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A AC/DC Hobart Stickmate is under 400 and could last a lifetime. The arc quality for running sticks is up to par anywhere and if it was on the other side of the wall where it couldnt be seen I doubt anyone could tell,,, at least not apreciably that machine from a 4000$ machine running electrodes within is range. I would think some cheaper machines in its type where the technology is so simple may pass too although I havnt heard any real glowing reports of them by experienced operators. Clarke makes some machines and I know of a case where they guy had a Clarke 180 and a HH175 side by side, he said there was no contest which machine ran better and this is an apples to apples test. Hobart, Lincoln and Miller and Esab really make only one thing and competition is so intense that they have to do a good product at good prices. All Clarke and CH have to do is be cheap. I have 7 or 8 red and one blue and my next is going to be blue I think. I am not real impressed with Lincoln importing a special line for the discount store market like Lowes. They are trying to compete with cheaper machines and I feel it will be a shot to the foot in the long run. When a company that made it on quality trys to make a cheaper product it usually fails. You dont see many discount Mercedes,,, not that you can compare the 2 products,, but historically it hasnt worked well.
...how about the Cadillac Cimmaron? Now there was a bean counting genius behind that one! I've also heard (via my local welding shop salesman) that the Lincoln 225AC's at Home Depot were some special discount store low-line product, but they sure seem like the venerable "tombstones" that were in my welding class. I was about to buy one, but happened on a really nice old Miller Thunderbolt for $100.00 less, so I went there.
I am not sure about the tombstones, havnt paid much attn to them. I do know some of the feeders have a different model number, they add HD to it, I think its for Home Depot. I havnt been in to a Lowes to see what the machines are like there. I do know for a fact that the Hobarts at Tractor Supply are the mainline machines, there is no special for them. The best deal on a small stick is the AC/DC stickmate by Hobart. DC makes it professional and in small feeders the deal is the 175 or 180. Best quality, best power, best arc for the $. There are some machines in the same class that have a couple more bells and whistles but the avg operator wont notice or care. A lot of guys consider the Lincoln SP175 best in that class,,, but it costs more and the benifits are marginal and only the most experienced could probably squeeze any advantage out of it under certain conditions. I use some cheap tools too. I love chinese end wrenches, buck and a half they are great. Have some Snappy's and lots of others when needed but a cheap wrench or a cheap hammer has its place. Cheap sockets I dont care for. But, the technology that drives a feeder is different than a hammer. The sizing of the Xformer, internal wiring sizing, chokes and regulaters, good wire drive motor, is what makes them work well. Some of the cheaper machines dont even have some of the parts in them that make them work well. You can just pick them up and feel by weight that there is a lot of difference.
Hrmm. I'm in the market for a welder too. Need to fix a rusted out floor pan and repair a cross member support on the rear frame of my truck.
I have looked at the specs of Craftsman, Lincoln, Century, Clarke, Hobart. Yeah, there's CH too, but I just don't feel comfortable with that brand these days (I think it stands a little too much for "entry level").
I'm leaning towards the Clarke 130EN (with the gas conversion kit) because of the price. But I'd prefer the new Hobart HH140 because it includes the gas kit, because it has a 10 foot lead and torch line (somehow I think that is way better than everyone else's 6ft), because it can weld anywhere from 24 gauge up to 1/4" thick. The price difference between these two units (configured with gas) is about $100. Still, how often does anyone buy welding equipment? Even at $250 for the low end, it's not like you're just going to toss it if you don't like it and upgrade...not like a $30 impact wrench which you know you can upgrade when it makes more sense to have the $190 model!
At least that's the way I look at this.
I think it's also important to budget for a welding mask, gloves, maybe a flame-retardent jacket and maybe some of those flame retardent blankets (since I'm planning on replacing a floor pan section I don't want anything to blow up inside the truck while I'm at it).
$100 is $10 extra a year for 10 years, which the quality welder will easily last and then some. So you're talking about 83 cents a month to get a welder that is a superior product. Seems like a pretty easy call to me.....
so otherwise all i would use the dc for would be for a better looking finish right. so if i dont overly care about the finish then a Ac would be fine correct.
The finish can be the same with either. The big advantage of DC is running all positions, easier for vert and overhead and the selection of electrodes is greater. Its well worth it to have DC, it makes it a professional machine.
I can use my Hobart ac/dc more places then you can with a mig and do more stuff with it I have a tig set up with it as well A H.F. box so I can do alumnum better then any other welding process
Here is a thread talking about small machines for light work. Down towards the end you can see a little of what I talk about design from Darrel from Hobart. The CH style machines they check to see if it makes sparks and pitch it out the door. This one they have re-tuned the motor to keep consistancy at real slow drive speeds for sheetmetal work. http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/...5&pagenumber=2
Last edited by Sberry27; May 27, 2004 at 08:54 AM.
im also looking for a welder to learn how to weld. im leaning twards a mig, but not knowing much about welders im just wondering if all mig welders need shielding gas? im looking for somehing that doesnt need the gas and will plug into a standard house outlet. anyone got any suggustions
MIG requires gas-not flamable, but a shielding gas to keep oxygen out of the weld pool. Its the easiest to learn, but alas, need gas. Without the gas, the same machine, with different wire and a different nozzle will do "Flux Core", which works, but is smoky, splatters, and not pretty to look at, but it is a weld. You'll be limited with 115Volts, so flux core wire welder might be as good as you can get. I'm always afraid that folks will get turned off on welding because they think its somehow beyond their abilities after they use flux core. Take an evening course, where you'll get lots of hands on, get to talk it up with the others-many of whom are in your same boat. 6 months from now you'll wish you had dished out more and gone to a MIG. I got my Miller MIG used, its 115 volt, and I love it! Check the sales! Surf the net! Try Sears, Tractor Supply Store, etc.!
im looking at a hobart handler 140. its 115 volt, it doesnt need shielding gas but has the hook ups if you want to use it. do you guys know if this is a good welder to get heres a link http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/handler140.html
Folks are all raving about that HH140! Great Choice! Search around and you can usually get a deal. Try Indiana Oxygen Supply (good price, no tax, free shipping), Cyberweld, others. Cruise eBay...and no, a HH 135 isn't the same machine at all. Hobart came out swinging with the 140 and 180!
I'm probably going to go for the HH140 after having considered the HH135. I want something that is easy to get parts for first and foremost. Because stuff breaks.
Now here's a totally welding newbie question for all the advanced welders here: where exactly does one get steel to fabricate and practice with? Yesterday I noticed that the big orange building supply store did sell 26, 24, 22 gauge sheet metal but it also seemed really expensive for such the size of sheet.