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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

leaky valve cover gaskets?

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Old May 16, 2004 | 10:44 PM
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leaky valve cover gaskets?

'86 F-150 EFI 302

Engine has 8,000 miles on it. There is oil on top of the lip (where the bolts are) on both valve covers. Is this from leaking gaskets? There has been some oil (not a lot) getting on the exhaust manifolds and smelling. Any tips on putting new gaskets in? The gaskets seem to be smooshed out in some areas. Any other advice is appreciated.
 
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Old May 16, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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Sounds like it. Sometimes too, you may need to just tighten the bolts that hold the valve covers down. They will just come loose after a while.... You might as well change the gaskets and tighten things down again, then check after a while to see if you have any more leaks.

Good luck.
 
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Old May 16, 2004 | 11:23 PM
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I've been doing some searching here and elsewhere, and it seems that most people recommend rubber gaskets. I'll grab a pair tomorrow and see what comes of it. Hey, at least I've got something to do now.
 
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Old May 17, 2004 | 02:10 AM
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Not sure if these come stock on a 302, but one thing that worked on my 460 was using those load spreaders under the bolts. They are kinda spring-loaded deals that are about 4" long and thin, with a hole in the middle. You put them under the bolt (bolt through the hole) and it helps to spread the clamping force out over the valve cover.

Fixed my leaking problem...no more oily smell from the engine compartment, and I can run full synthetic in my engine without breaking the bank by adding a quart every week.

Dan Martin
1986 F350 Crewcab Dually, 460, C6.
 
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Old May 17, 2004 | 04:07 PM
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Another question: What kind of sealant should I use on the rubber gaskets? The guy at the store sold me a tube of 3M all-purpose weather strip/sealant. Do rubber gaskets need this sealant on both sides?
 
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Old May 17, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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Sometimes too, you may need to just tighten the bolts that hold the valve covers down.
I wish I would have checked that before I bought new gaskets. Get this, every single bolt holding both covers down were so loose that I could turn them out without the use of a wrench. I snugged them down and cleaned up the edges. Gonna see if it does the trick. I don't care to put new gaskets in if I don't have too.

How tight should I make the bolts? I snugged them with only a little pressure. Don't know how hard I can go.
 
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Old May 17, 2004 | 07:19 PM
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You should have them torqued ok now. My dad has a 87 302 EFI and he just had the valve cover gaskets done. I didn't want to do them so he sent them in to get done. It cost him just over $200 Canadian plus the parts. If you do to Ford they have a new type of valve cover gasket (at least I have never seen it!). It is a gasket made of metal. It's kinda cool and I guess it is supposed to last longer. They cost $20 per gasket which is a little bit much but worth it if they last longer. So, if you havent changed them yet and youhave to I would recommend the metal ones. Good luck!

-Matt
 
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Old May 17, 2004 | 11:53 PM
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The vc bolts are supposed to be torqued to 20-INCH pounds, which is just snug. If you have old covers, you can hammer flat the bolt holes, as they get dented in over time and can cause leaks. I just use the regular cork gaskets, but the $20 rubber ones are good, too. I used the hold-downs and hardware that came with my chrome valve covers, and no more leaky!
 
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Old May 18, 2004 | 08:21 AM
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I like the rubber ones. I just put a set on my 460. The cork ones can be over-tightened real easy because you can't see how much it's being squashed. I always put some high temp sealant on the VC side and just a dab of grease on the other, with a bit of lock tight on the threads so they won't back off because they are just snug anyway. Get a torque wrench and put 20 in. lbs. on something. That isn't very much.
I had to replace the VC gaskets on my 93 Probe GT (V6) once. They were 80.00 and I had to remove the intake!!!
C-
 
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