"no codes"?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 2
From: UT
Originally Posted by ShawnZ
they look very similar, except the instructions that came with the scanner were more detailed, like make sure all accessories are off and little stuff. I am thinking it must be the scanner, as soon as I get some time I will take the scanner back and get another, and it all else fails, I will take the truck to autozone.
I think it has to be either the scanner or the electrical system is screwed up, because the light in the scanner is not supposed to come on when the scanner is set to "hold" because it is not supposed to be greaded on that setting.
I think it has to be either the scanner or the electrical system is screwed up, because the light in the scanner is not supposed to come on when the scanner is set to "hold" because it is not supposed to be greaded on that setting.
Here's a hypothesis: Could steps 6 and 7 be listed backwards? I know when I run the self-tests with a voltmeter, the act of turning the key on is what causes the computer to enter the self-test mode (assuming everything is hooked up correctly). Like I said, I don't know scanners at all, so it may not make any difference.
Ultimately, I'm with Ken. If you are having trouble using a scanner to extract codes, try using a voltmeter. Then the scanner is completely out of the picture. If you don't have an analog voltmeter, go to Harbor Freight, Walmart, Kmart or whereever and buy the cheapest analog voltmeter you can find (I paid $3 for mine. It can't even measure voltage accurately. It outputs 30 V when I know it's only 12 V. but I can still count voltage pulses).
Hope you get it figured out.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 2
From: UT
Originally Posted by ShawnZ
no I dont have a meter, whats the difference between meter and scanner? how does a meter work?
The tests are the same with a scanner and a voltmeter. Only difference is in the device used to output the codes.
Description for performing the test with a voltmeter was in that page I previously posted. Same information can be had in any self-respecting repair manual, Ken00's tech info post at the top of the BII forum, and in a few other places on the web. Basically, you hook up a jumper wire between the self-test input and the signal return pin. Then hook up the voltmeter between the self-test output pin and battery+. Turn the key on and codes should come out.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 480
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
I went and bought a pocket electrical tester, without realising it didnt say voltometer on the package figuring it was the same thing, now reading through this no one says anything about electrical testers. will this work or must I take it back?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 480
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From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
http://actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store....8.htm&cart_id=
this is what I bought
being nothing of an electrical expert I cant be sure... but I believe it tests voltage.
this is what I bought
being nothing of an electrical expert I cant be sure... but I believe it tests voltage.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 2
From: UT
As long as the DC volt function is capable of measuring up to 15V, it will work perfectly. And, for $20, it better have that much functionality. The one I use is similar to this one from Harbor Freight listed at $8 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90926
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 480
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ -Gilbert & Univ.
at autozone it was only 15, and it has too many functions...
4 settings for dc
4 settings for ac
2 for dcma
2 for ohms
AA batterry tester
9V batt. tester
and this thumb adjuster thing
4 settings for dc
4 settings for ac
2 for dcma
2 for ohms
AA batterry tester
9V batt. tester
and this thumb adjuster thing
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
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From: UT
Each setting is just a different range. (examples I don't know what ranges are listed on the actron multimeter: 0-1 V, 0-10 V, 0-100, etc) Just choose a DCVolts range that is greater than 15 V. I expect the thumb adjuster is your "ohms adjust" that allows you to zero your resistance reading, when you're measuring resistance.
New User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
same problem.
Hi, I seem to be having the exact same problem. I have a code reader and have used it successfully before. Then a few days ago my battery started draining on its own. I replaced the battery and alternator and still have the same problem. I figure I have a short somewhere. I tried the scanner just to see and all i get is a solid light, no blinking like normal. Did u have any luck? Also anyone have a good way to find shorts. I'v been on this for a whole day already and cant locate it? thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
Welcome to FTE!!!
Put an ampmeter between the neg cable and the battery terminal, then start pulling fuses untill the drain stops. Do the power distribution box fues first if you have it. Once you determine the circuit(s) then you'll have to look/disconnect each component.
Put an ampmeter between the neg cable and the battery terminal, then start pulling fuses untill the drain stops. Do the power distribution box fues first if you have it. Once you determine the circuit(s) then you'll have to look/disconnect each component.
New User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
How much drain should their normally be. I get like .01-.02 Amps draw right now. The battery seems to be stable. If I disconnect the alternator the battery voltage will jump up around .09 volts and vise versa. I am not sure if thi is normal but i have tried 3 alternators and all have the same issue.
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