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Do the injection pump adjustments have any effect on hard starting under 40 degrees? I checked 7 glow plugs just with a test light and they all tested OK. My wait to start light only stays on for about 3-4 seconds, but I don't try to crank it over until the clicking on the relay stops. Sometimes I have to let it cycle 2-3 times before she'll start. I couldn't get to the eighth plug to test. Any input is appreciated.
Do the injection pump adjustments have any effect on hard starting under 40 degrees? I checked 7 glow plugs just with a test light and they all tested OK. My wait to start light only stays on for about 3-4 seconds, but I don't try to crank it over until the clicking on the relay stops. Sometimes I have to let it cycle 2-3 times before she'll start. I couldn't get to the eighth plug to test. Any input is appreciated.
'93 7.3 IDIT 5-speed
You are checking the glo plugs with a test light?
Ok, I suppose that could work. Well, the way you are doing it, essentially, is checking for continuity for a ground.
If they light, then you have continuity, if they don't light, then the circuit is open and the glo plug is bad. Easiest way to check the glo plug, use an ohm meter, if you have continuity between the glo plug (where the wire connects to) and a good ground, then the glo plug is good.
Now, if you have one bad glo plug, it affects the glo plug controller, since it works off of measuring resistance. If the resistance is with in a certain value, the controller works, out of that range, it shuts down.
That could be why you have to cycle the key 3 or 4 times, because the controller shuts down too fast, cause it sees that the value is wrong. You need to check the glo plugs with an ohm meter.
Checking glow plugs with a test light gives only half the picture. You can find weak plugs instead of just dead plugs with a volt/ohmeter: with ignition off disconnect each glow plug wire and touch one meter probe to the top of the plug (where the wire was) and the other probe to the metal shell of the plug. Replace any plug that shows a reading of 2 ohms or more. Less than 2 ohms is OK. Don't forget the harness/fusible link assembly which builds resistance from heat and aging: touch one probe to the glow plug controller output terminal and the other probe to the end of each glow plug wire. If any reading is 1 ohm or more, replace the entire glow plug harness.
Forgot to add: Get to that eighth plug! As 0patience said, the controller needs to read 8 working plugs and 8 good harness connections or it will short-cycle the whole works. And you know what they say about the one you didn't get to....
Have you checked the timing on your pump? The dealership who installed mine didn't line it up perfectly and I had to crank it for several seconds to start it even when warm. I had it adjusted and now it fires right up, even cold. (I have all new glow plugs, too, but it was amazing the difference that the timing made.)
I am wondering if my injector pump is going out. It does not want to start when hot on warm days. In winter it does fine. I have been running straight Jet A for the last year and a half, but have to be on straight diesel to start when hot. It starts
fine when cold. I have not been adding oil to the Jet A either, because I didn't know how much to add