to test it with a tester but it was not working right (or so I think, we will see) and I took it back and got a meter.
Some one mentioned that the something in the fuel system might mess up the computer, so I think they might be tied together. Keep in mind, I have no problems with the vehicle once I get it running.
Any thoughts or suggestions from anyone?
ok, II just replaced the starter in my bronco II today, and now it is having a harder time to start than before. the starter is working fine, but it seems the fuel is not going through the line to the plugs (this is what my mechanicly inclined friend said when he was looking at it while I tried to start it- he was the one who reaplced the starter for me).
So, my fuel system most likely has something wrong with it. My computer system as well might have problems, I will go test that in a few minutes. I tries to test it with a tester but it was not working right (or so I think, we will see) and I took it back and got a meter.
Some one mentioned that the something in the fuel system might mess up the computer, so I think they might be tied together. Keep in mind, I have no problems with the vehicle once I get it running.
Any thoughts or suggestions from anyone?
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Senior User
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From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
been trying to pull the codes since I got the truck X-p Im taking it to autozone tomarrow. and Ill go from there.
I dont know if I made it clear, it starts, but only after turning over 4 or 5 times... sometimes it'll turn over 6 or 7 and I stop and wait for a second as not to burn up the starter :\
I dont know if I made it clear, it starts, but only after turning over 4 or 5 times... sometimes it'll turn over 6 or 7 and I stop and wait for a second as not to burn up the starter :\
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
I'm familar with that thread. If it's just slow starting try cycling the key on and off a few times, then try starting it. By doing this you will build fuel pressure and if it starts right up then the check valve is leaking and allowing the fuel in the line to drain back into the tank.
Postmaster
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From: UT
Originally Posted by Ken00
Yep, turn it to "on", the fuel pump will run for a few seconds, turn it "off", repeat this several times to build fuel pressure.
I really don't know my way around carburators, and I know even less about feedback carburators. But the kinds of things that come immediately to mind:
1) a fault in the choke.
2) float problems
3) clogged jets/valves in the carburator
4) a fault in the feedback control (EEC-IV) system.
1st piece of advice is to get the EEC-IV tests to work so you can check the EEC-IV system.
2nd piece of advice is to get a hold of a good manual. I don't know if DIY manuals like Chiltons/Haynes will have enough info, but it might be a good place to start (check at a local library or see the vehicle specific repair guides at www.autozone.com). Maybe Ken will have some information, since he seems to have access to a lot of different manuals.
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Postmaster
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From: UT
I got my copy of Haynes out. Here's what I got.
From the Troubleshooting section at the front of the manual:
Hard start (warm or cold)
1) Bad/discharged battery (include in this bad cables/connections)
2) fault in fuel (already suspected) or electrical systems
3) carburetor needs overhaul
4) Distributor rotor dirty/damaged
5) Choke stuck/inoperative
6) Air filter clogged
Since fuel is already suspected, I went to chapter 4 and looked. found a fairly detailed description of how to test the fuel pump. May want to review it. Also fouind a long list of things to check when approaching carburetor problems, beginning with checking vacuum hoses.
Since it seems to be working well now, maybe it was just something left over from changing the starter that needed to work out. Review some of these things just in case the problem resurfaces.
BTW, did you ever get the EEC-IV tests to run?
From the Troubleshooting section at the front of the manual:
Hard start (warm or cold)
1) Bad/discharged battery (include in this bad cables/connections)
2) fault in fuel (already suspected) or electrical systems
3) carburetor needs overhaul
4) Distributor rotor dirty/damaged
5) Choke stuck/inoperative
6) Air filter clogged
Since fuel is already suspected, I went to chapter 4 and looked. found a fairly detailed description of how to test the fuel pump. May want to review it. Also fouind a long list of things to check when approaching carburetor problems, beginning with checking vacuum hoses.
Since it seems to be working well now, maybe it was just something left over from changing the starter that needed to work out. Review some of these things just in case the problem resurfaces.
BTW, did you ever get the EEC-IV tests to run?
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From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
no, if I can actualy get around to it I'll take it to autozone and see if they can. But since you brought it up, do you know what kind/size of 'jumper' wire I need to test with a meter, I tried a plain old A/V wire that I had laying around and even (as stupid as it is) a paperclip. One thing did happen when I was trying to test with a meter, there was a click from the engine as soon as I turned the key to start the test. Nothing after the click though.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
No special kind/size wire is needed. Paper clip should work fine. The click from the engine as you turned the key on was the computer entering the KOEO test. The click is from various relays and such that the computer controls. As it enters the test, it's checking to see if all is well. After that click, you should have gotten some voltage pulses representing the codes. Double check that you had the meter hooked up correctly (positive lead to positive batter cable, negative lead to self-test output lead of self-test connector). If it's all hooked up right and no codes are being output, then there's likely a broken connection between the computer and the self-test connector.
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From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
well crap, Im possative I had it hooked up right, Im not sure where to go from here then. Im not even sure if I wanna get into the electric stuff at the time. I need this truck to be reliable, which at the time it is starting and running just fine and I do not want to screw something up. I'll still check at autozone because I have been known to be missing one tiny little detail with stuff like this even when I check check and double check. Hopefully its just human error on my part.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help