Phil, the Ford Technical Manual calls for Motorcraft AWSF22E, which Ford wants ~$6 per plug. My local Auto Zone has the following available:Autolite Resistor 103 (the plugs I removed) $1.29 ea, Autolite Double Platinum APP103 $3.99 ea, Motorcraft 437E $2.49 ea, Motorcraft 422WM $2.49 ea. I won't put in another set of Bosch Platinums. I found a refund form on the Bosch website, so when I remove these plugs, at least I'll get my money back. I looked up the Expy on the Motorcraft website and it does list AGSF22WM as a replacement plug. This is not a platinum plug. What kind of life expectancy is there on the standard vs the platinum plugs?
Keith

 

Keith,
I just looked at the box that the plugs came in, and on the cover of the four pack it is written that they are platinum type plugs. (in a couple of languages!). I ordered my plugs from a ford fleet site and I got the whole 8 plugs for $18 bucks. I just checked, but they don't have any in stock.
If you can, ask to see the number I gave you and look at the box where the four set of plugs come in, you should see that it says platinum.

All I know is that my Expy is running a lot better, and if I go as long as the originals I'll be more than happy.
Phil

 

Phil,
I found out today that the part number I gave you is superceded by the part number you gave me. Called 2 local Ford dealers. One wants $5.62/plug, the other wants $2.75/plug...guess who I'm going with?
Keith

 

Keith,
Good to hear, I also checked autozone and they have the plugs for 2.49 per, so if there is an autozone closer you might want to check them out as well.

Phil

 

I was just at Auto Zone to find out what codes the computer was spitting out. Misfire on cylinder 4. I'm considering changing just that plug to see if that resolves my stumbing/misfiring problem. BTW, I don't think that AZ carries that particular Motorcraft plug that we were discussing, although I know they carry a couple of model numbers that will work with the Expy.
Keith

 

Misfire on #4 is such a classic COP problem. It's such a bear to remove #4, is there any chance you accidentally separated the rubber boot on the COP upon removal? If the Bosch replacement doesn't correct the problem that's where I'd look next.

 

When I removed the COP, the boot looked intact. I never had a misfire indication for plug #4 before I changed all the plugs. I changed out COP #3 because I damaged it after removal. Maybe I should swap COPs with a known good one, like 1 or 2 before removing the plug.
Keith

 

It couldn't hurt to try. That way when you go back to Auto Zone have them read the code first. If the CEL code has changed to #1 or #2 you buy a COP. If no change you buy the Motorcraft or Autolite Double Plats...

Good luck

 

I posted a question before I saw this thread. My dealer who by the looks of ths tread is correct has stated that teh bosch plugs pull more than the cable and coil are rated for. I lost a #1 coil. cost more than I want to think about. Jason

 

Well, this morning I swapped COPs 1 and 4. What a PITA 4 is. Now I am waiting for a SES light and will go to AZ to get it read.
Keith

 

I have been having the same problem with my 98 Expedition with 120K miles. The hesitation is exactly like you described. This problem started immediately after I filled up with Exxon gas at a station I don't normally go to. Right after it started, it got very bad during acceleration to get onto a highway and the check engine light came on. In about 30 seconds, the hesitation stopped (can feel it about 5 times a second when it does it) and he light went out. Every time I take it to the mechanic, he can't find it because there is nothing obvious and the diag computer shows it clean. Some days it doesn't do it at all, others, it's a nightmare.So far the replacements have included, air filter, fuel filter, pcv, spark plugs. I also cleaned the intake based on recommendation from my mechanic. Before I let the mechanic replace the spark plugs, I had run two bottles for injector cleaner and also some water evaporator solution in two different tanks. Mech for a while thought it was a transmission prob and suggested turning off the overdrive. This helps, but it's still there. I think it helps because the overdrive off causes the RPMs to stay up. Seems that it happens only under a gentle acceleration and more so going up a hill (heavier load). But.. if I romp on it, I get a nice smooth 5.4L acceleration. I guess it's time to check what plugs he put in and go back to the Autolites. Seems to be worst about about 1500 - 1900 RPM.

Possible it's a bad plug cable? Wouldn't that show up on the computer? I saw another thread a few months ago about a vaccuum hose leak that was causing something similar, but I can't find it... any suggestions?

 

I've been there and done that. I found the solution to be replacing coil pack #4.

 

Update: It's been about 200 miles since I swapped COPs 1 and 4....knock on wood, no problems whatsoever.
Keith

 

There is a vacuum line that routes to the very back of the engine which is known to deteriorate at the bend and cause similar rough conditions you describe. "BigMattXXL" wrote about the condition and inexpensive repair in his "EOG" (Expedition Owner's Guide). Unfortunately I don't have the EOG anymore - didn't have the file backed up when I lost it. Maybe some of the older members may still have it and could post it for you. I bet "Buzzard" has it. You could try searching "BigMattXXL" threads but there's a lot since Matt used to be the moderator.

Hope this may be of some help.

 

From the EOG
97 Expedition PCV Valve & Hose Repair
By Rich “Rtpjunior” Perricelli

The Ford 4.6/5.4 liter “modular” engines have been known to develop specific issues that can be easily traced back to the PCV system. Although my vehicle was a 97 with a 5.4 liter motor, model years from 97-02 are basically the same. The repairs are simple and inexpensive.

Engine symptoms include:
- rough idle
- poor gas mileage
- hesitation or “missing”
- check engine light (If you have a code scanner, codes 171 and 174 have been known to pop up, explained below)
- lack of power

If you received codes 171 or 174, the Ford manual lists them as cylinder banks 1 (drivers’ side) and 2 (passenger side) are too lean. The ECM (engine computer) has corrected the fuel/air mix as lean as possible, and the motor is still running lean. Not to worry…
Anyway, a few precautions before you start. Make sure the engine is cool, get some gloves or suitable hand protection, and unless you are 7’ tall, a stepstool. Remove the small engine cover by taking out the three 10mm bolts that hold it on. Find the PCV valve. It is on the passenger side valve cover. It has a hard, black plastic hose coming out of it. Trace the hose back behind the throttle body (TB), and you will feel a rubber elbow where it connects to the intake manifold. Later model years had the hose split in a Y-fitting, but one end of it still goes to the intake manifold.
The rubber elbow at the end of the hose is where all your trouble is. Its location is such that it cannot be seen with the motor in the vehicle, so you will have to work by feel. Grab the elbow, (You will appreciate the fact that I recommended a COOL engine here) and squeeze gently. You will feel the rubber has deteriorated, and is probably cracked open. This is causing all your trouble.
Remove the PCV valve by gently pulling it upwards. Disconnect any other hoses you may have attached to it. The elbow discussed before may not come off so easily. I had to slice it open with a safety knife, and peel it off. Be VERY careful here, you are working blind, so make sure you are cutting the hose, and not a finger.
Now, you may wish to re-use the PCV valve and tubing, and just replace the rubber elbow. The problem is that you probably mutilated it while taking it off, and would be difficult to fabricate a home-made replacement. The good news is that a new one from the dealer is like $25 for the whole assembly, valve tubing and elbow. Since you should replace your PCV valve on a regular basis, spring for the whole assembly, it is easier to install.
The part # I have is for a 97 Expedition with a 5.4 L. Other model years may differ. You should reset the ECM after repairing the problem as well as erasing any trouble codes stored in memory. This can be done by disconnecting the battery (+ and -) for 15- 20 minutes.
Afterwards, your gauges should peg out at startup as a sign the reset was a success. Remember that it will take approximately 500 miles for the vehicle to re-learn your driving habits, so some “odd” symptoms may occur after the repair.