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Old May 29, 2004 | 09:34 PM
  #31  
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Bikeitswift
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From: Canyon Lake Texas
Afforable steel

I got my first "ptactice" steel free from a body shop. I wanted to work with car sheet meetal, so that was great, although old car steel and the new "high strenght" steels are different and weld different. I go to a metals supply place (look in your yellow pages under metal). You are right about HD. Most homeowners don't want a full 4 x 8 sheet, and can't carry it anyway. You'll get a full 4 x 8 sheet for what a 2 x 2 foot piece costs at HD...but they may not cut it for you. Same for agle, strap, etc, It comes in 20 foot lenghts, but my shop will chop that. I haven't looked at a scrap yard to buy from, but that's an option. I've found plenty in discarded swing sets, bed frames, etc. Folks are often glad to have you haul it away.
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 11:13 PM
  #32  
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Sberry27
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I am glad to see some guys looking at the HH series. There are some machines by the major makers just as good but none much better. These machines are a place where it pays to go for some value, cheap isnt always the bottom line with sophisticated equipment. I am sure its a lot like the code scanners,,, you might find a cheapie for 150 or 200$ but a decent reliable one that does what its sposed to is 400? Is that a fair analogy? Maybe moreso with the welders due to the machine work and the raw materials.
 

Last edited by Sberry27; May 29, 2004 at 11:23 PM.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 12:33 PM
  #33  
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"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
Bikeitswift your on the mark. Over the past 24 years I've used and owned many welders. I went over my head at the time 12 years ago and purchased a Miller Syncrowave 350 with pulser,(tig), my ability grew into this welder. 2 years ago I purchased the Miller 251,(mig), with 30A spoolgun, glad I did as I'm doing some production aluminum work. Stay away from those cheapo brands and buy a welder with the most features and highest amperage you can afford. With a tig, mig, lathe and Bridgeport my 68 F250 will be around another 37 years. Real men drive steel trucks,phony men drive plastic! MY 2 CENTS................o&o>......................... .....
 
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Old May 31, 2004 | 09:49 AM
  #34  
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toolz_not_toyz
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From: Washington
Power requirements

The majority of 110-120v MiG welders are still going to require at least a 20A circuit aren't they? I was looking at the power requirements for HH140 and it's requirements appear to be for 20A. Not all garages have a 20A outlet....I know mine, in my brand new house, does not. It's not a big deal but I think this is something that everyone should keep in mind while shopping for a new welder. If you have to wire in a 20A 120v circuit...you could just as easily put in a 220v 30A.
 
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Old May 31, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #35  
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So very true. I was in one the other day that had 15A circuits in. Having a 240V machine keeps them from being plugged in where they shouldnt be in the first place as well as providing double the power. A 175 is only 100-150 more than a 135, seems like a bargain.
 
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Old May 31, 2004 | 11:47 AM
  #36  
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In my area you have to be luckey to get a good used welder. Several times I call as soon as I see the ad, and it is always sold. Ebay is a waste of time for me as the good welders always command a high price when combined with shipping costs. I'll probably wind up just springing for a new one. I have gotten good tips from this thread. Thanks.
Dono
 
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 08:08 AM
  #37  
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fordman300
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From: clarks mills, PA
how would i go about welding cast. ive heard preheat and use nickle rod, is this correct. ive got a trany shift fork thats wore down and needs welded up and macvhined down. i can get the machine work done for nothing. so do i jhust heat it till its red then go after it with some nickle rod or what.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 09:01 AM
  #38  
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Too hot,,, here are situations where they do heat ast very hot, but its mostly really warm, just so you cant hold your hand on it and then small spots of weld. The preheat is so it cools slowly next to the welded area and doesnt crack. You might want another opinion on the forks though as there are some hardness issues that may come up and I am not real familiar with all of them.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 09:23 AM
  #39  
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jamesemery728
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Millermatic 185 Mig

I have a Millermatic 185 mig that I bought new about 4 yrs ago. It is a fine machine but Miller discontinued it shortly after I bought it. They went to a heavier machine with dual drive rollers, etc. to compete with Lincoln I suspect. Is anyone out there using a MM185 and what kind of luck have you had with it. I like mine and have never had a problem with it.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 09:28 AM
  #40  
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Just remember that some nickle rods can and can't be machined. they can be ground but not machined I would look at the lincoln welders web site to find out the exact way to weld cast or any metal for that matter. they have a very good referance liberary to find the right rod for the right job
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 07:20 PM
  #41  
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I'm not looking for a stick welder, but I saw a real good deal on a new Lincoln 225 on EBay. I waited until 5 minutes before the bidding ended expecting the price to go up. When it didn't, I reached for the mouse to buy it. The doorbell rang and I answered the door to find some kid at the wrong house. When I returned, the bidding was closed - probably fate. I am very close to ending my quest for a used MIG and will probably spring for a HH140 soon.
Question for you in the know - some of the used welders I have looked at have an Argon cylinder included, some will require me to buy one. What is that worth, do you exchange or refill, at what cost. Thanks.
Dono
 

Last edited by dono; Jun 3, 2004 at 08:19 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:09 AM
  #42  
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"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
dono; I've been gone for a few days sorry for the late return. As you stated, Argon bottle with the HH 140, Argon gas is for Tig welding or welding aluminum with Mig. Welding steel with Mig you can use Co2, 100% or what I like is a C 25 which is a mix of 25% Co2 and 75% Argon gas, this makes a cleaner looking weld with less splatter. Go high as you can on welder Amperage, later you'll do some heavy material and wish you had more power,(Amperage), also I find it cheaper on gas if you get a large bottle like a 280 cubic foot owner own not a lease or rental bottle Good luck, Carl. My $.02.
.................................................. ........o&o>...................................... ..............
 
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:20 AM
  #43  
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"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
dono; I forgot your second part question, here goes. My welding supplier "Airgas" has 280 cubic/foot bottles,owner own for $198.00 full, refills are $98.00. It's about the same price for refills for 100% Argon. I haven't tried the " Tri-mix" gas for welding stainless steel, thats later. Carl ..................................o&o>............ ..................
 
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:29 AM
  #44  
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Bikeitswift
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From: Canyon Lake Texas
My gas is cheaper

Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
dono; I forgot your second part question, here goes. My welding supplier "Airgas" has 280 cubic/foot bottles,owner own for $198.00 full, refills are $98.00. It's about the same price for refills for 100% Argon. I haven't tried the " Tri-mix" gas for welding stainless steel, thats later. Carl ..................................o&o>............ ..................
I think my setup may be less expensive. I get my 25% mix for $25.00 a refill, 120 # bottle, which I rent for $4.00 a month. South Texas.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 03:39 PM
  #45  
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dono
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Beemer Nut & Bikeswift - Thanks for the response. I did a little stick welding and Acy/Oxy welding years ago, but you could fill a library with what I DON'T know. I usually do not let ignorance stop me from doing something - I just jump in and make lots of mistakes. I have learned from this thread and others on the subject and I appreciate the help.
Dono
 
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