Pyro Install on 2004 F350 6.0
#1
Pyro Install on 2004 F350 6.0
Those of you that paid someone to install a Pyro gauge, how much did you pay for labor? I have been getting quotes for up to $400 for labor, and another $180 for the gauge (Banks typically). They say the labor can take up to a full day. Is this true??
I found one shop that will install the Banks for $80. This now seems too good to be true, based on the other quotes I have received. I am going to call them again for details, but the first time they claimed the guy can do it in his sleep, and he removes the exhaust manifold to do the drilling for a pre-turbo install. This sounds really good if true!
I found one shop that will install the Banks for $80. This now seems too good to be true, based on the other quotes I have received. I am going to call them again for details, but the first time they claimed the guy can do it in his sleep, and he removes the exhaust manifold to do the drilling for a pre-turbo install. This sounds really good if true!
#2
Originally Posted by n6nfg
Those of you that paid someone to install a Pyro gauge, how much did you pay for labor? I have been getting quotes for up to $400 for labor, and another $180 for the gauge (Banks typically). They say the labor can take up to a full day. Is this true??
I found one shop that will install the Banks for $80. This now seems too good to be true, based on the other quotes I have received. I am going to call them again for details, but the first time they claimed the guy can do it in his sleep, and he removes the exhaust manifold to do the drilling for a pre-turbo install. This sounds really good if true!
I found one shop that will install the Banks for $80. This now seems too good to be true, based on the other quotes I have received. I am going to call them again for details, but the first time they claimed the guy can do it in his sleep, and he removes the exhaust manifold to do the drilling for a pre-turbo install. This sounds really good if true!
The $80 sounds better to me. I installed my own (pre-turbo). Other than the time to paint the pod, and find the light dimmer wire it took this novice about an hour and a half. I could probably do it now in an hour or less.
#5
Please dont pay anyone to do this unless you have a physical dissability. I have done a few, they are fairly easy to do. the Exaust manifold is easy to drill and tap. You can order your gage and pod of choice from motorhaven.com, much cheaper than banks. Just follow the included instruction, and you shouldnt have any problems. hope this helps jerry.
#6
Please dont pay anyone to do this unless you have a physical dissability. I have done a few, they are fairly easy to do. the Exaust manifold is easy to drill and tap. You can order your gage and pod of choice from motorhaven.com, much cheaper than banks. Just follow the included instruction, and you shouldnt have any problems. hope this helps jerry.
#7
When people say they drill into the exhaust manifold, are you drilling into the bottom (from the floor) or from the top (from the hood)? Looking down from the top, it seems quite crowded, can imagin getting a drill into there. Any chance of some pictures? Is the placement into the manifold itself, or is it the pipe (one of the ports, or after all 4 ports converge??
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#8
You drill on the underside of the cast iron manifold. lay on the ground and drill up into the manifold. I have drilled mine just before where the manifold makes an upward turn. Start out with a smaller bit, and try to drill perpandicular to the manifold. then go to the size bit that is called for in the instructions. After that use a shop vac with the nipple fitting (can be purchased from wall mart in shop vac department) to vaccume out the metal shavings. then spray some oil or WD-40 or equvilant in the hole, and start the tap. be sure to back the tap out occasionally and restart it unitl tap goes all the way through the hole. vaccume again or use an allen key with a magnet attatched to remove metal fileings, then start engine and let run for a few seconds. A few metal filings will not hurt the Exaust side of the turbo.
#10
The tap is usually not included. but they should have instructions on what size drill bit and tap you need. or you could take the probe assembly to any hardware store and have them match the threads to a tap and get you the correct drill bit. After reading your post again $80.00 does seem resonable, especially if you have to buy the drill bits and tap, or if you have to paint the gage pod. I keep thinking other people have tools like me.
#11
#12
Originally Posted by n6nfg
When people say they drill into the exhaust manifold, are you drilling into the bottom (from the floor) or from the top (from the hood)? Looking down from the top, it seems quite crowded, can imagin getting a drill into there. Any chance of some pictures? Is the placement into the manifold itself, or is it the pipe (one of the ports, or after all 4 ports converge??
#13
Originally Posted by purplewg
N6NFG, click on my club FTE link by my user name and go to my web site. Click on the truck link. You will find a picture of where to mount the probe in the manifold. It is done from under the truck. Real easy access.
Whose gauge pod do you have? I was looking for a dual pod, and it looks like Motorhaven only sells a triple, not a dual. Whose gauges are they, they don't look like banks or isspro.
What path did you take into the passenger compartment, and does the probe wire disconnect from the probe for routing purposes?
So many questions, so few answers
#15
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carlsbad, California
Posts: 2,203
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Originally Posted by super duty
Does anyone know of a gauge pod that doesn't require elimination of the pillar grab handle?
The X-Monitor from BD-Power will measure EGT, boost, tranny temp in one compact package that lets you keep the pillar handle.
It is a digital display though not a conventional analog display.
Check Motorhaven, if they don't have it on their site yet, I'm sure that they can order it. You can find more info on the BD-Power web site.
Mine works great, and I also have the optional CES (cool engine shutdown) module. It keeps the truck clanking away until it has cooled down to your preset shutdown temp. Just turn off the key and get out and walk away.
If for some reason truck doesn't cool down to your preset temp, like for example you set the temp unrealistically low, the truck will then shut down after a timeout period - 5 or 10 minutes or something like that. It will also shutdown if you press the brake pedel.
Daryl